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WATER-LILIES 
AND  HOW  TO  GROW  THEM 


THE  GARDEN  LIBRARY 

Roses  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

by  Many  Experts 

Ferns  and  How  to  Grow  Them 

by  G.  A.  IVoolson 

Lawns  and  How  to  Make  Them 

by  Leonard  Bar  on 

Daffodils-Narcissus  and  How  to  Grow  Them 
by  A.  M.  Kir  by 


Plate  I.-WHERE  THE  WATER-LILY  GROWS 


The  subtle  charm  of  the  water  garden  lies  as  much  in  the  delicate  patchwork 
of  light  and  shade  as  in  the  wonderful  colourings  of  the  gorgeous  flowers  running 
from  dazzling  white  through  lemon,  to  pink  and  crimson  and  the  clearest  blue 


WATER-LILIES 

AND  HOW  TO  GROW  THEM 


IVith   Chapters  on   the  Proper  Making  of 
Ponds  and  the  Use  of  Accessory  Plants 


By 
HENRY  S.  CONARD  and  HENRI    HUS 


ILLUSTRATED 


w 


NEW  YORK 

Doubleday,  Page  &  Company 

1907 

LIBRAFIY. 

Didsion  of  Horticulturs, 
N.  C.  Dep't  of  Agriculture. 


Copyright.  1907,  by  Doubleday,  Page  &  Company 
Published,  October,  1907 


All  Rights  Reserved 

Including  that  of  Translation  into  Foreign  Languages. 

Including  the  Scandinavian 


PUBLISHERS'  NOTE 

Water-lilies  are  essentially  flowers  for 
the  man  or  woman  who  revels  in  magnificent 
colours,  for  the  hues  are  not  equalled  in 
variety  or  brilliancy  by  the  flowers  of  any 
other  plants.  Is  it  any  wonder  that  the 
water-lilies  continue  to  receive  a  constantly 
increasing  share  of  attention  from  horti- 
culturists in  all  parts  of  the  world  ? 

Within  recent  years,  so  much  has  been 
accomphshed  through  the  efforts  of  hybridis- 
ing and  hybridisers,  many  of  whom  in 
America  have  equalled  or  even  surpassed  the 
results  obtained  by  the  famous  French  and 
English  raisers,  to  whose  efforts,  it  is  true,  the 
modern  activity  is  largely  due.  But  with  the 
more  favourable  climatic  conditions  of  this 
country,  still  more  striking  productions  have 
been  placed  before  the  gardener.  There  are 
very  few  ponds  or  pools  that  cannot  be 
adapted  as  cultural  sites  for  the  water-lilies, 


160129 


VI  WATER-LILIES 

and  where  such  do  not  exist  the  possi- 
bihty  of  growing  some  of  these  most  gorgeous 
flowers  is  not  by  any  means  beyond  one's 
reach,  for  even  in  a  tub  of  very  moderate 
dimensions,  one  or  two  water-HHes  may  be 
easily  grown.  They  have  their  pecuHar  inter- 
ests, too,  in  the  fact  that  some  open  by  day 
while  others  are  night-bloomers;  some  are 
hardy,  while  others  are  tender.  And  it  is  in 
the  tender  night-bloomers  that  by  far  the  most 
resplendent  combinations  of  colours  are  found. 

In  the  following  chapters,  an  effort  has  been 
made  to  place  before  the  reader  in  simple  terms 
the  relative  values  of  the  different  varieties  in 
the  various  groups,  so  that  he  can  make  the 
choice  of  the  kinds  that  will  suit  his  conditions 
without  having  to  indulge  in  time-consuming 
and  costly  experiments.  The  essential  facts 
of  water-lily  culture  are  told  in  simple  terms, 
together  with  principles  of  pond  construction 
and  management. 

The  more  cultural  chapters  of  the  book 
(Chapters  ii.,  iii.,  iv.,  v.,  vi.,  x.,  xii.,  xiii.,  and 
xiv.)    have    been   supplied    chiefly    by   Mr. 


PUBLISHERS      NOTE  vil 

Henri  Hus,  with  the  cooperation  of  the 
veteran  cultivator,  Mr.  James  Gurney,  whose 
association  with  water-Hly  growing  dates  back 
to  the  occasion  when  the  giant  Victoria  regia 
first  opened  its  flowers  in  cultivation.  Mr. 
Gurney  is  a  pioneer  in  water-lily  culture  and 
his  work  at  the  Missouri  Botanical  Garden, 
and  later  at  Tower  Grove  Park,  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  is  well  known. 

The  remaining  chapters  (Chapters  i.,  vii., 
viii.,  ix.,  and  xi.),  deahng  with  the  relative 
merits  of  the  different  varieties  offered  in  the 
trade,  are  chiefly  by  Professor  Henry  S. 
Conard,  who  has  made  a  special  study  of  the 
entire  family;  he  is  the  author  of  a  monograph 
on  the  genus  Nymphaea,  published  by  the 
Carnegie  Institution,  and  is  perfectly  famihar 
with  the  work  of  the  hybridists,  having 
watched  the  development  of  many  of  the 
crosses  made  by  Mr.  Tricker  and  others. 

The  hsts  of  water-lilies  for  special  purposes 
given  in  Chapter  xv.  are  also  chiefly  Pro- 
fessor Conard's,  into  which  have  been  em- 
bodied a  few  suggestions  made  by  Mr.  Gurney. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.     Where  Water  Gardens  Can  Be  Made  .  3^ 
11.     Economical  Pond  Construction    .          .21 

III.  Soils  and  Planting  Out 41 

IV.  Wintering  and  Propagating     ....  53 
V.     Seed  Saving  and  Starting 67 

VI.     Raising  New  Varieties 75 

VII.     The  Hardy  Water-lilies       89 

VIII.     The  Tender  Day  Blooming  Water-lilies  107 

IX.     The  Night  Blooming  Water-Hlies     .     .  125 

X.     Growing  the  Giant  Victorias        .     .     .  141 
XI.     Lotuses,  Water  Hyacinths  and  Other 

Choice  Aquatics 157  "* 

XII.     Water  Gardens  Under  Glass    ....  173 

XIII.  Enemies  and  Friends 181 

XIV.  Pond  Surroundings,   Windbreaks,  and 

Accessory  Plants 191 

XV.     Water-lilies  for  Special  Purposes      .     .  213 

Index 223 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE 

I.     Where  the  Water-lily  Grows  (O.  Ames) 

Frontispiece 

FACING   PAGE 

II.     The  Smallest  Practical  Water-lily  Pond 

(E.  E.  Trumbull)    ....        4 

III.  Beer  Vats   and   Zinc   Tanks   as    Pond 

Substitutes      .....        5 

IV.  Concrete  Construction  for  Small  Tanks 

{B.  G.  Foster)         .         .         .         .22 

V.     Pools  on  a  Hillside  Garden  (£.  T.  Har- 
vey)       ......     23 

VI.     A  Water-lily  Pond  Before  Planting  (H. 

Hus) 26 

VII.     Formal  Concrete  Pool  for  Victorias  and 

Nymphaeas  {H.  Hus)      .  .         -27 

VIII.     Artistic    Designs    in    Artificial     Ponds 

(if.  Troth  and  H.  C.  Tihhetts)  .     34 

IX.     How  to  Treat  a  Concrete  Edge  {H.  Troth)     3  5 
xi 


Xll  WATER-LILIES 


FACING  PAGE 


X.     Harmonies  with  the  Locations   {H.  C. 

Tihhetts  and  A .  J.  McNally)   .         .     46 

XI.     Pools  with  Open  Surroundings  {H.  Troth)     47 

XII.     An  Interesting  Study  in  Mechanics  {H. 

S.  Conard)      .         .         .         .         .84 

XIII.  A  Pond  in  a  City  Garden  {H.  Hus)      .     85 

XIV.  Some  of  the  Best  Hardy  Kinds— I  (Z)reer)     92 

XV.     Some  of  the  Best  Hardy  Kinds— II  {N. 

R.  Graves)      .         .         .         .         -93 

XVI.     Water-Hlies  Everyone  Should  Know — I 

(Dreer)  .         .         .         .         .96 

XVIL     Water-lilies  Everyone  Should  Know — II 

(Dreer)  .....     97 

XVIII.     Water-lilies  Everyone  Should  Know — III 

(Dreer)  .         .         .         .         .112 

XIX.     Water-lilies  Everyone  Should  Know — IV 

(Dreer) 113 

XX.     The  Flower-bud  of  a  Victoria  (L.  Barron)  130 

XXI.     A  Sub-tropical  Water  Garden  (il.  ^W5)  131 

XXII.     The  Giant  Victoria  at  St.  Louis  (ff.  ilM5)  142 


ILLUSTRATIONS  Xlll 


FACING   PAGE 


XXIII.  Victoria  Pond  before  Planting  (H.Hus)    143 

XXIV.  The  Picturesque  Indian  Lotus  (H.  S. 

Conard)  .         .         .         .         .160 

XXV.     The  Beautiful,  but  Overwhelming  Water 

Hyacinth  {H.  Hus)         .         .         .161 

XXVI.     An  Aquatic  Garden  under  Glass  (H.  E. 

Angell)  .....    176 

XXVII.     The  Water  Poppy  with  its  Brilliant  Yel- 
low Flowers  (H.  Troth)  .         -177 

XXVIII.     The    Easiest    Margin   Plantings    (Wm. 

Macjarlane  .         .    196 

XXIX.     Plants  that  Lend  Variety  to   the    Pool 

{H.  E.  Angell)        .         .         .         .197 

XXX.     The  Native  Water-clover  (H.  Troth)      .    204 

XXXI.     Breaking  the  Flat  Outline  (H.  Hus)     .    205 


Where  Water  Gardens  Can  Be  Made 


WATER-LILIES 

CHAPTER  I 

Where  Water  Gardens  Can  Be  Made 

A  POND  of  water-lilies  is  a  possibility  for 
anyone  who  can  give  two  square  feet  of  water 
surface  in  a  sunny  spot,  and  it  should  be  near 
at  hand  so  that  you  can  easily  see  the  flowers 
when  they  are  at  their  best.  All  the  hardy 
water-Hlies  must  be  enjoyed  in  the  morning  or 
early  afternoon;  for  the  flowers  close  at 
specific  times  for  each  kind,  varying  from 
noon  to  four,  or  at  the  latest  five,  o'clock. 
The  tender  kinds  fall  within  two  distinct 
classes,  there  being  both  day  bloomers  and 
night  bloomers. 

Half  a  barrel  will  make  a  thoroughly 
practical  "lily-pond"  for  the  smallest  gar- 
den! Cut  this  to  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches, 
fill  two-thirds  with  a  rich,  heavy  soil,  and  sink 
3 

D.  K  HILL  LIBRARY 
North  Carolina  State  Colhae 


4  WATER-LILIES 

SO  that  the  bottom  is  three  inches  below  the 
level  of  the  ground,  for  though  the  leaves  and 
flowers  love  sunshine,  the  black  ooze  in  which 
the  roots  naturally  live  is  always  cool. 

But  one  need  not  stop  here.  Only  space 
and  inclination  limit  the  number  of  barrels 
that  may  be  utilised  for  this  purpose.  Arrange 
them  so  that  the  whole  will  form  a  figure  of 
irregular  outhne  and  leave  some  space  be- 
tween the  individual  barrels.  These  spaces, 
perhaps  a  foot  to  eighteen  inches  wide,  ofl^er 
situations  well  suited  to  the  needs  of  a  variety 
of  water-loving  plants,  such  as  forget-me- 
nots,  Lysimachia  and  others,  which  will  form 
a  framework  to  set  off  the  beauties  of  the 
water-lilies. 

Not  all  the  barrels  need  contain  water- 
lilies,  however.  One  or  two  may  be  devoted 
to  other  plants  such  as  water  hyacinths,  water 
poppies  and  the  like,  while  taller  plants,  like 
Cyperus  Papyrus  and  nelumbiums  tend  to 
relieve  the  flatness  necessarily  incident  to  a 
water  garden.  The  latter,  however,  grow 
quite  tall  and  can  be  used  most  effectively  in 


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WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE  MADE         5 

large   gardens;    and   they  also  look    best  in 
masses, 

A    GARDEN    IN    A   TUB 

A  very  satisfactory  water  garden  was  half 
a  kerosene  barrel,  sunk  in  the  ground  at  the 
southwest  corner  of  a  house,  where  a  rain 
pipe  from  the  roof  emptied  into  it.  Here 
the  water  hyacinth  {Eichhornia  speciosa) 
grew  and  flowered,  to  the  delight  of  all  be- 
holders. The  tub  was  nearly  full  of  earth 
in  which  the  plants  anchored  themselves  by 
their  roots  and  were  able  to  resist  the  tre- 
mendous floods  of  water  from  the  roof.  All 
through  the  summer  there  was  a  succession 
of  spikes  of  big  azure  flowers,  each  one  with 
a  yellow  eye-spot;  and  the  glossy,  heart- 
shaped  leaves,  with  their  stout,  spongy 
petioles,  were  themselves  an  ornament  and  a 
curiosity.  More  than  a  tubful  of  the  plants 
was  thinned  out  during  the  season.  The 
fault  of  this  garden,  aside  from  its  smallness, 
was  the  irregularity  and  violence  of  the  water 
supply.     No  other  plant,  except  perhaps   a 


0  WATER-LILIES 

cattail  (Typha),  could  have  stood  the  strain. 
A  kerosene  barrel  sawed  in  half  will  furnish 
two  tubs,  each  big  enough  for  one  lily. 
The  tubs  should  be  well  washed  out  and 
soaked  for  some  time  in  water,  in  order  to 
remove  as  much  as  possible  of  the  oil  and  the 
glue  which  is  put  on  to  render  the  vessel 
tight.  Three  or  four  days  to  a  week  will 
suffice  for  this. 

The  difference  between  a  barrel  and  a 
brewer's  hogshead  is  but  one  of  degree. 
The  hogshead  is  about  six  feet  in  diameter, 
and  may  be  bought  for  about  five  dollars. 
This  modest  expenditure  makes  us  the  proud 
possessors  of  two  ponds,  each  of  which  may 
harbour  as  many  as  five  or  six  water-Hly 
plants.  These  two  ponds  are,  of  course, 
formed  from  the  ends  of  the  hogshead,  sawed 
off  to  a  depth  of  eighteen  inches.  Having 
placed  the  larger  ponds  in  position,  the 
smaller  barrel  ends  can  be  arranged  in 
respect  to  them.  The  nelumbium  and  Papy- 
rus barrels  must  find  a  place  at  the  back,  and 
where  they  will  not  prevent  the  direct  sun- 


WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE  MADE        7 

light  from  reaching  the  water-liHes.  Taller 
growing  terrestrial  plants  with  bold  various- 
coloured  fohage,  such  as  certain  varieties  of 
castor  bean  and  cannas,  will  form  an  excellent 
background  for  the  whole. 

One  great  advantage  of  the  barrels  for 
making  a  water  garden  is  that  they  are  not 
only  successful  with  hardy  nymphaeas,  but 
are  especially  well  adapted  to  the  require- 
ments of  the  tender  kinds,  because  the  water, 
being  limited  to  a  small  receptacle,  attains  a 
higher  temperature  from  the  sun  heat. 
Danger  of  the  water  becoming  stagnant  is 
ehminated  when  the  barrels  are  flushed  once 
a  week  with  the  garden  hose,  and  some 
arrangement  should  be  made  for  this. 

The  successful  artificial  water  garden  will 
conform  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  conditions 
under  which  Nature  herself  constructs  lagoons 
and  pools.  It  is  surely  common  sense  that 
it  be  placed  at  the  foot  of  a  terrace,  not  on 
top;  also,  let  the  ground  slope  down  to  it 
on  all  sides,  if  possible. 

If  it  is  to  stand  in  a  broad,  sloping  plain, 


8  WATER-LILIES 

grade  down  the  upper  side  as  much  as  is 
necessary  to  bring  the  lower  side  about  on 
the  natural  level  of  the  ground. 

It  is  essentially  artificial  to  find  anything 
like  a  long  dam  or  terrace  descending  from 
the  margin  of  a  pond. 

OUTLINES    IN    RELATION   TO    SIZE 

It  does  not  offend  if  the  small  tank  takes 
some  conventional  shape.  A  sunken  tub  is 
essentially  round,  and  a  wooden  or  iron  box 
will  unavoidably  be  square-cornered.  A 
brick  or  concrete  construction,  if  not  over 
ten  feet  long,  may  be  rectangular.  But  if 
possible  avoid  geometry  in  the  garden.  A 
bald  circle  with  a  gaping  ring  of  cement  be- 
tween the  sod  and  the  water  is  not  a  thing  of 
beauty,  though  ponds  of  geometrical  figure 
edged  with  stone  coping  are  effective  in  for- 
mal  gardens. 

Possibly  the  best  of  all  is  a  narrow,  curving 
pool,  like  the  bed  of  some  slow  stream.  Let 
it  widen  out  here  and  there  into  broad,  open 


WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE  MADE        9 

Stretches  if  you  wish.  At  the  ends,  also,  or  in 
shallow  pockets  on  the  side,  the  water  may 
give  place  to  a  bog  garden.  On  the  north 
side  a  thicket  of  trees  and  shrubs  may  come 
out  to  the  water's  edge.  But  keep  the  south 
side  clear,  so  as  to  admit  every  available  ray 
from  the  sun. 

TREATMENT   OF   MARGINS 

It  is  in  the  treatment  of  the  margin  that 
we  make  or  mar  a  pond's  natural  beauty. 
There  is  no  one  way  in  which  native  waters 
always  meet  the  land,  but  there  are  some 
ways  in  which  they  never  do.  Nature  never 
made  broad  borders  of  concrete  or  brick  or 
hewn  stone.  Therefore  avoid  these  in  mak- 
ing a  water  garden.  Rough  stone  walls  are 
permissible  at  inlet  and  outlet  only  and  even 
here  they  may  be  avoided  if  clayey  soil  can 
be  had,  provided  the  bank  can  be  made 
proof  against  crawfish,  which  is  most  im- 
portant. And  in  place  of  stones  there  will 
spring   up   beds   of  moisture-loving  mosses, 


10  WATER-LILIES 

liverworts,  and  smooth  sheets  of  Pellaea, 
whose  delicate  fruit-stalks  shoot  up  in  the 
first  warm  days  of  spring. 

Beside  the  pond  itself  a  path  of  gravel 
will  enable  us  to  come  close  to  the  water's 
edge.  Now  we  must  bend  away  from  the 
water  and  around  the  bog  garden;  now 
we  cross  it  on  a  stone  causeway  or  rustic 
bridge. 

All  around  the  grass  and  flowers  run  right 
out  to  the  water's  edge.  This  is  the  essential 
point,  and  perfectly  easy  to  attain.  The 
water-tight  construction  of  the  bottom  of  the 
pond  only  needs  to  come  up  to  the  height  of 
the  desired  water  level.  From  this  point  a 
grassy  bank  may  be  raised  as  steep  and  high 
as  one  desires.  Four  to  six  inches  above 
mean  water  level  is  high  enough.  We  can 
hide  the  junction  of  land  and  water  com- 
pletely by  means  of  water-clover  (Marsiha). 
This  curious  fern-plant,  with  leaves  like  a 
four-leaved  clover,  grows  equally  well  in  the 
wet  edge  of  the  sod  or  in  the  pond  to  a 
depth    of  eighteen    inches.     In    the    former 


WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE  MADE      II 

situation  the  leaves  stand  up  three  or  four 
inches,  in  the  latter  they  float. 

THE    POND    BED 

The  bed  of  the  pond  may  be  variously 
made.  It  must  be  water-tight,  not  liable  to 
injury  by  frost,  and  of  a  suitable  size  and 
depth.  We  know  one  little  garden  which  was 
made  by  simply  scooping  out  the  earth  like 
the  bowl  of  a  spoon  and  laying  in  a  thick  coat 
of  cement  —  no  brick,  no  stone.  Here  grew 
the  big  red  Devon  water-lily  {N ymphcea 
Devontensis),  Sturtevant's  massive  pink 
(N ymphcea  Sturtevantii),  both  tender;  the 
white  night  lotus  (Nymphcra  Lotus),  and 
several  hardy  varieties,  and  all  with  the  great- 
est luxuriance.  But,  alas,  one  hard  winter 
frost  cracked  the  cement,  the  water  ran  out 
and  all  was  lost.  But,  then,  no  artificial 
pond  can  last  indefinitely  without  repairs. 

Another  water  garden  amateur  had  a  gor- 
geous show  of  water  hyacinths,  big  yellow 
water    poppies,   plumes    of    parrot-feathers, 


12  WATER-LILIES 

and  water-lilies  in  pink,  yellow  and  white. 
This  tank  was  built  of  a  single  course  of  brick 
carefully  laid  in  cement.  The  place  was 
excavated  to  a  depth  of  sixteen  inches,  and 
the  bottom  and  walls  were  covered  with  a 
coat  of  the  best  Portland  cement.  Its 
dimensions  were  four  and  a  half  by  six  and  a 
half  feet.  It  had  a  partition  near  one  end 
coming  up  nearly  to  the  water  level.  The 
larger  part  contained  rich  earth  to  a  depth  of 
about  six  inches  for  water-lilies  and  lotus,  the 
smaller  was  filled  with  earth  and  served  for  bog 
plants.    This,  however,  is  not  recommended. 

The  safest  construction,  however,  is  that 
recommended  by  Mr.  Tricker  as  follows: 
"  Dig  down  two  feet  six  inches  and  lay  a  wall 
of  brick  eight  inches  thick  below,  tapering  (if 
desired)  to  four  inches  at  the  top.  The 
bottom  is  packed  with  broken  stone,  and  this 
and  the  walls  are  heavily  coated  with  the  best 
cement.'' 

In  winter  the  margins  should  be  protected 
with  litter  or  leaves.  Indeed,  it  is  a  good 
thing  to  draw  off  all  the  water  and  pack  the 


WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE  MADE     1 3 

tank  tightly  with  dead  leaves,  piHng  them 
several  inches  deep  over  the  whole.  Hardy 
plants  will  survive  so  long  as  the  water  does 
not  freeze  to  the   bottom. 

As  to  the  depth  of  the  pool;  twelve  to  eigh- 
teen inches  is  all  that  is  absolutely  necessary 
for  water-lilies,  and  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
will  do  for  Victoria.  The  additional  depth  for 
Victoria  is  best  arranged  by  making  a  pit  in 
the  bottom  of  the  pond  in  which  to  place  its 
tub.  Thus  room  is  given  for  the  develop- 
ment of  its  gigantic  leaves  and  flowers  without 
greatly  increasing  either  the  work  of  excava- 
tion or  the  volume  of  water  required.  It  is 
very  desirable  to  have  the  water  shallow 
enough  for  the  gardener  to  walk  through  it 
with  hip  boots,  though  with  ponds  of  twelve 
feet  width,  or  less,  a  plank  can  be  laid  across 
and  access  to  the  plants  is  easy. 

UTILIZING   NATURAL    SPRINGS 

It  is  doubtful  whether  it  is  easier  to  build 
a  pond  in  a  natural  waterway,  or  to  make 


14  WATER-LILIES 

it  from  the  foundation  up.  Unless  the 
natural  water  course  can  be  easily  diverted 
it  will  usually  be  better  not  to  use  it.  For 
every  stream  at  a  distance  of  a  hundred  feet  or 
more  from  its  spring  head  is  subject  to  flood- 
ing from  heavy  rains. 

Should  a  violent  current  sweep  over  and 
among  our  aquatics  it  would  destroy  all  the 
tender  plants,  break  down  our  lotus,  papyrus, 
and  the  like,  and  cover  everything  around 
with  a  thick  layer  of  mud,  and  the  season's 
hopes  would  be  gone.  We  shall  do  best, 
therefore,  to  secure  a  more  even  supply  of 
water.  A  good  spring  will  suffice  for  any- 
thing except  Victoria  and  the  tender  water- 
HHes.  Indeed,  south  of  Philadelphia,  spring 
water  will  materially  help  many  of  the  hardy 
nymphaeas  to  endure  the  summer  heat.  Lack- 
ing a  spring,  water  may  be  drawn  by  a  pipe 
or  sluiceway  from  any  near-by  stream.  The 
sluice  will  of  course  be  so  arranged  by  gates 
or  by  position  of  intake,  as  to  avoid  the 
flooding  of  the  pond  in  case  of  freshets.  But, 
after  all,  the  easiest  plan  is  to  draw  the  water 


WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE  MADE  1 5 

from  a  pipe  with  a  spigot.  It  is  not  necessary 
to  maintain  a  continuous  flow  and  change 
of  water.  Just  as  a  balanced  aquarium  will 
go  for  weeks  or  months  without  attention, 
so  it  is  with  the  pond.  It  is  only  requisite  to 
replace  the  water  lost  by  evaporation  and 
leakage. 

WATER   LOSS    BY    EVAPORATION 

From  a  surface  of  sixteen  square  feet,  about 
a  bucketful  of  water  escapes  every  day  by 
evaporation  and  transpiration  of  the  plants. 
Stagnation  is  prevented  by  having  a  few 
fish  and  some  submerged  plants  like  Cabomba 
or  Myriophyllum.  It  is  therefore  very  easy 
to  care  for  a  garden  up  to  six  by  twelve  feet, 
even  with  only  a  bucket  to  supply  water. 
On  the  other  hand,  a  large  pond  fed  by  a 
natural  stream  will  often  be  in  danger  from 
floods.  Unless  the  stream  be  very  small  in 
proportion  to  the  lake  it  will  be  necessary  to 
have  means  of  diverting  it  into  a  culvert  or 
sluice  on  occasion. 


l6  WATER-LILIES 

Floating  parts  of  plants  have  very  remark- 
able powers  of  accommodation  to  the  depth 
of  the  water.  Water-lily  leaves  may  be  en- 
tirely submerged  in  the  evening,  and  by  next 
morning  their  stalks  will  have  grown  just 
enough  to  spread  them  on  the  surface  again. 
But  on  all  considerations,  it  is  desirable  that 
the  water  level  should  not  vary  more  than 
four  inches  at  the  most;  even  this  amount 
may  bring  into  view  ugly  strips  of  mud  or 
masonry.  An  outlet  of  ample  size  is  as  neces- 
sary as  an  inlet  for  the  regulation  of  the  water 
supply.  Small  ponds  on  level  or  gently  slop- 
ing ground  may  be  allowed  to  overflow  their 
sodded  margins.  If  fed  by  a  continuous 
open  stream,  it  may  be  most  artistically  led 
away  in  a  similar  manner,  either  directly,  or 
by  a  waterfall,  or  through  a  bog  garden. 

THE    BOG   GARDEN 

The  bog  garden  consists  merely  of  very 
wet  ground  in  which  a  host  of  interesting 
plants  flourish.     It  must,  of  course,  be  beside 


WHERE  WATER  GARDENS  CAN  BE    MADE  1/ 

a  pond  or  along  a  stream.  In  spring  the 
brown  woolly  fronds  of  cinnamon  fern  will 
first  show  themselves,  uncoiling  as  they  rise. 
The  swamp  rose-mallow  {Hibiscus  mos- 
cheiitos)  will  give  a  wealth  of  great  white 
or  pink  flowers  in  mid-summer.  In  autumn 
blue  mists  of  asters  or  a  yellow  glow  of  core- 
opsis and  dazzling  shafts  of  cardinal  flower 
(Lobelia  cardinalis)  will  brighten  the  spot. 

HANDLING    CUT   FLOWERS 

Water-lilies  do  well  as  cut  flowers  if  they 
are  properly  handled.  The  flower  selected 
for  cutting  must  be  newly  opened  or  just 
about  to  open.  In  nature  the  life  of  each 
bloom  is  limited  to  three  or  four  days,  but 
in  the  house  it  may  keep  a  day  or  two  longer. 
Occasionally  death  seems  to  overtake  the 
motor  centres  while  the  flower  is  still  open, 
and  then  it  remains  several  days  before  the 
petals  wither.  The  new  flower  may  be  recog- 
nised by  these  features:  (i)  The  stamens 
spread  apart  at   the    centre    of  the    flower. 


1 8  WATER-LILIES 

leaving  a  free  passage  down  to  the  stigma; 

(2)  the   anthers   are  plump  and  round  and 
have    not   yet    begun    to    shed    any    pollen; 

(3)  the  basin-Hke  stigma  is  filled  with  liquid 
excreted  from  its  surface. 

The  flower  stalk  is  scarcely  able  to  supply 
the  petals  with  water;  the  cut  flower  should 
be  floated  in  a  dish  or,  if  placed  in  a  vase, 
the  vase  should  be  full  to  the  brim  with  water, 
the  flower  projecting  as  little  as  possible. 
When  carried  from  the  sunny  garden  into  the 
house  the  flower  is  likely  to  close,  on  account 
of  the  diminished  light,  but  it  will  open  again 
next  morning  as  well  as  if  it  were  outside. 


Economical  Pond  Construction 


CHAPTER  II 
Economical  Pond  Construction 

Ponds  built  entirely  of  brickwork  or  con- 
crete offer  certain  serious  objections.  In  the 
first  place,  their  banks  cannot  be  planted. 
Besides,  where  the  winters  are  very  cold, 
projecting  brick  or  concrete  walls  must  be 
protected,  and  it  is  only  where  the  ponds 
form  part  of  a  formal  plan,  that  the  grey 
masonry  edges,  projecting  half  a  foot  or  more 
above  the  ground,  are  appropriate.  As  a 
general  rule,  a  combination  of  concrete  and 
puddling  is  to  be  preferred. 

For  a  brick  and  cement  pond,  excavate  to 
a  depth  of  two  and  one-half  feet.  The  sides 
are  given  a  circular  slope,  which  forms  an 
angle  of  about  45°  with  the  perpendicular. 
After  the  floor  has  been  thoroughly  levelled, 
bricks  are  laid  and  cemented  into  place. 
Then  the  walls  are  built  in  the  same  way. 


22  WATER-LILIES 

They  must  reach  to  within  one  foot  from  the 
bottom.  The  whole  is  finally  covered  with 
a  one-half-inch  finishing  coat  of  cement. 

The  slope  above  the  brick  wall  must  now 
be  covered  with  puddled  clay,  thoroughly 
pounded  into  place,  allowing  the  clay  gener- 
ously to  overlap  the  cement.  It  is  not  neces- 
sary for  the  puddled  clay  closely  to  follow 
the  outlines  of  the  pond;  for  this  combina- 
tion of  brickwork  and  clay  allows  of  a  planting 
of  the  edges  of  the  pond  and  some  plants 
demand  more  space  than  others,  and  some 
even  must  be  allowed  to  grow  out  at  will  if 
they  are  to  look  acceptable.  This  is  true  for 
the  majority  of  plants  used  in  the  water 
garden,  one  great  charm  of  which  lies  in  the 
unforced  contour  lines.  When  finished,  the 
pond  will  be  about  two  feet  three  inches  deep. 

A  water  supply  must  now  be  arranged. 
This  can  come  from  a  faucet,  which  is  a  good 
deal  better  than  a  fountain,  since  a  continual 
spray  is  not  good  for  water-lilies  and  has  a  ten- 
dency to  give  them  a  bedraggled  appearance. 

A    low    fence,    constructed    of  perforated  ^ 


In   this  tank  the  water-lilies  bloom  almost  continuously.    Gladioli,  nasturtiums 
and  hollyhocks  are  planted  nearby 


The  tank  is  8  x  4  ft.  and  was  made  of  concrete.      It  cost  $11.28  all  told 
{For  details  see  page  29) 

Plate  IV.— CONCRETE  CONSTRUCTION  FOR  SMALL  TANKS 


ECONOMICAL  POND  CONSTRUCTION         23 

pipes  and  connected  with  the  water  system, 
may  surround  the  pond.  This  will  very 
effectually  flush  the  pond,  but  is  not  necessary 
since  a  single  faucet  through  which  the  water 
can  be  turned  on  from  time  to  time  is  amply 
sufficient  to  remove  any  scum  which  may 
accumulate  on  the  surface  of  the  pond.  Of 
course  an  overflow,  connected  with  a  drain 
or  silt-pit,  must  be  provided.  This  should 
be  placed  in  position  before  the  laying  of  the 
foundation  is  begun.  A  narrow  drain  pipe 
will  be  sufficient  for  all  requirements. 

The  cost  of  construction  of  a  lo  x  24  ft. 
pond  of  the  above  character  is : 

LABOUR 

Excavating,  i  man,  i  day $  2.00 

Masons,  2  men,  2  days 24.00 

MATERIAL 

Brick  and  cement $20.00 

Clay,  piping,  etc •     ^-QQ 

Total $48.00 

Larger  ponds  are  arranged  on  the  same 
principle  and  their  cost  is  greater  in 
proportion. 


24  WATER-LILIES 

Ponds  entirely  made  of  concrete  are 
adapted  to  formal  gardens  only.  Their 
construction  on  a  large  scale  had  best  be  left 
to  contractors  who  make  a  specialty  of  this 
sort  of  work.  At  the  present  time,  granitoid 
would  most  probably  be  the  material  selected, 
reinforced,  in  the  case  of  large  ponds,  with 
steel  rods.  The  cost  of  construction  of  a 
circular  pond  of  this  nature  and  about  twenty 
feet  in  diameter,  would  be  fcoo;  that  of  one 
thirty  feet  in  diameter,  about  $^S^'  ^^^^ 
figure  includes  all  labour,  but  makes  no 
provision  for  a  heating  arrangement  which, 
according  to  its  nature,  would  cost  from 
^150  to  ^300. 

Should  one  wish  to  do  all  the  work  oneself, 
or  perhaps  engage  unskilled  labour,  the 
following  style  of  pond  can  advantageously 
be  adopted.  Having  decided  upon  the  size 
and  location  of  the  pond,  mark  the  outline 
and  proceed  with  the  excavation;  an  area  of 
about  240  square  feet  to  a  depth  of  three  and 
one-half  feet  can  be  accomplished  by  one  man 
in  one  day.     Give  the  sides  a  slope  of  60°. 


ECONOMICAL  POND  CONSTRUCTION         25 

After  the  earth  has  been  removed  and  the 
bottom  levelled,  bring  in  sufficient  cinders  to 
make  a  layer  six  inches  thick,  covering  w^ith 
a  layer  of  sifted  cinders  about  one  inch  thick. 
Cinders  are  also  banked  against  the  sides  to 
the  height  of  eighteen  inches.  These  cinders 
must  be  rammed  and  rolled  till  the  surface  is 
as  smooth  as  possible.  Then  put  on  top  of 
this  a  layer  of  granitoid  from  three  to  four 
inches  thick.  It  may  be  prepared  by  mixing 
one  part  of  Portland  cement  and  three  parts 
of  finely  crushed  granite.  This  must  be 
finished  off  as  smooth  as  possible.  The 
sides  are  to  be  formed  with  the  aid  of  a  v^ooden 
mould  such  as  is  described  subsequently. 
Afterwards  cover  the  whole  with  a  one-half 
inch  finishing  coat  composed  of  equal  parts  of 
Portland  cement  and  granitoid  siftings.  The 
sides,  where  not  covered  by  granitoid,  are 
puddled  with  clay  in  the  way  just  indicated. 
The  actual  process  of  puddling  is  described 
in  detail  on  page  32. 

A  pond  constructed  in  this  manner  is  per- 
haps less  costly  than  any  other  but  a  puddled 


26  WATER-LILIES 

pond.     For  a  pond  lo  x  24  ft.  the  cost  would 
be  about  as  follows: 

LABOUR 

Excavating,  i  man,  i  day $  2.00 

Mixing  granitoid,  sifting   cinders,  puddling,  etc., 

I  man,  i  day 2.00 

MATERIAL 

Cement  and  granite,  also  clay 30.00 

Total ^4.00 

A  10  X  24  ft.  pond  is  of  course,  quite  big, 
and  if  one  is  satisfied  with  something  on  a 
smaller  scale,  say  8x4  ft.,  the  cost  is  reduced 
considerably. 

HOME    CONCRETE    CONSTRUCTION 

In  Country  Life  in  America  Mr.  B.  G. 
Foster  gives  the  following  account  of  a  small 
tank  of  concrete  construction: 

"With  the  assistance  of  a  workman  who 
had  some  knowledge  of  mixing  concrete,  I 
constructed  a  tank,  the  area  of  which  at  the 
top  is  about  four  by  eight  feet.     The  tank  is 


ECONOMICAL  POND  CONSTRUCTION         27 

three  feet  deep,  and  the  walls,  six  inches  thick, 
incline  inward  at  a  slight  angle.  The  bottom 
is  four  inches  thick,  and  is,  like  the  walls, 
constructed  of  broken  stone,  sand  and  Port- 
land cement,  the  whole  having  a  lining  of 
cement  and  sand. 

"It  being  the  first  of  October  before  the 
tank  was  finished,  it  was  allowed  to  stand 
over  winter,  a  cover  being  placed  over  it  to 
prevent  the  accumulation  of  water.  In  early 
spring,  the  bottom  was  partitioned  by  boards 
into  four  compartments,  one  foot  in  depth, 
which  were  filled  with  a  rich  mixture  of  well- 
rotted  manure  and  good  soil.  In  each  com- 
partment a  Hly  root  was  set,  and  afterward 
the  earth  was  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of 
sand.  The  tank  was  then  carefully  filled 
with  water  from  the  well.  But  one  filling  was 
necessary  and  the  water  has  never  been 
changed  except  by  rain  and  evaporation.  A 
few  goldfish  were  introduced  to  prevent  the 
breeding  of  mosquitoes  and  other  obnoxious 
insects 

"While   awaiting  developments   I   cleared 


28  WATER-LILIES 

away  the  accumulated  dirt,  sodded  the  mar- 
gins around  the  garden,  and  permitted  the 
ladies  of  the  household  to  plant  gladioli, 
nasturtiums  and  the  like  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, while  a  cluster  of  hollyhocks  at  one  end 
served  further  to  break  the  monotony.  The 
first  lily  opened  fifty-eight  days  after  setting 
out  the  plants,  and  from  that  time  the  plants 
were  in  almost  continual  bloom  until  late  in 
the  autumn,  as  many  as  twelve  blossoms 
being  open  at  one  time. 

"The  mould  used  in  forming  the  tank  was 
made  of  waste  lumber  and  consisted  of  four 
parts:  a  lower  bottom-forming  frame,  a  core 
or  inside  box,  an  outside  casing  or  box,  and  a 
coping-forming  frame.  The  hole  having  been 
dug  slightly  larger  than  the  finished  basin 
was  to  be,  the  bottom  frame  (A)  was  first 
placed  therein.  This  frame,  formed  of  old 
2x4  scantlings  arranged  on  edge,  had  inside 
dimensions  equal  to  the  outside  dimensions 
of  the  bottom  of  the  tank,  and  after  having 
been  placed  in  position,  it  was  filled  level  with 
concrete,     thoroughly    tamped     or     packed, 


ECONOMICAL  POND  CONSTRUCTION         29 

forming  the  tank  bottom.  The  side-walls 
were  then  moulded  by  means  of  the  outer 
tapered  box  (B)  and  an  inner  correspondingly 
shaped  box  (C),  the  two  boxes  being  con- 
structed of  rough  boards  joined  respectively 


Here  is  a  section  of  the  concrete  tank  showing  method  of  construction. 
(References  in  text.) 

on  their  outer  and  inner  sides  by  upright 
cleats  (D).  These  boxes  had  their  walls 
spaced  apart  a  distance  equal  to  the  thick- 
ness of  the  walls  to  be  formed,  and  were 
placed  in  position  as  soon  as  the  bottom  frame 
had    been    filled.     They    were    fastened    to- 


30  WATER-LILIES 

gether  at  the  top  and  properly  braced  by  strips 
(E)  to  prevent  their  springing  under  pressure, 
after  which  the  space  between  them  was 
filled  with  concrete,  thoroughly  packed.  As 
soon  as  the  material  had  sufficiently  set,  the 
inner  box  or  core  (C),  and  the  top  board  of 
the  outer  box  or  casing,  were  removed,  leaving 
the  side-walls.  The  space  outside  the  walls 
was  then  filled  in  and  the  coping  frame  was 
placed  in  position  level  with  the  tops  of  the 
walls. 

"  A  fining  of  sand  and  cement  was  applied 
to  the  inner  faces  of  the  bottom  and  side- 
walls,  and  the  coping  of  the  same  material 
was  formed  upon  the  latter,  the  frame 
(E)  constituting  a  guide  in  making  the 
same. 

"  The  cost  of  the  tank  was  as  follows  .- 

Labour  on  construction,  3  days  at  ;^i.25 $  3.75 

Labour  for  breaking  stone 2.00 

Portland  cement,  2|  bbls.  at  ^^1.85 4.63 

Pipes 90 

^11.28 
"In  explanation  it  may  be  stated  that  the 


ECONOMICAL  POND  CONSTRUCTION         3 1 

digging  of  the  hole  required  a  full  day,  as 
the  ground  was  hard-packed  yellow  clay,  and 
a  ledge  of  rock  was  encountered  in  one  end. 
Moreover,  the  proportion  of  sand  and  cement 
employed  was  two  to  one,  whereas  a  greater 
proportion  of  sand  might  have  been  employed 
with  success.  These  increased  the  cost  some- 
what. 

"  The  stone  was  picked  up  about  the  place, 
the  sand  was  obtained  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood  and,  as  already  stated,  waste 
and  discarded  lumber  was  employed,  so 
that  these  materials,  outside  of  the  cost  of 
breaking  the  stone,  added  nothing  to  the 
expense. 

"There  is  but  one  change  or  addition  I 
would  suggest  to  anyone  who  may  construct 
a  water  garden  along  the  above  lines.  This 
one  has  a  draw-off  pipe  at  the  bottom  and  an 
overflow  pipe  at  the  top.  It  would  be  pre- 
ferable, though  not  necessary,  to  have  a 
third  outlet  from  four  to  six  inches  below  the 
overflow,  to  be  closed  in  summer  by  a  suitable 
plug   and    to    be   left   open   in   winter,    thus 


32  WATER-LILIES 

maintaining  a  lower  level  of  the  water  during 
the  cold  season  of  the  year.'* 

SIMPLE    CLAY   PUDDLING 

While  puddled  ponds  are  the  most  econom- 
ical to  construct  they  probably  require  most 
in  the  way  of  repairs.  Besides,  they  are 
possible  only  where  the  necessary  material  — 
a  heavy  clay  —  is  ready  at  hand.  The  first 
steps  of  their  construction  are  the  same  as 
for  all  other  ponds,  at  least  as  far  as  locating 
and  excavating  are  concerned;  but  from  there 
onward  the  methods  of  procedure  differ.  For 
while  both  in  natural  ponds  and  in  ponds 
built  of  concrete  there  is  no  trouble  about 
their  ability  to  hold  water,  an  artificial  pond, 
where  no  concrete  has  been  used,  must  be 
made  water-tight  by  special  means.  For 
such  a  purpose  hydraulic  engineering  knows 
of  no  better  material  than  puddled  clay,  clay 
which  by  a  mechanical  process  has  been  made 
homogeneous  and  very  plastic.  Unless  you 
absolutely  feel   the   need   of  exercising  your 


ECONOMICAL   POND   CONSTRUCTION  ^^ 

muscles  it  is  better  to  get  some  unskilled 
labour  to  do  this  preparation.  For,  to  reduce 
even  a  wheelbarrow  load  of  clay  to  an  ab- 
solutely homogeneous  mass  by  working  it 
over  and  over  is  no  sinecure. 

This  is  the  process:  Clamp  together  several 
boards  so  as  to  make  a  platform,  say  6  x  lo  ft. 
Spread  the  clay,  a  wheelbarrow  load  at  a 
time,  on  the  boards,  and  with  a  spade,  chop  it 
up  thoroughly.  No  lumps  larger  than  a 
walnut  should  remain.  Remove  all  sticks, 
stones  etc;  then,  adding  a  little  water,  begin 
to  pound,  using  a  wooden  maul  and  do  not 
stop  pounding  until  a  perfectly  homogeneous 
mass,  of  the  consistency  of  putty,  has  been 
obtained.  When  this  is  accomplished  start 
on  the  second  load.  Happily  it  is  not  neces- 
sary to  use  a  layer  more  than  four  inches 
thick,  so  that  for  a  pond  twenty  feet  in 
length,  and  with  an  average  width  often  feet, 
seven  to  eight  wheelbarrow  loads  of  puddled 
clay  will  be  ample.  The  cost  of  this  material 
is  generally  about  five  dollars,  including 
hauling,  puddling,  etc. 


34  WATER-LILIES 

Having  reduced  the  clay  to  the  proper 
consistency,  spread  it  evenly  over  the  bottom 
of  the  pond,  thoroughly  beating  it  down  as 
laid. 

The  clay  is  fairly  impervious  to  water  and 
is  not  injured  by  freezing.  The  margins, 
from  mean  water  level  to  a  depth  of  twelve 
inches,  may  be  lined  with  stones  pounded 
into  the  clay.  This  prevents  washing  away 
by  ripples  or  by  moving  ice.  It  is  also 
advisable  to  cover  the  clay  bottom  with  a 
few  inches  of  sand  so  that  the  puddHng  may 
be  protected  and  the  mud  not  so  easily 
stirred  up.  If  this  process  is  carried  out 
consistently,  an  absolutely  water-tight  pond 
will  result.  The  puddHng  is  carried  up  to 
within  three  inches  of  the  rim.  Overflow 
pipes  (preferably  one  pipe  with  two  open- 
ings), and  a  water  faucet  are  to  be  arranged 
for  beforehand. 

When  an  existing  pond  is  to  be  converted 
for  the  growing  of  water-lihes,  it  must  be  our 
aim  to  provide  for  two  things,  the  outline, 
and  a  proper  depth  of  water  at  all  times.  The 


dl  «  - 


'mm  ^: 


^S'?'^.^-^ 


Notice  the  grassy  margin,  instead  of  concrete;  the  flowing,  graceful  outline 
instead  of  the  unnatural  circle  or  square;  and  the  interesting  hardy  plants  in  the 
border,  instead  of  the  everlasting  canna,  castor  oil,  ageratuni  and  other  bedders 


A  well  planned  and  properly  edged  water  garden,  but  too  thickly  planted:  result, 
few  scattering  blooms,  too  solid  foliage  mass  and  loss  of  water  effects 

Plate  VIII.— ARTISTIC  DESIGNS  IN  ARTIFICIAL  PONDS 


The  high  rim  of  this  basin  is  unnatural.     It  necessitates  bold  plant- 
ings around  to  give  it  a  semi-formal  setting 


Informal  basin  in  the  hollow  of  a  lawn.     When  the  stone  margm 
is  hidden,  such  a  pond  is  ideal.    Don't  overplant 

Plate  IX.— HOW  TO  TREAT  A  CONCRETE  EDGE 


ECONOMICAL  POND  CONSTRUCTION         35 

outline  depends  largely  on  surrounding  con- 
ditions and  no  hard  and  fast  rules  can  be 
laid  down.  The  water  level  should  be  two 
feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  pond.  Ordinarily 
this  will  necessitate  the  construction  of  a 
small  dam  which  is  easily  constructed  of 
grass  sods.  First  empty  the  pond  and  then 
excavate  to  a  depth  of  four  feet  where  the  dam 
is  to  be.  Then  put  in  the  sod.  Make  the 
dam  four  feet  wide  at  the  base  and  at  least 
two  and  one-half  feet  wide  at  the  top,  and 
thoroughly  cover  the  sides  with  puddled  clay. 

MAKING   REPAIRS   AND    CLEANING 

It  is  often  very  desirable  to  drain  a  pond, 
in  order  to  repair  its  walls,  to  clean  it  out,  or 
to  replant  or  take  in  tender  species  for  the 
winter.  Provision  should  be  made  for  this. 
Both  outlet  and  drain  may  be  provided  as 
follows:  Lead  a  large  (4- or  6-inch)  pipe  from 
the  deepest  part  of  the  pond  to  some  lower 
outlet — sewer  or  stream.  In  the  pond  attach 
an   elbow  joint   so   as   to   let   the   pipe   turn 


36  WATER-LILIES 

vertically  upward.  Screw  into  the  joint  a 
piece  of  pipe  just  long  enough  to  reach  up  to 
the  desired  water  level.  Now,  when  the 
tank  is  full,  any  overflow  may  go  down  the 
pipe  and  out.  To  empty  the  tank,  it  is 
necessary  to  unscrew  the  upright  piece  from 
the  elbow.  The  outlet  should  in  any  case 
be  covered  with  a  wire  net  to  prevent  clogging 
of  the  drain,  to  retain  fish,  and  to  keep  float- 
ing plants  from  being  lost. 

Should  the  regular  outlet  be  over  a  water- 
fall or  dam,  a  large  pipe  may  be  laid  in  the 
lower  part  of  this  wall.  A  wooden  plug  at 
its  inner  end  will  close  it  on  ordinary 
occasions,  and  can  be  removed  when  the  pond 
is  to  be  emptied.  From  small  ponds  the 
water  can  be  dipped  or  siphoned  out. 

PREVENTING   FLOODS 

Where  a  natural  pond  is  subject  to  a  sudden 
increase  in  water  volume,  a  water  gate  con- 
nected with  an  open  ditch  or  culvert  of  suffi- 
cient size  to  divert  the  additional  column  of 


ECONOMICAL   POND   CONSTRUCTION  -^1 

water  must  be  built  to  obviate  damage  from 
floods.  This  sort  of  construction  work  is  often 
complicated  and  had  best  be  left  to  profes- 
sionals, as  in  the  end  it  will  most  generally 
be  found  a  good  deal  cheaper,  and  will  save 
much  annoyance  and  disappointment. 

If  more  than  one  pond  is  projected,  connect 
them  with  each  other  by  drains,  making  each 
a  little  lower  than  the  preceding.     With  such 
an  arrangement,  water  can  be  supplied  from 
a  fountain  in  the  first  pond,  which  may  be 
entirely  ornamental.     This  has  the  advantage 
that  the  sun's  rays  heat  the  water  drops  in 
falling.     Further,  since  it  is  chiefly  the  sur- 
face water  which  is  carried  ofi^,  the  water  in 
the  last  pond  will  have  the  highest  tempera- 
ture.    This  pond  can  then  be  selected  for  the 
growing   of   tender    or    heat-loving    tropical 
nymphaeas,    etc.     Even    the    giant    Victoria 
Cruziana    does   well    in    such    an    unheated 
pond  in  St.  Louis,  for  example,  but  in  more 
Northern   regions,    some  means  of  artificial 
heating  would  have  to  be  installed  to  help 
out. 


Soils  and  Planting  Out 


CHAPTER  III 

Soils  and  Planting  Out 

One  of  the  most  seductive  facts  about  a 
water  garden  is  that  so  very  Httle  trouble  is 
required  to  make  a  good  showing.  Seedlings 
of  water-Hlies  are  less  troublesome  to  handle 
than  those  of  even  the  more  common  orna- 
mental plants,  and  they  have  the  further 
advantage  that  in  planting  out  there  need  be 
no  fear  of  the  weather  being  too  hot,  or  the 
sun  too  bright.  The  one  necessary  precau- 
tion is  not  to  plant  too  early,  but  to  wait 
until  warm  weather  is  assured.  This  date 
will,  of  course,  differ  in  different  sections,  and 
may  vary  somewhat  from  year  to  year,  but 
generally  in  New  York  it  is  about  June  15th 
for  the  tender  kinds;  the  hardy  ones  can  be 
set  out  in  May.  In  St.  Louis,  a  start  can  be 
made  in  April.  Planting  is  done  directly 
in  the  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  pond  or  in 
41 


42  WATER-LILIES 

receptacles,    either    stationary    or    movable, 
according  to  conditions. 

FOR   NATURAL    PONDS 

In  natural  ponds  and  in  puddled  ponds, 
plant  directly;  the  latter  having  first  of  all 
received  a  12-  to  15-inch  thick  layer  of  soil, 
consisting  of  a  mixture  of  three  parts  heavy 
loam  and  one  part  thoroughly  rotted  cow 
manure,  well  stamped  down.  Then  let  in 
the  water,  till  it  stands  three  inches  deep. 
After  a  couple  of  days,  when  the  water  has 
warmed  a  little,  a  beginning  can  be  made 
with  planting. 

The  plants  to  be  put  out  are  either  old  ones 
carried  over  from  the  previous  year,  new 
tubers,  or  seedlings  started  indoors  in  the 
winter.  The  work  of  planting  out  is  sim- 
plicity itself.  Tubers  and  root-stocks  are 
laid  flat  in  depressions  in  the  soil  made  with 
the  hand  and  are  then  pressed  down.  This 
covers  them  sufficiently. 

Young  plants  are  taken   from  their  pots, 


SOILS    AND    PLANTING   OUT  43 

disturbing  the  soil  around  the  roots  as  little 
as  possible.  Make  a  hole  large  enough  to 
accommodate  the  earthball.  Then  put  the 
plant  in  position,  pressing  down  the  earth  so 
that  a  close  contact  is  made  between  the 
earthball  and  the  soil.  Put  the  plants  three 
to  six  feet  apart,  according  to  the  space  the 
adult  ought  to  occupy,  and  await  results. 

Seedlings  are  treated  in  a  slightly  different 
manner.  First  of  all,  do  not  plant,  in  one 
small  pond,  seedlings  mixed  with  plants  raised 
from  tubers  and  root-stocks.  If  this  is  done, 
the  seedlings  will  simply  be  overwhelmed, 
drowned  indeed!  They  require  a  less  depth 
of  water  to  begin  with,  and  a  more  gradual 
increase  as  the  growth  develops.  If  possible, 
put  the  seedlings  in  a  special  pond,  where 
their  needs  can  receive  close  attention;  but 
should  there  be  only  one  pond  available,  it 
must  be  so  arranged  that  one  portion  is 
decidedly  more  shallow,  or  one  of  the  green- 
house tanks  placed  out  of  doors  can  be  used 
for  the  young  plants. 

There  is  another  advantage  in  this:  Among 


44  WATER-LILIES 

the  hundreds  of  seedHngs  obtained  from  cross- 
fertihsation  (if  you  are  a  hybridist)  there 
will  be  but  comparatively  few  which  possess 
the  desired  qualities.  After  the  first  few 
flowers  have  appeared,  weed  out  everything 
which  does  not  show  great  promise,  unless, 
of  course,  needed  for  some  other  purpose. 
Hence  unknown  seedHngs  can  be  planted 
closer  together  than  others.  Three  feet 
between  the  rows  and  two  feet  between  the 
plants  in  each  row  is  ample. 

FOR   CONCRETE    PONDS 

Planting  in  receptacles,  either  stationary 
or  movable,  is  necessary  in  concrete  ponds. 
If  the  pond  is  large  enough,  stationary  tubs, 
built  of  the  same  material  as  the  pond,  can 
be  located  here  and  there.  They  are  well 
adapted  to  harbour  nelumbiums  whose  root- 
stocks  must  be  Hmited  by  some  means  if 
they  are  to  be  placed  in  a  pond  with  other 
plants,  as  otherwise  they  will  spread  in  an 
alarming  manner.     Indeed  it  is  by  far  the 


SOILS    AND    PLANTING    OUT  45 

best  to  avoid  this  difficulty  by  giving  nelum- 
biums  a  pond  to  themselves. 

It  is  always  best  to  have  the  ponds  built  with 
perfectly  plain  bottoms,  as  special  receptacles 
can  always  be  introduced  as  necessary  to 
accommodate  over-vigorous  growers.  The 
compartments  may  be  of  either  brick  or  wood. 
When  bricks  are  used,  (except  for  nelum- 
biums)  do  not  cement  them  together,  but 
merely  build  a  loose  wall  by  arranging  them 
in  alternating  layers.  The  shape  of  such 
receptacles  will  depend  upon  circumstances, 
that  is  to  say,  on  the  size  and  the  kind  of 
plant  to  be  introduced  and  the  taste  of  the 
builder.  Their  measurements  ordinarily  are 
made  to  vary  from  i  x  2  ft.  to  2  x  4  ft.  The 
depth  is  always  the  depth  of  the  pond.  They 
will  be  found  best  adapted  to  hardy  species 
of  aquatic  plants  other  than  Hlies,  which 
ought  to  be  set  out  during  the  early  part  of 
the  year,  like  the  water  parsnip  (Slum  cicu- 
tcB folium),  the  water  poppy  {Limnocharis 
Humboldtii),  or  the  various  species  of  Jus- 
sieua.    A  tank  24  feet  long  and  15  feet  broad 


46  WATER-LILIES 

can  accommodate  six  or  eight  of  such  brick 
tanks.  Besides,  such  an  arrangement  leaves 
the  bottom  of  the  pond  free.  The  space  thus 
left  can  later  be  filled  with  boxes  in  which 
nymphaeas,  etc.,  can  be  planted  according  to 
season. 

WHEN   TO    PLANT 

Hardy  water-lilies  may  be  planted  at  any 
time.  If  started  in  early  spring  they  should 
bloom  throughout  the  summer. 

Tender  water-lilies  must  not  go  out  of 
doors  until  warm  weather  is  established.  A 
cold  storm  often  occurs  in  the  first  ten  days  of 
June  (in  the  latitude  of  Philadelphia),  and 
if  it  does  it  will  sadly  damage  or  destroy  any- 
thing tender.  Lotuses  (Nelumbo)  should  be 
planted  about  the  first  of  May. 

Where  the  pond  is  very  large,  or  if  but  one 
variety  of  plant  is  to  be  grown,  the  roots  may 
be  allowed  to  run  freely  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pond.  Ordinarily  it  is  much  preferable  to 
plant  in  definite  tubs  or  beds  of  wood  or 


m^m 


\    t       '     '        water    garden.        Both  "tender"  and  "hardy"  water 
plants  do  so  well,  and  grow  so  amazingly  that  they  have  to  be  thinned 


This  style  of  pond  is  proper  near  buildings.  Frankly  formal,  but 
adequate  for  its  surroundings,  and  fitted  to  the  accompanying  archi- 
tecture.    Not  overplanted 

Plate  X.— HARMONIES  WITH  THE  LOCATIONS 


A  puddled  garden,  where  open  water  effects  are  not  expected.    It  resembles  a  slack 
water  of  a  meadow,  where  plants  grow  thickly 


This  is  an  excellent  arrangement.     The  margin  is  low  and  unobtrusive.     Plenty 
of  sunlight  on  the  water,  with  heavy  background 

Plate  XL-POOLS  WITH  OPEN  SURROUNDINGS 


SOILS    AND    PLANTING   OUT  47 

masonry,  be  they  of  whatever  size  or  shape. 
If  this  is  done  the  strong-growing  kinds  will 
not  smother  out  the  weak,  and  those  which 
naturally  spread  rapidly  will  stay  within 
proper  limits.  Lotus  rhizomes  may  run 
thirty  or  forty  feet  in  a  season  if  not  restricted. 

Floating  plants,  like  water  hyacinth,  must 
be  kept  in  place  by  means  of  floating  wooden 
pens  made  fast  to  stakes.  The  pen,  which 
should  be  made  of  inch-square  or  i  x  2-inch 
lumber,  will  soon  be  hidden  by  vegetation. 

Loose  moveable  boxes  are  satisfactory 
because  they  not  only  allow  the  gardener  to 
walk  through  the  pond  with  ease,  but  they 
also  permit  the  shifting  of  the  various  plants 
according  to  their  individual  needs,  thus 
preventing  the  plants  from  becoming  crowded. 
Their  use  is  of  course  not  hmited  to  concrete 
ponds,  for  they  can  be  employed  equally  in 
deep  natural  or  puddled  ponds.  Make  the 
boxes  at  least  ten  inches  deep  and  two  feet 
square,  placing  them  in  position  a  few  days 
before  planting.  But  in  the  case  of  small 
plants,  it  will  be  found  better  to  set  the  plants 


48  WATER-LILIES 

in    the    boxes    before    placing    the    latter    in 
position. 

PLANTING    IN    BASKETS 

In  natural  ponds  where  the  bottoms  are 
too  soft  to  allow  one  to  enter  them,  planting  is 
accomplished  by  means  of  baskets.  The 
tubers  or  plants  are  placed  in  the  soil-filled 
receptacle,  which  is  then  lowered  into  posi- 
tion by  means  of  a  rope  passed  under  the 
handle  and  held  by  two  men  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  pond.  The  basket  soon  falls  to  pieces 
and  the  roots  easily  find  their  way  into  the 
bottom  soil.  Only  hardy  species  should  be 
set  out  in  such  ponds  since  the  roots  cannot 
be  recovered  in  the  fall,  and  tender  ones 
would  be  lost  entirely. 

MAKING   THE    COMPOST 

The  best  soil  for  use  in  the  boxes  or  tubs 
must  be  a  heavy  sod-soil  mixed  with  well- 
rotted  cow  manure  in  proportions  of  three  to 


SOILS    AND    PLANTING    OUT  49 

one,  but  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  good 
garden  soil  and  well-rotted  cow  manure 
makes  a  good  compost  also.  When  setting 
out  the  plant  spread  out  the  roots  well,  and 
after  filling  in  the  soil  cover  with  an  inch  of 
sand.  If  old  cow  manure  is  not  available  use 
ground  bone  —  a  small  double  handful  is 
enough  for  one  small  tub.  The  sand  for 
covering  is  not  a  necessity,  but  it  serves  to 
keep  in  place  the  earth  and  manure. 

One  caution — do  not  use  mud  or  swamp 
muck  in  the  water  garden;  it  contains  much 
undecayed  matter,  which  in  decomposing 
causes  some  portions  to  float. 

After  planting,  raise  the  water  level  to  from 
three  to  four  inches  above  the  crowns  of  the 
plants,  gradually  adding  more  to  keep  pace 
with  the  growth  of  the  leafstalks,  until 
finally  the  water  level  is  brought  up  to  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  above  the  crowns  of 
the  plants.  It  is  important  that  this  is  done 
gradually,  as  the  sudden  addition  of  a  large 
amount  of  cold  water  is  likely  to  chill  and  so 
check  the  lilies. 


50  WATER-LILIES 

Especially  in  the  early  part  of  the  season 
there  is  liable  to  be  an  accumulation  of  scum 
largely  composed  of  algae.  A  determined 
effort  must  be  made  to  get  rid  of  them.  An 
excellent  way  to  accomplish  this  is,  on  a  warm 
day,  to  close  all  overflows  and  to  allow  the 
water  to  rise  four  inches  above  the  highest 
outlet.  Later  this  can  be  opened  and  all 
algae  will  be  carried  off,  especially  if  a  garden 
hose  is  called  into  requisition  to  clean  out  the 
margins  and  all  corners  where  any  growth 
may  have  lodged.  This  matter  is  further 
discussed  in  Chapter  xiii. 

During  the  summer  little  care  is  required 
beyond  the  removal  of  dead  leaves  and  an 
occasional  flushing,  at  which  time  the  water 
level,  which  may  have  fallen  through  evapora- 
tion, must  be  reestablished. 


Wintering   and  Propagating 


CHAPTER  IV 
Wintering  and  Propagating 

The  hardy  water-lilies  give  no  trouble  in 
winter  as  they  are  simply  left  outdoors  where 
they  grew.  They  take  care  of  themselves! 
Natural  ponds  must  perforce  remain  undis- 
turbed; artificial  ponds  can  have  some  water 
drained  off,  and  in  places  where  the  winter 
cold  is  likely  to  be  very  intense,  the  plants 
can  be  covered  with  planks,  hay,  leaves  or 
any  other  protective  material  ready  at  hand. 
Where  hardy  nymphaeas  have  been  grown  in 
tubs  plunged  in  the  ground,  a  simple  covering 
with  hay  is  sufficient.  Loose  tubs  can  either 
be  plunged  in  the  ground  or  removed  to  a 
cool  cellar.  When  spring  returns,  the  cover- 
ing is  removed  at  the  same  time  as  it  is  taken 
off  other  garden  plants;  the  tubs  can  be 
brought  from  the  cellar  in  March. 

On  the  other  hand,  wintering  the  tender, 
53 


54  WATER-LILIES 

day  blooming  water-lilies  is  really  a  difficult 
matter,  requiring  some  skill  and  a  good  deal 
of  space.  Full-grown  plants  may  be  taken  up 
bodily  before  frost,  either  in  their  tubs,  or 
with  a  big  ball  of  earth,  and  wintered  in  a 
large,  warm  tank  indoors — there  they  will 
keep  on  blooming,  with  plenty  of  heat  and 
light;  or  will  merely  keep  alive  in  lower 
temperatures.  Plants  which  have  grown 
large  and  flowered,  will  not  live  over  in  any 
other  way,  excepting  Nymphcea  flavo-vtrens 
and  its  kin.  Usually,  therefore,  the  old 
plants  are  left  outside  to  die;  but  the  tubers 
may  be  collected. 

The  night  bloomers  are  wintered  more 
easily  than  the  tender  day  bloomers.  The 
plants  may  be  taken  from  the  pond  either 
in  their  tubs,  or  with  a  large  ball  of  earth,  in 
October,  and  allowed  to  dry  off  slowly.  In 
a  month's  time  there  should  remain  from 
each  plant  one  or  two  small  tubers.  Some- 
times the  tuber  is  smooth  and  oval;  some- 
times it  is  of  a  very  irregular  shape.  It  is 
kept  in  dry  sand  as  prescribed  for  the  day 


WINTERING  AND  PROPAGATING  55 

blooming  kinds.  In  February  or  March  the 
tuber  is  planted  in  sand  and  sunk  in  a  warm 
tank.  Soon  it  sends  out  a  host  of  shoots. 
These  mature  one  by  one.  They  may  be 
broken  off  and  potted  separately  as  soon  as 
they  have  one  or  two  floating  leaves.  Each 
tuber,  therefore,  of  the  night  blooming  water- 
hhes  will  produce  enough  plants  to  stock  a 
large  pond.  It  is  a  wise  precaution  to  keep 
one  or  two  plants  in  small  pots  all  summer, 
just  to  form  tubers.  The  old  plants  some- 
times rot  completely  when  taken  in. 

Tender  nymphaeas  that  are  to  be  carried 
over  the  winter  for  another  season  must  be 
taken  up  before  there  is  a  chance  of  a  killing 
frost,  that  is  between  October  15th  and  30th. 
If  possible,  drain  the  pond  of  enough  water  to 
facilitate  the  work,  removing  the  leaves  from 
the  plants  and  cutting  off  the  roots  about 
a  foot  from  the  centre.  Then  take  up  the 
plants  with  as  much  soil  as  will  cling  to  them. 

The  best  winter  quarters  for  the  tender 
nymphaeas  is  under  the  bench  of  a  greenhouse 
with  a   temperature  of  from  60°   to   65°  F. 


56  WATER-LILIES 

With  the  mud  clinging  to  them  they  show  no 
differences.  But  most  of  the  stellata  type, 
such  as  JSl ymphcea  ccerulea,  have  a  central 
crown  only,  while  others  have  one  large  and 
a  varying  number  of  smaller  tubers.  These 
mature  during  the  next  month  or  so,  finally 
going  into  a  dormant  condition.  Many  of 
the  stellata  type  produce  tubers  very  sparingly 
and  it  is  often  necessary  to  retain  the  old 
rhizome.  This  old  rhizome,  however,  has  a 
tendency  to  rot  during  the  winter  when 
placed  under  the  greenhouse  bench,  to  pre- 
vent which  it  must  be  kept  in  a  growing  con- 
dition. This  is  best  accomplished  by  potting 
it  into  a  7-inch  pot,  which  is  then  submerged 
in  a  tank  in  the  greenhouse,  only  a  slight 
covering  of  water  being  essential.  By  the 
next  spring  the  plant  will  be  found  ready  to 
make  a  vigorous  growth. 

SORTING   OVER   THE    STOCK 

About   the   middle   of  January   look   over 
the  collection  to  see  what  can  be  saved  and 


WINTERING  AND  PROPAGATING  57 

what  must  be  thrown  away.  In  this  the 
greatest  care  must  be  exercised  as  many  of 
the  most  valuable  types  produce  tubers  often 
not  larger  than  a  pea. 

While  sorting  the  tubers,  carefully  remove 
the  mud  clinging  to  them,  taking  care  not  to 
injure  the  eyes.  Then  place  them  in  rather 
dry  sand,  where  they  can  remain  till  the  time 
comes  to  start  them  into  growth. 

THE    season's    OPENING 

The  new  season's  work  begins  about 
March  1st,  when  the  tubers  must  be  taken 
from  the  sand  storage  and  potted  up,  accord- 
ing to  size,  in  a  3-  or  5-inch  pot.  Use  a  plain, 
heavy  loam  without  adding  either  sand, 
leaf-soil  or  manure,  but  a  little  sand  may  be 
placed  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  after  potting 
is  done.  This  will  help  to  keep  the  plant 
free  from  algal  growth,  and  to  a  certain  extent 
prevent  the  accumulation  of  scum  on  top  of 
the  water. 

The   pots  containing  the  tubers  must    be 


58  WATER-LILIES 

kept  in  water.  For  this  purpose  galvanised 
iron  tanks  painted  with  red  lead  are  best. 
Tanks  of  wood  may  serve,  but  have  a 
tendency  to  leak.  Besides,  they  are  awkward 
to  handle.  Copper  tanks  do  not  give  good 
results.  A  tank  six  feet  long  and  four  feet 
broad,  with  a  height  of  about  nine  inches 
will  be  found  most  serviceable.  These  can  be 
obtained  at  a  cost  of  from  six  to  eight  dollars. 
The  tanks  must  be  flushed  every  day  or  two, 
to  remove  any  matter  which  might  float  on 
the  surface  and  prove  injurious  to  the  young 
plants. 

As  soon  as  a  plant  gets  too  big  for  its  pot, 
shift  it  into  a  size  larger  and  continue  to  do 
this  up  to  7-inch  pots.  Never  let  a  plant 
suflPer  from  need  of  shifting.  Giving  a  plant 
room  and  the  best  opportunities  in  early  life, 
will  largely  counteract  the  effects  of  adverse 
conditions  when  it  is  older.  This  is  a  funda- 
mental rule  in  water-lily  growing  which 
never  should  be  lost  sight  of  by  the  grower. 
It  is  all-important. 

For  various  reasons  it  may  be  impossible 


WINTERING  AND   PROPAGATING  59 

to  obtain  seed  of  some  plants.     Many  of  the 
hardy  nymphaeas  produce  it  but  rarely. 

MAKING  TUBERS  TO  PROPAGATE 

Many  hybrids  are  practically  sterile,  and 
must  be  propagated  from  the  "roots."  The 
same  method  may  also  be  used  for  the  true 
species.  Indeed,  one  can  never  depend  on 
the  purity  of  seed  where  several  kinds  have 
been  grown  in  the  same  tank.  Natural 
hybrids  are  common.  For  pure  stock  of 
tender  water-lilies  we  must  commonly  have 
recourse  to  the  following  method,  beginning 
a  year  in  advance: 

A  young  plant  of  the  desired  kind  is  kept 
all  summer  in  a  6-inch  pot,  in  very  shallow 
water.  It  will  make  good  growth  for  some 
time,  and  then  all  the  leaves  will  die  off.  If 
this  does  not  occur  naturally,  it  must  be 
induced  in  August  or  early  September,  by 
raising  the  plant  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  or 
partly  out.  When  the  leaves  are  gone,  a 
tuber   the   size   of  a   robin's   egg   should   be 


60  WATER-LILIES 

found  in  the  pot.  Now  remove  the  pot  from 
the  water,  and  let  it  become  nearly  dry.  Take 
out  the  tuber,  place  it  in  clean  sand,  and  keep 
It  in  a  moist,  temperate,  or  warm  greenhouse 
atmosphere  until  next  March.  Never  let 
the  tuber  get  hard  and  desiccated,  nor  should 
it  get  really  wet.  It  needs  only  a  gentle 
air-drying. 

Now,  to  propagate,  set  pot  and  sand  and 
tuber  in  a  warm  tank  in  March.  The  tuber 
should  be  planted  about  an  inch  deep.  Soon 
a  shoot  comes  out,  sends  up  leaves  to  the 
surface  of  the  water,  and  makes  roots.  When 
one  good  floating  leaf  is  estabHshed,  wash 
away  the  sand  from  roots  and  tuber,  care- 
fully break  off  the  shoot  with  its  roots  from 
the  apex  of  the  tuber,  and  replant  both 
plantlet  and  tuber.  Of  course  the  plantlet 
now  goes  into  rich  earth.  The  tuber  should 
give  off  at  least  one  more  shoot.  The  first 
plant  is  pushed  forward  for  flowering,  the  next 
is  kept  to  form  a  tuber  for  the  following  year. 

The  easiest  tender  nymphaeas  to  grow,  to 
keep  over  winter,  and  to  increase  from  the 


WINTERING  AND  PROPAGATING  6 1 

tuber,  are  N.  flavo-virens,  N.  Wm.  Stone, 
and  N.  Mrs.  C.  W,  Ward.  The  easiest  to 
grow  from  seeds  are  the  blue  lotus,  Zanzibar 
water-lily,  and  Nymphcea  -jlavo-virens. 

WINTERING    ENTIRE    PLANTS 

It  may  even  be  necessary  to  keep  the  plant 
itself  over  the  winter.  This  course  is  followed 
in  case  of  seedling  water-Hlies  which,  during 
the  year,  have  not  advanced  sufficiently  to 
produce  either  seed  or  tuber.  Though  tubers 
have  been  formed,  they  may  be  immature  and 
Hkely  to  decay  before  the  next  spring  and  it 
then  becomes  necessary  to  resort  to  other 
methods  to  retain  the  variety. 

The  experienced  grower  readily  foresees 
which  particular  plant  is  liable  to  be  in  this 
undesirable  condition  in  the  fall  and  lays 
his  plans  accordingly.  As  soon  as  he  has 
decided  that  the  plant  is  worth  keeping — 
something  which  usually  can  be  foretold  in 
late  summer  —  he  digs  it  up  and  repots  in 
a  shallow  box,  five  to  six   inches   deep   and 


62  WATER-LILIES 

about  two  feet  square  or  even  larger.  After 
boxing,  the  plant  is  returned  to  the  pond, 
where  it  will  continue  to  grow  until  fall,  at 
which  time  it  can  be  transported  bodily  to  a 
tank  in  the  greenhouse.  By  keeping  the  water 
in  the  tank  at  ordinary  greenhouse  tempera- 
ture, that  is  to  say,  60°  to  65°  F.,  growth  will 
not  be  interrupted,  though  somewhat 
retarded,  and  the  tubers  have  an  opportunity 
to  mature.  Following  this  method,  it  is 
highly  probable  that  in  the  spring  we  will  not 
only  have  the  parent  plant  but  likewise  a 
number  of  small  tubers,  which  will  bloom 
the  same  season. 

The  temperature  of  the  water  in  these 
growing  tanks  should  be  about  the  same  as 
that  of  the  house  in  which  they  are  placed, 
that  is  to  say,  about  65°  F.  A  little  more 
heat  is  desirable  for  Nymphcea  Sturtevantii^ 
and  a  greenhouse  pipe  may  be  passed  through 
the  tank  to  supply  the  requirement.  In  an 
emergency,  heating  the  tank  with  a  coal-oil 
stove  placed  under  it  may  be  resorted  to,  but 
cannot  be  recommended  as  a  general  rule. 


WINTERING    AND    PROPAGATING  63 

Keep  the  water  level  so  that  the  edges  of 
the  pots  are  about  two  inches  below  the  sur- 
face. When  the  leaves  appear,  keep  them 
just  floating,  using  blocks  underneath  to 
regulate  the  heights  of  the  pots. 


Seed  Saving  and  Starting 


CHAPTER  V 

Seed  Saving  and  Starting 

Ordinarily  nymphaea  flowers  open  and 
close  on  from  three  to  five  consecutive  days, 
though  in  the  latter  part  of  the  season,  when 
the  nights  get  colder,  the  total  time  may  be 
prolonged  and  flowers  remain  expanded 
throughout;  the  day  bloomers  remaining 
open  all  night  and  the  night  bloomers  remain- 
ing open  during  the  daytime.  But  once  the 
petals  of  a  nymphaea  flower  have  finally 
closed,  the  head  sinks  under  water,  there 
to  remain,  if  fertilised,  from  three  to  five 
weeks,  during  which  time  the  seed  develops. 

When  the  capsule  is  ripe  it  bursts,  and  the 
seed,  rising  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  is 
scattered  over  the  pond,  where  it  floats  during 
the  ensuing  twenty-four  hours,  and  then  sinks 
to  the  bottom.  The  floating  seed  may  be 
gathered  with  a  fine  dipnet.  But  this  entails 
67 


68  WATER-LILIES 

considerable  trouble,  and  there  is  no  means 
of  knowing  exactly  which  plant  yielded  the 
seed  just  collected. 

To  prevent  the  mixing  of  seed,  it  is  suffi- 
cient to  tie  a  cheese-cloth  bag  over  the  flower 
on  its  last  day  of  blooming.  The  bag  should 
be  tied  to  a  stick  stuck  in  the  earth  beside 
the  plant,  in  order  to  prevent  it  from  being 
washed  away  by  water  currents  or  carried  off^ 
by  fishes.  When  the  ripe  capsule  opens,  the 
seed  will  then  be  retained  in  the  bag  and  may 
readily  be  gathered.  Each  plant  may  carry 
two  or  three  capsules. 

The  largest  and  best  seed  is  that  harvested 
just  after  mid-summer.  Special  precautions 
must  be  taken  in  ripening  seed  of  a  weak 
plant.  If  one  such,  starting  to  bloom,  shows 
indications  of  special  merit,  and  it  is  desired 
to  save  seed  from  it,  the  earlier  blooms  must 
be  sacrificed.  Constantly  cut  off  the  flower 
buds  as  they  appear  until  such  a  time  as  the 
plant  has  assumed  a  more  vigorous  growth, 
and  even  then  it  is  wise  to  allow  but  a  couple 
of  capsules   to   mature,   thus   increasing  the 


SEED  SAVING  AND  STARTING  69 

food  supply  of  the  seed.  It  is  a  matter  of 
common  observation  that  well-nourished  seed 
yields  the  most  satisfactory  results. 

The  bagged  capsule  and  seed,  after  being 
collected,  may  remain  unopened  and,  properly 
labelled,  can  be  put  in  an  open  dish  in  a 
draughty  place  away  from  the  direct  sun. 
When  all  is  perfectly  dry,  place  each  capsule 
in  a  fresh  clean  bag,  keeping  it  in  a  con- 
venient place,  neither  too  moist  nor  too  warm, 
until  the  seed  is  wanted  for  sowing.  This 
rule  is  to  be  followed  for  all  nymphaeas 
except  those  of  the  Castalia  (odorata)  group, 
which  must  be  kept  in  water  in  a  cool  place. 

The  middle  of  January  —  and  not  before 
—  is  the  time  for  sowing  seed  of  all  the  water- 
lilies.  A  house  temperature  of  65°  F.  is 
necessary.  Use  glazed  pans  of  convenient 
size,  containing  about  three  inches  of  heavy 
loam,  nothing  else.  Sprinkle  a  little  sand 
on  the  surface  to  give  the  young  plant  a  hold. 
Then  fill  the  pan  with  water  and  sprinkle  the 
seed  on  top.  It  will  float  for  two  or  three 
days  and  then  sink. 


70  WATER-LILIES 

In  from  three  to  seven  weeks  the  first, 
threadlike,  seed  leaves  make  their  appearance. 
Three  to  four  weeks  later  the  third  leaf  will 
have  been  produced.  This  is  the  time  to 
transplant  the  seedlings.  Put  them  singly 
in  2-inch  pots,  shifting  later  into  3-inch 
pots  and  using  in  both  instances  a  soil 
composed  of  heavy  loam  with  which  a  little 
most  thoroughly  rotted  cow  manure  has  been 
mixed.  Do  not  use  leafsoil  or  any  other 
light  material.  From  this  time  the  treatment 
of  seedhngs  is  identical  with  that  of  the  young 
plants  obtained  by  vegetative  propagation 
(tubers,  or  rhizomes),  and  the  whole  lot  may 
be  grown  on  together  under  exactly  simi- 
lar conditions,  even  in  the  same  tank. 

All  the  true  species  of  tender  day-blooming 
nymphaeas  seed  freely,  and  may  be  easily 
raised  from  seed.  These  are  N.  giganteay 
elegansy  gracilis,  ampla,  Capensts,  Zanzi- 
bariensisy  versicolor,  and  ccerulea.  Sow  the 
seeds  in  February,  in  small  pots  or  pans, 
cover  them  lightly  with  sand,  and  keep  in 
warm  water,  about  80°  F.     When  the  plants 


SEED  SAVING  AND   STARTING  7 1 

have  produced  three  or  four  leaves  each, 
prick  off  into  separate  3-inch  pots,  with 
rich  earth,  and  keep  them  in  warm  tanks, 
with  plenty  of  sunshine.  Let  them  grow  as 
fast  as  possible,  and  repot  when  necessary. 
Harden  off  a  Httle  in  cooler  water  before 
setting  out.  When  set  out  they  should  have 
about  three  leaves,  from  three  to  six  inches 
across.  Persons  who  have  no  accommoda- 
tions for  all  this  will  do  best  to  purchase 
plants.     They  are  not  very  costly. 


Raising  New  Varieties 


73 


CHAPTER  VI 
Raising  New  Varieties 

To  THE  thorough-going  water-lily  enthu- 
siast, hybridising  and  pedigree-culture,  which 
enable  him  to  trace  completely  the  ancestry 
of  his  plants  and  the  influence  of  the  various 
crosses,  are  the  greatest  hobbies. 

Where  hybridisation  has  been  attempted 
during  the  previous  season,  it  is  highly 
probable  that  some  of  the  seedlings  will  show 
the  blending  of  parental  characters.  Such 
plants  are  of  course  the  ones  to  be  chosen  for 
the  purpose  of  propagation,  either  by  seed 
or  from  offshoots. 

Though  the  cultivation  of  water-lilies  has 
attracted  widespread  attention  since  the 
middle  of  the  last  century,  but  very  little  is 
known  about  the  limits  of  variation  of  the 
specific  characters,  and  a  scientific  discussion 
of  the  various  hybrids  (using  the  word  in  its 
75 


76  WATER-LILIES 

widest  sense  so  as  to  include  both  crosses 
between  species  and  those  between  varieties) 
is  a  subject  that  the  scientific  botanist  prefers 
to  evade.  In  the  Monograph  of  the  Genus 
Nymphaea  (by  Henry  S.  Conard),  pubhshed 
by  the  Carnegie  Institute  in  1905,  a  large 
number  of  hybrids  whose  names  have  ap- 
peared from  time  to  time  in  various  horti- 
cultural pubhcations  are  fully  discussed. 
Too  often  financial  considerations  or  the 
fond  belief  in  the  undoubted  success  of  an 
attempted  cross  have  led  to  the  pubHcation 
of  the  most  high-sounding,  frequently  most 
ridiculous,  claims.  Much  regret  would  have 
been  spared  had  this  fundamental  rule  of 
hybridisation  been  remembered:  that  by 
crossing,  new  characters,  i.  e.  characters  not 
existing  in  the  ancestors,  can  not  be  pro- 
duced. The  most  careful  scrutiny  of  the 
entire  horticultural  field  shows  but  few 
apparent  exceptions  to  this  rule  and  they  are 
often  susceptible  of  other  explanation.* 

*  An  example  of  a  wholly  new  character  is  the  notch  in  the  sinus 
of  the  leaf  of  iV.  Robinsoni.     H.  S.  C. 


RAISING    NEW    VARIETIES  77 

Without  going  into  details,  it  may  be  said 
that  the  main  object  of  hybridisation  is  to 
combine  in  the  offspring  the  characters  of  the 
parents.  This  is  brought  about  by  the 
artificial  fertilisation  of  the  stigma  of  a 
flower  of  one  parent  with  the  pollen  obtained 
from  the  other  parent.  Among  many  water- 
lily  growers  the  prevailing  custom  is  to  dip 
under  water  the  flower  of  the  intended  female 
parent  on  the  first  day  of  opening,  with  the 
intention  of  removing  any  pollen  which  may 
be  present  and  then  shaking  over  the  stigma 
the  ripe  contents  of  the  anthers  of  the  flower 
intended  as  the  male  parent.  Numerous 
objections  may  be  urged  against  this  method. 
Not  only  is  the  dipping  of  the  female  flower 
of  doubtful  necessity  but  if  the  operation  is 
successful  there  is  no  means  of  knowing 
whether  the  seed  which  forms  is  really  the 
result  of  fertilisation  by  the  pollen  selected, 
or  a  consequence  of  fertilisation  by  the  pollen 
of  the  female  parent  itself,  or  even  of  pollen 
carried  by  insects  to  the  flower  on  the  same 
or  any  ensuing  day. 


7^  WATER-LILIES 

If  we  are  to  arrive  at  satisfactory  results 
and  wish  to  save  ourselves  a  large  amount  of 
unnecessary  trouble  incident  to  the  growing 
of  seedlings  without  value,  we  must  protect 
ourselves  against  such  contingencies.  For 
this  reason,  two  precautions  are  taken:  the 
exclusion  of  insects  from  the  flowers  to  be 
used  and  the  removal  of  the  stamens  of  the 
female  parent.  The  first  object  is  best 
arrived  at  by  enclosing  the  flowers,  before 
they  open,  in  a  bag  of  muslin,  which  must  be 
finer  than  mosquito-netting,  thus  preventing 
the  access  of  foreign  pollen. 

Hybridisation  must  not  be  attempted  in 
the  early  part  of  the  summer  since  but  few  of 
the  pods  mature  their  seeds  then.  It  is  better 
to  wait  till  August.  Almost  infertile  hybrids, 
if  they  mature  any  pods  at  all,  do  so  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  season  only. 

Our  operations  commence  by  ascertaining 
if  the  plant  which  we  desire  to  cross  is  capable 
of  producing  seed.  If  the  flowers  are  fertile 
the  presence  of  a  few  fertilised  ovules  is 
sufficient  to  influence  the  movements  of  the 


RAISING    NEW    VARIETIES  79 

peduncle  which  carries  the  young  pod  under 
water  and  frequently  to  a  comparatively 
great  depth.  The  manner  in  which  this  is 
done  varies  in  the  different  groups.  If  the 
flowers  are  not  fertile,  they  are  hardly  carried 
below  the  surface  of  the  water  and  soon  decay, 
as  does  the  peduncle.  Such  plants  are,  of 
course,  to  be  avoided,  unless  indeed  one  wishes 
to  try  the  influence  of  a  particular  kind  of 
pollen  in  the  hope  that  its  use  may  bring 
about   fertility. 

When  the  water-lily  flower  opens,  the 
stigmatic  cup  in  the  centre  is  filled  with  a  sweet 
watery  fluid,  secreted  mainly  by  the  stigma, 
which  is  receptive  at  the  time.  Not  until  the 
second  day,  after  opening,  is  the  pollen  ripe 
and  liberated  by  the  spHtting  of  the  anthers. 
Therefore,  as  fertilisation  should  take  place 
on  the  day  the  flower  of  the  female  parent 
opens,  the  flower  which  is  to  act  as  male 
parent  (and  which  must  be  two  days  farther 
advanced)  is  previously  selected  and  covered 
by  a  muslin  bag,  which  should  be  large  enough 
to  allow  the  enclosed  flower  to  open  fully. 


8o  WATER-LILIES 

On  Its  first  day  a  flower  opens  about  an 
hour  later  than  on  the  following  days,  also 
closing  earlier  but  opening  only  half  as  wide. 

On  the  first  day  that  the  flower  of  the 
female  parent  is  open,  all  the  stamens  must 
be  removed.  This  requires  a  little  skill  and 
practice.  At  the  same  time  the  stigma  can 
be  fertihsed  with  the  pollen  of  the  male  parent 
selected  48  hours  earlier.  After  the  operation 
the  musHn  bag  is  replaced,  to  remain 
indefinitely. 

The  best  way  to  obtain  the  pollen  is  to  cut 
off  the  flower  and  take  it  indoors.  After 
removing  the  musHn  bag,  the  flower  is  in- 
verted and  the  pollen  shaken  on  to  a  piece  of 
paper.  An  excellent  receptacle  for  the  pollen 
is  a  watch-glass  with  another  watch-glass  for 
cover.  Or  the  Hd  of  a  porcelain  crucible 
about  ij  to  2  inches  wide  may  be  used  for 
this  purpose  and  is  very  serviceable  especially 
when  fastened  to  a  small  flat  stick  such  as  an 
8-inch  label.  From  this  the  pollen  is  trans- 
ferred to  the  stigma,  either  by  simple  shaking 
or  with  the  aid  of  a  dry  camel's-hair  brush. 


RAISING    NEW    VARIETIES  8l 

The  stigmatic  surface,  ordinarily  yellow  in 
colour,  is  more  or  less  cup-shaped.  The 
pollen  is  shaken  into  the  contained  fluid, 
which  shortly  afterward  will  be  found  to 
have  been  absorbed  and  the  pollen  remains 
stranded  on  the  papillar  surface  of  the 
stigma. 

If  fertilisation  is  successful  the  ovary 
begins  to  swell  within  eight  days.  If  un- 
successful, there  is  no  swelling  and  the  flower, 
remaining  near  the  surface  of  the  water,  soon 
decays.  It  is  well  to  cut  off  two  or  three 
flowers  immediately  following  the  one  just 
fertilised,  thus  insuring  greater  supply  of  food. 
The  seed  is  harvested  and  handled  subse- 
quently as  told  in  the  chapter  on  "  seed  saving 
and  starting." 

Different  results  are  often  obtained  by 
using  one  species  as  male  and  the  other  as 
female  parent  and  vice  versa,  for  which 
reason  a  cross  should  always  be  attempted 
both  ways. 

While  any  of  the  results  obtained  may  be 
propagated  indefinitely  in  a  vegetative  manner 


82  WATER-LILIES 

it  will  also  pay  to  raise  plants  from  the  seed 
of  one-year-old  hybrids,  since  some  of  the 
most  experienced  growers  claim  that  it  is  in 
the  second  generation  that  some  of  the  best 
results  appear. 

The  genealogy  of  but  few  of  the  hybrids 
now  in  cultivation  can  be  indicated  with  any 
degree  of  certainty.  This  is  especially  the 
case  where  the  records  were  in  the  possession 
of  a  single  individual  who,  for  trade-reasons, 
was  unwilHng  to  communicate  his  knowledge. 
At  the  same  time  identical  results  have  been 
produced  at  different  times  and  in  different 
countries,  and  natural  hybrids  are  of  common 
occurrence  where  closely  related  species  are 
growing  together. 

It  was  about  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth 
century  that  the  first  attempts  at  hybridisa- 
tion were  made.  The  first  reputed  hybrid, 
N.  Devoniensis,  was  exhibited  in  England 
and  was  claimed  to  be  the  result  of  a  cross 
between  N.  rubra  and  N.  Lotus.  It  is 
doubtful,  however,  whether  a  cross  actually 
took  place  and  now  it  is  generally  believed 


RAISING    NEW    VARIETIES  83 

as  far  more  probable  that  N.  rubra  was  self- 
fertilised. 

In  1852  and  1853  hybrids  between  varieties 
of  N.  Lotus  and  N.  rubra,  the  latter  acting 
as  seed-parent,  were  obtained  in  both  Belgium 
and  Germany.  Much  later,  in  1885,  N.  Lotus 
was  used  as  female  parent  and  fertilised  with 
pollen  of  A^.  Devoniensis.  The  result  was 
N.  Kewensis.  Though  the  plant  was  not 
propagated,  identical  plants  were  later  ob- 
tained in  America  where  the  offspring  persists 
under  the  same  name. 

In  America  much  excellent  work  has  been 
done.  Especially  the  development  of  the 
Brachyceras  group  has  received  much  atten- 
tion. Though  in  Germany,  in  the  early 
sixties,  Professor  Caspary  had  devoted  much 
attention  to  this  group,  the  results  obtained 
were  not  preserved  and  it  remained  for 
Mr.  W.  Tricker  to  originate  most  of  the 
hybrids  now  belonging  to  this  group.  But 
the  Lotus  group  also  received  its  share  and 
it  is  to  such  men  as  Gurney,  Tricker,  Stur- 
tevant,  Bissett,  Grey  and  Ames  that  we  are 


84  WATER-LILIES 

indebted  for  the  best  results.  Especially 
noteworthy  in  the  group  are  the  descendants 
of  N.  Omarana.  This,  obtained  by  Bissett 
in  1894,  is  itself  a  hybrid  of  complicated 
parentage.  Its  direct  parents  are  N.  dentata 
and  N.  Sturtevantii.  The  delicate  pink  of 
its  flower  has  gradually  been  deepened 
through  successive  crossings.  As  an  instance 
of  the  gradual  deepening  of  colour  we  may 
mention  a  series  of  crosses  carried  out  by  Mr. 
James  Gurney,  at  Tower  Grove  Park,  St. 
Louis.  In  1902,  by  crossing  a  N.  Devon- 
iensis  with  N.  Omarana,  he  obtained  a 
crimson-flowered  plant,  very  much  like  ISf, 
Devoniensis  in  appearance,  which  he  named 
N.  Frank  Trelease.  He  then  attempted  to 
introduce  the  \A\x^  coXoxix o{ N .Zanzihariensis, 
fertilising  N.  Frank  Trelease  with  the  pollen 
of  the  blue  one.  In  1905  he  obtained  a 
splendid  night  bloomer  which,  while  possess- 
ing the  dark-brown  foliage  of  N.  Frank 
Trelease,  had  a  dark  magenta  flower,  per- 
ceptibly shaded  with  blue.  Continuing  the 
experiment,  this  plant  was  again  pollenated 


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RAISING    NEW    VARIETIES  85 

with  M.  Zanzibariensts,  which  cross,  in  1906, 
yielded  a  plant  with  flowers  in  which  the 
petals  were  dark  magenta  overlaid  with 
bluish  purple.* 

An  immense  field  of  absorbing  interest 
awaits  him  who  with  care  and  patience  will 
devote  time  to  the  hybridisation  of  water- 
hlies.  For  as  yet  we  are  but  at  the  beginning 
of  things  and  but  little  has  been  done,  com- 
paratively speaking. 


*  Mr.  Conard  does  not  admit  that  a  real  hybridisation  occurs  in 
these  cases.  These  plants  and  Mr.  Sturtevant's  N.  tuberosa,  var. 
rubra  need  minute  investigation. 


The  Hardy  Water-lilies 


87 


LIBRA;  ^  .  . 

Dioision  oi  Horticulture, 
N.  C.  Dep't  of  Agricultttfei 

CHAPTER  VII 

The  Hardy  Water-lilies 

If  one  water-lily  only  can  be  selected  for 
such  a  small  effort  as  a  two  foot  square  pool, 
such  for  instance  as  might  be  provided  by 
a  half  kerosene  barrel,  the  little  Chinese 
pigmy  water-lily,  Nymphcsa  tetragona,  will 
be  the  most  satisfactory,  because  it  will 
quickly  cover  the  water  with  its  small 
horseshoe-shaped  leaves.  These  are  dark 
green,  with  faint  and  picturesque  brown 
blotches  on  the  upper  surface,  dull  red 
beneath,  and  the  combination  is  rich  in  colour. 
Then  again,  it  is  a  good  plant  for  flowering  — 
a  good  specimen  will  keep  up  a  continuous 
succession  of  its  little  star-like  flowers  through- 
out the  season,  from  June  to  September. 
Often  two  or  three  flowers  will  be  open  at 
once.  The  eight  or  ten  snowy  petals  sur- 
round a  group  of  stout  golden  stamens,  and 
89 


90  WATER-LILIES 

in  the  centre  is  a  broad,  yellow,  basin-shaped 
stigma.  The  flower  opens  each  day  about 
noon  and  closes  again  at  five  in  the  afternoon, 
repeating  this  on  three  or  four  successive 
days.  It  exhales  a  deHcate  fragrance,  like 
that  of  a  tea  rose. 

If  a  change  from  the  pure  white  is  wanted 
we  may  choose  one  of  the  smaller  hybrids 
of  the  pigmy  water-lily.  For  bright  yellow 
take  the  yellow  pigmy  {NymphcBa  tetragonal 
var.  helvola),  similar  in  size  and  in  habit  of 
growth,  but  the  flower  is  bright  yellow  and 
the  leaves  are  very  heavily  blotched  with 
distinct  reddish-brown  patches.  It  gets  these 
characteristics  from  the  native  Mexican  water- 
lily  (N.  Mexicana),  which  is  found  in  Florida, 
Texas  and  Mexico.  This  is  a  very  peculiar 
species,  scarcely  hardy  as  far  north  as  Phila- 
delphia, and  certainly  cannot  be  classed  as 
a  hardy  garden  plant.  For,  though  it  will 
exist  in  water  of  a  depth  of  three  feet,  it  will 
not  bloom  if  left  continuously  out  of  doors. 
It  is  a  shy  bloomer  even  at  its  best. 

For   those   who   prefer   pink   there   is   the 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  9I 

Laydeker's  pink  pigmy  {Nymphcea  Lay- 
dekeri,  var.  rosea),  another  hybrid  of  the 
Chinese  water-Hly.  It  resembles  its  Chinese 
parent  in  size,  habit  and  character  of  leaf. 
The  flowers,  however,  which  are  produced 
in  great  numbers,  are  more  cup-shaped. 
When  the  flower  first  opens  the  petals  are  of 
a  delicate  shell  pink.  On  subsequent  days 
the  inner  petals  change  to  rose,  and  finally 
to  a  deep  carmine-rose  colour;  and  usually 
there  are  two  or  three  flowers  of  different  ages 
open  at  once. 

These  three  pigmy  varieties  are  neat 
enough  in  all  surety,  but  will  only  be  chosen 
for  a  small  tank  or  a  Japanese  garden,  where 
everything  is  done  on  a  miniature  scale. 

FOR  GARDENS  OF  FOUR  FEET  SQUARE 

In  the  next  sized  garden,  where  four  feet 
square  or  perhaps  more  can  be  given  to  a 
plant,  a  very  wide  choice  presents  itself. 
We  may  now  have  white,  yellow,  pink, 
orange    or    deep-red    flowers,    and,    whereas 


92  WATER-LILIES 

in  the  very  small  gardens  we  have  to  be  con- 
tent with  flowers  about  two  inches,  we  will 
now  be  able  to  grow  some  six  or  eight  inches 
across. 

For  the  smaller  spaces,  of  say  two  to  four 
feet  square,  Marliac's  yellow  (Nymphcsa 
Marliacea,  var.  chromatella),  the  ISf .  Laydekeri 
varieties  and  N.  exquisita  will  do  well.  But 
the  great  majority  will  not  do  their  best  on  a 
water  surface  less  than  four  feet  square. 

The  first  named  (chromatella)  is  decidedly 
the  hardiest  and  most  satisfactory  of  all  the 
garden  water-lilies.  It  is  also  one  of  the 
oldest,  dating  from  about  1888.  The  flower 
is  bright  yellow,  and  on  its  first  day  sits  Hke 
a  golden  cup  on  the  water.  It  has  other  very 
decided  claims  to  favour:  A  single  stock  will 
give  a  continuous  bloom  from  the  first  of 
June  until  frost,  and  often  there  will  be  two 
flowers  open  at  once.  The  leaves  usually 
float  on  the  water,  and  are  beautifully  mottled 
with  reddish  brown.  But  in  shallow  water, 
or  when  crowded,  both  leaves  and  flowers 
rise  several  inches  into  the  free  air  and  grow 


The  most  double  of  all  the  white  water-lilies  (^Nymphcea  Richardson i).     It  does 
best  in  about  three  feet  of  water.    The  flowers  are  not  odorous 


The  sweet-seen:^  ■       .:_:-lily  has  good  garden  varieties  or  hybrids.     Kymph^a 
Luciana  here  shown  is  rosy  pink  and  twice  as  large  as  the  common  white  ones 

Plate  XIV.-SOME  OF  THE  BEST  HARDY  KINDS— I 


N.  Marliacea,  var.  rosea,  one  of  two  red  French  hybrid  water-hlies.     Both  are 
rank-growing  plants,  often  raising  both  leaves  and  flowers  above  the  water 


Nymphcea  alba,  war.  candidissima,  the  best  oi  all  the  water-iilies  for  deep 
ponds.      One  of  the  early  bloomers,  and  it  flowers  from  June  to  frost 

Plate  XV.— SOME  OF  THE  BEST  HARDY  KINDS— II 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  93 

with  a  look  of  rank  luxuriance.  The  plant 
increases  rapidly  in  favourable  circumstances, 
so  that  the  possessor  of  a  single  shoot  will 
soon  be  able  to  supply  his  neighbours.  It  is 
perfectly  hardy,  even  in  water  so  shallow 
that  it  must  certainly  freeze  to  the  bottom. 
The  fragrant  yellow  water-lily  {N.  odorata, 
var.  sulphured)  is  more  delicate,  and  is  easily 
distinguished  when  out  of  flower  because  the 
blotched  leaves  are  always  floating.  The 
flower  is  composed  of  slender  spreading 
petals.  Its  chief  interest  lies  in  the  fact  that 
it  is  the  off*spring  of  two  native  species  {N, 
odorata   and   N.   Mexicand). 

SOME    REALLY   GOOD    WHITE    HYBRIDS 

Among  whites  none  of  the  wild  species  is 
sufficiently  free-flowering  to  win  a  place  in  a 
small  collection.  We  have,  however,  some 
superb  varieties.  Possibly  N.  Gladstoniana 
is  the  best  of  these.  It  is  thoroughly  hardy 
and  a  strong  grower.  The  leaves  are  of  a 
rich   green   colour,   and    may   reach    ten   or 


94  WATER-LILIES 

twelve  inches  across.  Of  the  flower  what 
shall  be  said  ?  Its  many  snowy  petals  stand 
out  in  all  directions,  making  an  airy  sphere  of 
glistening  whiteness  six  or  eight  inches  in 
diameter.  The  flower  opens  early  in  the 
morning  and  does  not  close  until  two  or  three 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  often  reappears 
on  four  successive  days.  The  plant  will 
give  a  goodly  number  also  from  a  single  shoot 
in  a  season,  though  there  must  be  three  or 
four  shoots  to  insure  continuous  bloom.  The 
only  quality  that  this  water-lily  lacks  is  a 
sweet  scent. 

Similar  to  this  in  its  flower  is  the  white 
Marliac  Hly  {N.  Marliacea,  var.  albtda),  a 
very  rank  grower,  which  often  raises  its 
dark-green  leaves  and  flowers  well  above 
the  water. 

A   GROUP   OF    REDS    AND    ROSES 

There  are  two  red-flowered  Marliac  lilies  of 
identical  habit  with  the  preceding,  but  one 
(N.  M.,  var  cameo)  has  light,  pearly,  pink 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  95 

flowers,  the  other  {N.  M.,  var.  rosea)  is  deep 
rose.  None  of  the  three  can  be  said  to  bloom 
freely.  N.  Wm.  Doogue  resembles  N.  M., 
var.  carnea,  but  has  larger  flowers,  sometimes 
six  inches  across,  and  rather  more  of  them. 
It  is  of  American  origin,  while  all  the  N.  Mar- 
Uacea  and  Laydekeri  varieties  are  French  and 
take  their  group  names  from  their  raisers. 

THE    CAPE    COD    WATER-LILY 

The  flowers  have  the  slender,  graceful 
petals  of  the  common  white  pond-lily  and  the 
deHcious  scent  of  that  species,  but  are  of  a 
beautiful  rose-pink  colour.  As  in  the  type 
species  the  flowers  open  about  6  a.  m.  or 
earlier  and  close  about  noon,  but  this  variety 
has  the  peculiarity  of  keeping  its  sepals 
continuously  open.  The  closed  flower  there- 
fore forms  an  ovate  mass  of  pink,  stand- 
ing on  a  four-rayed  star  of  dull  white.  It  is 
a  shy  bloomer,  and  must  be  raised  in  con- 
siderable numbers  to  give  a  good  eff'ect.  It 
is  impatient  of  the  summer  heat  of  Phila- 


96  WATER-LILIES 

delphia  even,  but  does  well  in  its  chief  habitat, 
Cape  Cod.  One  of  the  Marliac  group, 
called  N.  exqutsita,  is  a  more  vigorous  and 
more  floriferous  variety. 

THE    DEEP    RED    WATER-LILIES 

The  flowers  of  the  deep-red  varieties  are 
more  or  less  cup-shaped,  /.  e.,  the  petals 
are  erect  and  concave.  From  a  pale  pink 
on  the  outermost  petals  the  colour  deepens 
toward  the  centre  of  the  flower  to  a  deep 
crimson.  The  stamens  are  crimson  or  deep 
orange  red  on  the  outer  face,  with  bright- 
orange  or  yellow  anther  cells.  In  full  sun- 
shine the  eff'ect  is  rich  and  striking.  The 
plants  are  strong  growers  for  the  most  part, 
but  slow  to  propagate.  They  produce  a 
fine  circle  of  large  round  leaves  and  a  goodly 
number  of  their  magnificent  blooms,  which 
often  reach  five  or  six  inches  across. 

The  splendid  colouring  of  this  group  is 
derived  from  the  Swedish  water-lily  {N.  alba, 
var.  rubra),  which  is  very  hard  to  tame.     It 


^  8 


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O     ? 


"=   o 
2  < 


-c    J; 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  97 

has  been  grown  with  tolerable  success  in 
northern  New  York  and  in  Massachusetts, 
but  is  not  to  be  recommended.  N.  sanguinea 
has  flowers  of  rosy,  purple-spotted  carmine; 
Laydekeri  purpurata  is  rosy  crimson  with 
orange-red  stamens;  fVm.  Falconer,  bright 
garnet  and  as  much  as  seven  inches  across, 
perhaps  the  most  gorgeous  of  the  lot; 
James  Gurney,  smaller  and  dark  rose,  and 
James  Brydon  are  among  the  best  known 
of  these. 

RED    AND    YELLOW    BLENDS 

A  distinct  and  beautiful  series  of  varieties 
in  which  red  and  yellow  are  blended  has  been 
produced  by  combining  the  Swedish  water- 
lily  with  our  native  yellow  water-lily  {N. 
Mexicana).  The  eflFect  of  the  deep  red  in 
the  centre  of  the  flower  with  pale  yellow  on 
the  outer  petals  is  extremely  striking.  The 
brown  blotching  of  the  leaves  which  is  seen 
in  most  of  these  red-yellow  water-lihes  is 
inherited    from    the   American   parent.     For 


gS  WATER-LILIES 

small  gardens  or  where  one  does  not  want 
to  get  oflF  with  a  minimum  of  labour  these 
are  ideal  plants.  They  do  not  spread  rapidly 
but  maintain  a  single  strong  shoot,  from 
which  an  ample  supply  of  leaves  and  flowers 
arises. 

N.  Robinsoni  and  N.  Seignoreti  are  the 
oldest  and  best  known  of  this  group.  The 
former  bears  a  peculiar  "ear-mark,"  by 
which  it  may  always  be  recognised.  As  in  all 
the  nymphaeas,  the  leaf  is  round,  and  attached 
to  the  petiole  near  the  centre.  On  the  basal 
side  a  deep  cleft  divides  the  leaf  from  the 
margin,  nearly  or  quite  to  the  petiole.  The 
borders  of  this  cleft  are  very  constantly  smooth 
and  entire.  But  in  N.  Robinsoni  there  is  a 
peculiar  crimped  notch  on  each  side,  midway 
of  the  cleft;  it  also  has  floating  flowers,  where- 
as those  of  its  companion  stand  six  inches 
above  the  water. 

The  bright  combination  of  yellow,  orange 
and  red  which  characterises  the  flowers  of 
this  group  is  suggested  by  the  name  of  one  of 
the  most  recent  members,  N.  Aurora,  the 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  99 

flowers  of  which,  opening  with  a  yellowish 
colour,  get  redder  and  redder  as  they  age. 

If  you  have  a  large  pond  there  will  be  room 
for  the  less  floriferous  varieties.  The  com- 
mon pond-lily  (N.  odorata),  unequalled  for 
sweetness,  may  be  planted.  Words  cannot 
picture  a  large  bed  of  this  in  full  bloom.  It 
is  one  of  those  things  that  one  must  see  to 
know  its  beauty  and  charm.  The  northern 
Isf .  tuherosa  is  a  more  rampant  grower,  and 
indeed  it  will  take  complete  possession  of  the 
pond  if  not  opposed.  Its  flowers  are  large, 
pure  white,  but  scentless  and  few  in  number. 
Ample  space  will  also  make  it  well  worth 
while  to  plant  N.  odorata,  var.  rosea,  the  pink 
Cape  Cod  variety.  The  fact  that  it  makes 
few  flowers  to  a  shoot  is  lost  sight  of  in  a 
large  pond. 

In  the  shallows  N.  odorata,  var.  minor 
will  do  well.  It  is  a  diminutive  odorata, 
which  can  get  on  fairly  well  even  if  the  water 
completely  dries  away  from  around  it. 

Those  hitherto  mentioned  will  as  a  rule 
give  best  results  in  water  having  a  depth    of 


100  WATER-LILIES 

from  one  to  two  feet  above  the  root-stocks;  but 
N.  odorata  and  JSf .  tuberosa,  it  is  true,  will 
stand  three  or  four  feet.  But  for  depths  of 
two  to  five  feet  N.  alba,  var.  candidisstma 
is  recommended.  Large  plants  of  this  will 
make  a  wide  spread  of  lo-inch  leaves, 
and  will  produce  splendid  white  flowers  from 
the  first  of  June  until  frost.  This  is  one  of 
the  earliest  bloomers  in  spring.  It  is  exceed- 
ingly strong  and  hardy. 

For  depths  of  water  up  to  eight  or  ten  feet 
the  giant  Southern  pond-lily  (N .  odorata, 
var.  gigantea)  is  best.  It  is  little  more  than 
a  large  odorata.  The  leaves  reach  a  foot  or 
more  in  diameter,  the  flowers  four  or  five 
inches. 

The  following  table  will  aid  in  identifying 
any  of  the  hardy  kinds. 

KEY    TO   THE    HARDY   WATER-LILIES 

Flowers  yellow. 

Opening  ii  to  12  a.  m. 

Spreading  by  runners N.  Mexicana 

Without    runners N.    tetragonoy    var.    helvola 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  1 01 

Opening  from  7  to  8  a.  m. 

Petals  broad,  concave;  flower  cup-shaped, 

N.  Marliacea,  var  chromatella 

Petals  narrow,  spreading N.  odoratay  var. 

sulphurea    and    N.   sulphurea,   var.    granJtflora 
Flowers  pure  white. 

Leaves  ovate,   small N.     tetragona 

Leaves  circular. 

Strongly  sweet-scented. 

Flowers  2-5  in.  across;  Ivs.  4-8  in.  .  .  .  N.  odorata 
Flowers  1-3  in.  across;  Ivs.  3-5  in.  N.  0.,  var.  minor 
Flowers  3-6  in.  across;  Ivs.  8-12  in 

A^.  0.,  var.  gigantea 
Odourless  or  nearly  so. 

Petiole  marked  with  longitudinal  brown  stripes, 

N.  tuberosa 
Flowers  very  double.     N.  /.,  var.  Richardsonii 
Petiole  uniformly  coloured. 

Sepals  rounded  to  the  receptacle. 
Always  sterile: 

Flowers  and  leaves  rising  from  the  water, 

N.  Marliacea^  var.  albida 
Flowers  and  leaves  floating, 

N.   alba,  var.   candtdissima 
Fertile;  petals  spreading  in  all  directions, 

ISl.  Gladstontana 

Flower  more  cup-shaped N.  alba 

Very  double N.  a.,  var.  plenissima 

Very  large N.  a.,  var.  maxima 

Sepals  joining  the  receptacle  by  a  sharp  angle, 

A^.  Candida 


102  WATER-LILIES 

Flowers  red  or  pink. 

Flowers  small,  pink,  opening  about  ii  a.  m. 
Plant  a  single  crown  without  offshoots, 

N.  Laydekeriy  var.  rosea 
Plant  with  many  side  shoots, 

N.  Laydekert,  var.  rosea  prolifera 
Flowers  3-7  inches  across. 

Petals  all  alike  in  colour  —  pink. 

Leaves  deep  red  beneath.     N.  odorata,  var.  rosea; 
N.   exquisita;  N.   rosacea 
Leaves  pink  or  green  beneath.  .  .  .AT.  Carolintana; 
N.    odoratay    var.    Luciana;  N.    tuherosOy 
var.  rosea;  N.  t.,  var.  superha 
Outer  petals  whitish,  shading  to  pink  or  red  at  centre 
of  flower. 
Plants  very  robust;  fls.  and  Ivs.  rising  above  water. 
Flowers  soft  flesh  pink 

N.  MarliaceOy  var.  carnea;  N.   Wm.  Doogue 
Flowers  deep  rose  colour. 

N.  Marliacea^  var.  rosea 
Less  robust;  fls.  floating,  deep  red  at  centre. 
Leaves  blotched  with  brown. 

Flowers  rosy  lilac.    N.  Laydekeri^  var.  lilacea 
Flowers  deep  red. 

Sepals  and  petals  in  fives N.  gloriosa 

Sepals  and  petals  in  fours 
Stamens  deep  orange. 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  flammea 
Stamens  cardinal 

N.  MarliaceOy  var.  ignea 


THE    HARDY    WATER-LILIES  IO3 

Leaves  dark  green. 
Fertile. 

Inner  petals  bright  red.    A'',  alba,  var.  rubra 
Inner  petals  deep  carmine.  .  .  .N.  Froebehi 
Sterile  hybrids. 

Flowers  opening  in  early  morning.    N.  tVm. 

Falconer;  N.  James  Gurney;  N. 

James  Br y don 

Flowers  opening  after  9  a.  m.  N.  Ellisiana; 

N.  sanguinea;  N.  Marliacea,  var.  rubra 

punctata;  N.  Laydekeri,  var.  purpurea 

Outer  petals  yellowish,  shading  to  red  at  centre  of 

flower. 

Leaf   with    a    notch    on    border    of    sinus. 

AT.  Robinsoni. 

Sinus  entire.  N.  Seignoreti;  N.  Aurora;  N.  fulva; 

N.    Andreana;    N.    lucida;    N.    Laydekeri 

fulgens;   N.    chrysantha;   N.    Arethusa;    N. 

Arc-en-ciel 


The  Tender  Day  Blooming  Water-lilies 


»s 


CHAPTER  VIII 
The  Tender  Day  Blooming  Water-lilies 

There  are  two  great  groups  of  tender 
water-lilies.  In  one  group  the  flowers  ex- 
pand in  the  evening,  remain  open  all  night, 
and  close  during  the  following  morning 
(these  are  discussed  in  the  next  chapter); 
in  the  other  group  the  flowers  open  at  various 
hours  during  the  morning,  and  close,  as 
variously,  in  the  afternoon. 

These  day  bloomers  have  sweet-scented 
flowers,  six  to  twelve  inches  across,  carried  on 
strong  stalks  several  inches  above  the  water. 
The  leaves  are  often  very  large  (up  to  two 
feet)  and  float  upon  the  water  like  those  of 
the  hardy  kinds.  The  leaf  margins  are  often 
wavy,  while  the  hardy  kinds  always  have 
smooth-edged  leaves.  In  this  group  we 
have  —  or  soon  shall  have  —  flowers  in  all 
colours:  red,  blue,  yellow,  and  white!  Splendid 
107 


I08  WATER-LILIES 

creatures  they  are.  It  is  no  wonder  the 
Egyptians  carved  pictures  of  them  on  their 
temple  walls,  painted  them  on  their  coffins, 
covered  the  dead  with  wreaths  of  them,  and 
bore  them  in  their  processions,  as  offerings 
to  the  gods. 

GLISTENING   WITH    BLUE    AND    GOLD 

The  king  of  all  the  water-lily  tribe  is  the 
Zanzibar  water-lily  (N ymphcea  Zanziharien- 
sis).  Its  flowers  are  of  the  richest  royal  blue, 
often  ten  inches  across,  and  borne  eight  or 
ten  inches  above  the  water  on  strong  stalks 
thicker  than  one's  thumb.  The  broad,  blunt 
petals  make  a  solid  cup-shaped  ring,  sur- 
rounding a  large  number  of  stamens.  These 
last  are  truly  "gleaming  with  purple  and 
gold"  —  golden  anthers,  with  carmine  purple 
backs.  In  the  centre  of  the  flower,  seen  only 
on  its  first  day  of  opening,  is  the  cup-shaped 
golden  yellow  pistil,  an  inch  in  diameter. 
This  Hly  opens  on  three,  four,  or  rarely  five 
successive  days,  from  ii  a.  M.  until  5  p.  m. 


TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    IO9 

A  well-grown  plant  has  dark-green  leaves, 
mottled  with  brown,  eighteen  to  twenty-four 
inches  across,  with  deeply  wavy  margins, 
and  the  under  side  a  dull  purplish  blue. 

It  will  accommodate  itself  to  a  great 
variety  of  circumstances.  It  will  flower 
even  in  a  6-inch  pot,  sunk  in  a  tub  of  water, 
but  the  blooms  will  be  only  three  inches 
across,  and  the  leaves  small  in  proportion. 
The  more  room,  the  more  and  the  larger 
the  flowers  and  leaves  will  be.  With  a 
3-foot  tub  for  the  roots  and  ten  feet  square 
of  water  surface,  you  can  get  the  maximum 
results. 

A  new  flower  comes  'up  every  two  or  three 
days,  so  you  always  have  one,  often  two  or 
three  blooms  from  a  single  root.  It  blossoms 
from  the  middle  of  July  until  killing  frosts 
arrive. 

PALE  BLUE  AND  RED  ZANZIBARS 

There  are  two  forms  and  several  hybrids 
of    the    Zanzibar    water-lily,    all    of    which 


LIBRARY. 

DiDision  of  Rorticuiturc, 


no  WATER-LILIES 

deserve  a  close  acquaintance:  the  azure 
Zanzibar  {N.  Zanzibariensis,  var.  azurea), 
with  flowers  of  Hght  blue,  and  leaves  pale 
blue  beneath;  the  pink  Zanzibar  (N.  Zanzi- 
hariensisy  var.  rosea)  which  has  flowers  of 
bright  rose  pink,  and  leaves  reddish  beneath. 
There  is  a  tinge  of  purple  about  the  pink 
petals  of  the  latter  variety,  which  betrays  its 
origin. 

Just  how  it  sprang  from  its  deep  blue 
parent  is  not  quite  clear.  It  makes  a  mas- 
sive, beautiful  flower. 

THE    GORGEOUS    HYBRIDS 

Next  to  the  two  just  mentioned  must  be 
placed  the  hybrids  of  similar  colour,  N.  Wil- 
liam Stone,  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward,  and  Stella 
Gurney.  From  a  broad  spreading  circle 
of  large  green  leaves  the  slender  flower 
stalks  rise,  topped  with  graceful,  starry 
blooms. 

WiUiam  Stone  is  bright  blue,  Mrs.  C.  W. 
Ward  is  pink,  with  a  tinge  of  purple,  and 


TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    III 

Stella  Gurney  is  a  very  bright  pink.  In 
all  three,  the  inside  of  the  sepals  shares 
somewhat  of  the  colour  of  the  petals. 
They  are  from  seed  of  the  white-flowered 
N.  flavo-virens  (known  in  American  gardens 
as  N.  gracilis  but  diflPerent  from  the  plant 
of  that  name  in  Europe).  The  petals  are 
narrow,  and  taper  to  an  acute  point.  The 
flower  is  "star-shaped,"  the  parts  spread- 
ing out  in  all  directions,  like  rays  of  a  star. 
They  are  borne  on  tall  stalks,  a  foot  or 
more  above  the  water.  The  eff'ect  is  very 
striking. 

A    RED    DERIVED    FROM   A    BLUE 

Deserving  of  special  notice  is  ISfymphcea 
■flavo-virens,  var.  rubra  (The  "red  graciHs" 
of  our  gardens).  It  is  much  like  Mrs.  C.  W. 
Ward,  but  the  purple  tone  of  the  latter  is 
ehminated,  and  we  get  a  pure  deep  pink, 
approaching  red. 

This  is  at  once  a  pleasure  to  the  cultivator 
and  a  notable  triumph  for  the  plant  breeder. 


112  WATER-LILIES 

for  it  came  from  a  blue  parent,  N.  Zanzi- 
bar tens  is. 

A    GOOD    PINK    FOR    ANYBODY 

Another  pink  water-lily  among  the  tender 
day  bloomers  is  in  this  country,  though  not 
offered  in  catalogues.  This  is  Nymphcea 
stellata,  var.  versicolor.  The  flower  is  from 
four  to  five  inches  in  diameter,  pure  pink 
with  few  and  rather  narrow  petals,  rising 
but  a  few  inches  above  the  water.  The 
leaves  have  wavy  margins,  are  pink  beneath, 
and  about  eight  inches  in  diameter.  While 
its  size  is  not  equal  to  that  of  many  of 
its  relatives,  this  variety  is  very  pretty, 
and  gives  promise  of  value,  as  one  easy  to 
propagate. 

In  the  fall,  the  base  of  each  leaf,  where  it 
separates  from  the  short  stem,  develops  a 
little,  hard  tuber.  This  tuber  may  be  kept 
along  with  ordinary  tender  bulbs  during 
the  winter,  and  will  produce  one  or  more 
plants   the   following    summer.      The    plant 


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TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    1 13 

is    native    to    India,    Indo-China,    and    the 
Philippines. 

THE    LONGEST    ENDURING  —  GIGANTEA 

If  for  massive,  dazzling  splendour  the  Zan- 
zibar water-lily  deserves  kingly  praise,  cer- 
tainly the  giant  lily  (N ymphcea  giganted)  is 
the  queen  of  water-lilies.  Its  flower  is  a 
huge,  airy  head  of  soft  azure  blue,  with  a 
centre  of  purest  gold.  The  original  speci- 
men in  the  Kew  herbarium  is  twelve  inches 
across.  The  blossoms  are  borne  a  foot  and 
a  half  above  the  water,  on  slender  green 
stalks,  shghtly  bending  with  the  weight  they 
carry.  It  is  open  on  five  to  seven  successive 
days  from  8  or  9  a.  m.  until  twiHght;  it  is 
therefore  of  much  longer  duration  than  any 
other  species.  The  petals  are  twenty  to 
fifty  in  number,  broad  and  rounded,  and  of 
a  slightly  crinkled  texture,  like  crepe.  The 
colour  shades  from  a  deep  blue  at  the  point  of 
the  petal  to  a  very  pale  blue  at  the  base.  The 
tints    are    exquisitely    chaste    and    pure;  the 


114  WATER-LILIES 

flower  is  an  embodiment  of  grace  and  dig- 
nity. The  leaves  are  large,  a  little  more 
oval  than  round,  dark  green  above,  but  deep 
Tyrian  purple  beneath.  The  margins  are 
very  evenly  scalloped,  each  wave  ending  in 
a  sharp  tooth.  The  plant  is  separated  from 
all  others  of  its  kind,  by  several  botanical 
differences,  the  most  notable  of  which  is 
that  there  are  no  gradations  from  petals  to 
stamens. 

ISfymphcBa  gigantea  is  the  most  difficult  of 
the  day  bloomers  to  cultivate.  It  can  hardly 
be  grown  at  Philadelphia  without  artificial 
heat.  If  you  wish  to  grow  it,  get  a  large 
plant,  and  have  it  shipped  in  the  pot  or 
basket  in  which  it  was  grown.  Set  it  out 
two  weeks  later  than  the  other  tender  kinds, 
and  hope  for  warm  weather  at  the  time  of  its 
arrival.  Place  it  in  the  tank  with  the 
utmost  care. 

Any  check  in  its  growth  is  likely  to  cause  it 
to  stop  growing,  and  drop  its  leaves;  and  it 
can  only  be  coaxed  into  growth  in  warm  water 
after  a  rest,  too  late  for  the  current  season's 


TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    II 5 

use.      The    perfect    plant    is    so    stately,    so 
noble,  that  it  is  worth  much  effort  and  risk. 

THE    ONE    POPULAR   WHITE 

Of  blues  and  whites  we  may  have  a  con- 
siderable assortment,  inside  the  present 
group.  N.  flavo-virens  (commonly  cata- 
logued in  America  as  N.  gracilis),  already 
mentioned,  is  the  only  well-known  white.  Its 
flowers  are  borne  on  tall,  slender  stalks.  The 
petals  open  quite  widely,  and  are  arranged 
in  a  graceful  star  form.  The  very  sweet- 
scented  flower  opens  on  three  successive  days 
from  early  morning  until  5  or  6  P.  M.  The 
petals  are  narrow  and  pointed,  and  of  a  dull 
rather  than  a  snowy  whiteness.  The  leaves 
reach  a  diameter  of  eighteen  to  twenty  inches, 
and  are  bright  green  on  both  sides.  While 
this  is  not  a  showy  species,  it  is  graceful  and 
pleasing. 

It  is  very  easily  increased,  either  by  seeds 
or  tubers.  In  the  fall  the  main  stem,  as  big 
as  one's  fist,  or  bigger,  hardens  and  ripens 


Il6  WATER-LILIES 

into  a  rough  tuber.  It  should  be  taken  in- 
doors about  the  first  of  November,  or  earlier, 
if  ripe,  and  kept  in  dry  sand.  Pringle  says 
he  has  seen  them  lying  on  the  ground  in  dried- 
up  pools  in  Mexico,  like  old  pine  cones.  In 
spring  each  tuber  gives  rise  to  several  lusty 
plants  for  summer  blooming.  This  hardy 
character  is  shared  by  its  offspring,  William 
Stone,  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward  and  Stella  Gurney, 
making  these  the  best  ones  for  most  of  us. 

THE    BEST   WHITE    NOT   OFFERED 

A  nearly  allied  species  is  Nymphcea  amplay 
from  tropical  America.  While  it  resembles 
N.  flavo-virens  in  colour,  the  flower  is  larger 
(four  to  seven  inches  across)  and  the  petals 
broader,  and  rounder.  The  leaf  is  often 
very  large,  twenty  to  twenty-four  inches 
across,  and  reddish  purple  beneath.  The 
sepals  are  marked  with  numerous  black 
specks  and  lines,  whereas  those  of  N.  flavo- 
virens  are  pure  green,  or  very  rarely  with 
black    markings.     Unfortunately,    this    fine 


TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    1 1  7 

species  has  yet  to  be  introduced  to  the  Ameri- 
can trade;  the  plant  commonly  known  in 
the  American  trade  as  A^.  ampla  is  N.  Ama- 
zonurriy  a  night  bloomer. 

A  BLUE  GEM  FOR  THREE  DAYS 

We  have  a  native  blue  water-lily  which  is 
the  daintiest  of  all  its  group,  Nymphcea  ele- 
gans.  The  smooth-edged  oval  leaves  lie 
separately  on  the  water,  without  crowding 
one  another.  They  are  about  eight  inches 
long,  by  six  inches  wide,  of  very  graceful  out- 
line. The  dark  green  upper  surface  is  hand- 
somely blotched  with  brown,  the  under 
surface  a  rich  red-purple,  with  blue-black 
specks.  Each  flower  lasts  three  days,  and  is 
open  from  8  a.  m.  until  i  p.  m.  Think  of  the 
most  dehcate  shade  of  violet  in  the  rainbow, 
and  you  have  an  idea  of  the  colour  that 
plays  on  the  petals  and  shades  in  and  out 
between  the  golden  stamens  and  the  pale 
sepals  of  this  charming  little  water-lily.  It 
rarely  exceeds  six  inches  in  diameter.     Like 


II 


8  WATER-LILIES 


all  the  others,  it  needs  no  special  care  in 
summer,  and  it  is  as  easy  as  any  blue  kind 
to  flower  under  glass  in  winter. 

THE    REAL    EGYPTIAN    LOTUS 

The  true  Egyptian  lotus,  or  blue  lotus 
{NymphcBa  ccerulea),  is  a  water-lily  of  this 
class,  and  one  of  the  easiest  blues  to  raise. 
The  flowers  rise  well  above  the  water,  and 
are  open  for  three  days,  from  7:30  a.  m. 
until  noon.  They  never  open  very  widely, 
but  remain  in  a  broad  cup-shape,  so  that 
the  four  green  sepals,  with  the  characteristic 
copious  black  spots,  are  always  evident. 
The  petals  are  of  a  pale-blue  colour,  shading 
to  dull  white  at  base,  not  very  numerous,  and 
rather  narrow.  The  flowers  will  measure  six 
and  a  half  inches  across,  with  petals  three  and 
a  half  inches  long.  The  leaves  reach  a 
diameter  of  twenty  inches  under  very  favour- 
able circumstances.  They  are  entire,  dark 
green  above,  copiously  spotted  with  black 
beneath. 


TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    I IQ 

This  species  produces  many  seeds,  which 
are  easily  grown.  Its  seeds  have  been  known 
to  He  out  in  the  mud  of  a  pond  near  Phila- 
delphia over  two  winters,  and  to  come  up 
vigorously  during  the  second  summer.  The 
same  thing  occurred  once  with  the  Zan- 
zibar lily,  the  seedlings  actually  coming  into 
bloom  in  September. 

OPEN    AS    LATE    AS    FOUR   o'CLOCK 

The  last  real  species  of  blue  water-lily  is 
Nymphcea  Capensis.  It  is  a  strong  plant, 
with  pale  blue  flowers  like  the  azure  Zanzi- 
bar. It  differs  from  that  chiefly  in  keeping 
its  flowers  open  from  7  a.  m.  to  4  p.  m.,  and 
in  having  the  leaves  pure  green  on  both 
sides.  The  sepals  and  petals  are  narrower. 
The  flowers  are  very  large,  and  of  perfect 
shape,  making  this  a  desirable  kind. 

THE    BEST    BLUE    STAR 

From  the  blue  lotus  {N ymphcea  ccerulea) 
have    sprung    two    hybrids    of    prominence. 


120  WATER-LILIES 

N.  pulcherrima  and  ISl .  Pennsylvania.  N. 
pulcherrima  has  long  been  known  as  the 
best  "stellate''  light  blue.  By  stellate  is 
meant  that  the  petals  are  few  and  narrow 
enough  to  give  the  flower  a  star-like  shape. 
It  is  a  fairly  free  bloomer,  and  produces  very 
large  flowers  and  leaves.  Its  big,  sharp, 
cone-shaped  buds,  heavily  mottled  with  black 
dots,  are  very  striking  and  characteristic. 
The  leaves  have  wavy  margins. 

A   DANGEROUS    RIVAL  —  PENNSYLVANIA 

It  is  said,  however,  that  Nymphcea  Penn- 
sylvania is  to  outshine  Nymphcea  pulcher- 
rima. Pennsylvania  is  a  most  proHfic 
bloomer,  always  having  two  or  three  flowers 
up  at  once.  They  remain  open  from  8  a.  m. 
until  5  p.  M.  Each  one  is  a  great,  bright 
blue  cup,  with  a  golden  centre.  The  buds 
are  big,  blunt,  and  egg-shaped.  The  four 
heavy  sepals  are  thickly  marked  with  black 
dots  and  lines.  The  original  plant  bore 
petals  four  and  a  half  inches  long.     None 


TENDER  DAY  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES    121 

of  its  kin  surpasses  it  in  size  and  freedom 
of  flowering.  The  leaves,  too,  are  as  large  as 
those  of  any  of  its  alHes,  spotted  with  brown 
above,  and  more  or  less  bluish  beneath. 

THE    YELLOW   GLORIES   TO    COME 

There  are  two  treasures  awaiting  intro- 
duction, and  which  promise  great  things. 
Africa  hides  in  its  vast  interior  two  yellow 
tender  species,  allied  to  the  present  blues  and 
reds  and  whites.  One  has  excellent  double 
flowers  six  or  seven  inches  across  {Nym- 
phcBa  Stuhlmannii).  The  other  (ISf ymphcea 
sulphurea)  is  a  pigmy,  with  flowers  and 
leaves  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter.  Aside 
from  their  individual  attractions,  think  what 
a  future  they  offer  for  hybridisation!  It  is 
earnestly  hoped  that  they  will  not  long  be 
absent  from  our  gardens. 

KEY   TO   THE    TENDER    DAY    BLOOMING    WATER-LILIES 

Colour  of  flowers  white. 

Lvs.  green  beneath;  petals  acute N.  flavo-virens 

Lvs.  red-purple  beneath;  petals  obtuse.  . .  .N.    ampla 


T22  WATER-LILIES 

Colour  of  flowers  pink  or  red. 

Lvs.  with  little  wart-like  pustules  beneath, 

N.  stellata,  var.  versicolor 
Lvs.  not  pustulate 

Petals  broad  and  rounded, 

N.  Zanzibariensisy  var.  rosea 
Petals  narrow;  flower  stellate 

Flowers  pinkish N.  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward 

Flowers  pink N.   Stella  Gurney 

Flowers  red N.  flavo-virenSy  \3.t.  rubra 

Colour  of  flowers  blue. 

Sepals  densely  marked  with  black  spots 

Fl.  small;  stamens  50  to  70;  fertile N.  ccerulea 

Fl.  large;  bud  sharply  conical;  sterile, 

N.  pulcherrima 

Fl.  large;  bud  rounded  ovoid N.  Pennsylvania 

Sepals  pure  green  or  with  very  few  spots 

The  stamens  all  round-stalked N.  gigantea 

The      outer      stamens     with      broad     flat     stalks 
(filaments) 

Lvs.  entire;  petals  delicate  violet N.  elegans 

Lvs.  sinuate,  large 

Fl.  deep  royal  blue,  cup-shaped, 

N.  Zanzibariensis 
Fl.  azure  blue 

Shape  stellate;  flower  stalk  tall, 

N.  Wm.  Stone 
Shape  cup-like;  fl.  stalk  shorter 
Lvs.  bluish  beneath, 

2^.  ZanztbartenstSf  var.  azurea 
Lvs.  pure  green  beneath.  .  .N.  Capensis 


The  Night  Blooming  Water-lilies 


133 


CHAPTER  IX 
The  Night  Blooming  Water-lilies 

The  night  blooming  water-lilies,  which 
we  may  properly  term  the  lotos  group,  open 
the  flowers  between  7  and  8  p.  m.,  and 
they  remain  open  until  from  nine  to  one 
o'clock  of  the  following  day.  Each  flower 
does  this  on  three  successive  nights.  These 
are  therefore  preem.inently  the  busy  man's 
water-lilies;  the  proper  kinds  for  the  suburban 
dweller  who  is  away  from  home  and  garden 
throughout  the  day. 

They  are  all  tender.  In  habit  they  re- 
semble their  day-flowering  relatives.  The 
leaves  are  numerous  and  mostly  large — up 
to  two  feet  across  —  and  he  flat  on  the 
water. 

A  single  plant  will  cover  a  space  ten  or 
twelve  feet  square.  Yet  they  get  on  well 
in  smaller  quarters.  We  know  of  a  red  one 
125 


126  WATER-LILIES 

that  bloomed  all  one  summer  in  a  tank 
four  feet  square,  where  two  hardy  water- 
lilies  and  the  water-poppy  also  shared  the 
space. 

The  margin  of  the  leaf  in  all  the  species  of 
the  lotos  group  is  scalloped,  with  sharply 
pointed  teeth.  The  flowers,  when  well  grown, 
are  large  and  massive,  and  are  borne  on  stout 
stalks  six  to  twelve  inches  above  the  surface 
of  the  water.  In  colour  we  have  all  shades, 
from  pure  white  through  pink  to  magenta  and 
deep  red. 

A    REALLY    BEAUTIFUL   MAGENTA 

The  most  splendid  member  of  this  splendid 
group  is  Nymphcea  Omarana.  Its  noble 
flower  reaches  a  diameter  of  ten  or  twelve 
inches. 

In  colour,  it  is  of  a  brilliant  purple-red 
hue,  close  to  "magenta"  of  the  colour  charts. 
Each  petal  has  a  narrow,  nearly  white, 
stripe  along  the  middle.  It  has,  as  Tricker 
says,    "an    indescribable    glow"   when  seen 


THE  NIGHT  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES     IZ'J 

in  the  early  morning  sunshine.  The  petals 
are  thin  and  soft  in  texture,  and  spread 
gracefully  in  all  directions  in  the  fully 
opened  flower.  The  sepals  and  lowermost 
petals  become  reflexed.  The  many  brownish- 
red  stamens  stand  erect  in  a  ring  at  the 
centre  of  the  flower. 

As  this  kind  is  a  very  free  .  bloomer,  a 
single  root  will  always  have  one  or  two 
mature  flowers.  It  begins  to  bloom  in  July 
and  continues  until  frost.  The  circle  of 
large  bronzy-red  leaves  alone  is  an  ornament 
to  the  garden. 

Comparable  with  this  is  Nymphcea  Stur- 
tevantit.  Under  favourable  conditions  these 
flowers,  too,  may  reach  a  foot  in  diameter. 
But  it  never  opens  more  than  to  a  wide  cup- 
shape.  The  bright  pink  petals  are  broad 
and  concave,  evenly  coloured  and  very 
numerous.  The  incurved  stamens  are  of  a 
brownish  orange  colour.  The  bronzy  leaves 
are  often  very  large,  and  always  much  crum- 
pled at  the  margins.  It  requires  plenty  of 
room  and  a  high  temperature  to  give  the  best 


128  WATER-LILIES 

results.     It  is  the  most  massive  in  flower  and 
foliage  of  all  the  true  water-liUes. 

THE    BEST    RED    LILY 

Of  a  darker  shade  than  either  of  the  pre- 
ceding, though  a  parent  of  both,  is  Nymphcea 
Devoniensis.  This  again  has  flowers  of  the 
largest  size,  but  of  a  pure  red  colour.  The 
petals  are  ovate,  four  or  ^\e  inches  long  by 
an  inch  and  a  half  wide.  The  flower  does 
not  expand  so  widely  as  that  of  Omarana, 
although  it  is  more  open  than  that  of 
Sturtevantii.  Devoniensis  is  a  mostly  sterile 
hybrid,  and  is  a  very  free  bloomer.  The 
plant  gives  rise  during  the  summer  to  a  num- 
ber of  lateral  crowns.  When  several  of  these 
get  started,  a  single  plant  may  cover  two 
hundred  square  feet  of  pond,  and  may  have 
as  many  as  thirty-six  flowers  and  buds  visible 
at  one  time!  Under  these  conditions  the  leaves 
are  badly  crowded,  and  the  flowers  are  under 
size,  but  the  effect  is  superbly  rich.  When 
the  leaves  first  come  up  they  are  dark  red. 


THE  NIGHT  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES     IZQ 

As   they  grow  older,   they   become   greener, 
finally  reaching  a  bronzy-green. 

A  GROUP  OF  VERY  DARK  REDS 

Among  recent  introductions  are  some  reds 
much  deeper  in  shade  than  Devoniensis. 
Probably  N.  Geo.  Huster  is  the  best  of  these. 
It  is  a  strong  grower  and  free  bloomer.  Its 
flowers  are  not  so  large  as  those  of  Omarana, 
being  only  eight  to  ten  inches  across  at  the 
best.    Otherwise  the  two  kinds  are  much  alike. 

N.  Frank  Trelease  is  a  variety  with  still 
deeper  crimson  flowers,  of  medium  size.  The 
colour  is  so  dark  as  to  give  very  deep  shadows 
between  the  petals.  Its  leaves  are  dark 
bronzy-red,  and  about  fifteen  inches  across. 

N.  "James  Gurney,  Junior  (not  in  the  trade) 
is  very  much  like  Frank  Trelease,  but  darker, 
being  dark  magenta  overlaid  by  bluish  purple. 

N.  Columhiana,  an  old  variety,  is  not  so 
deep  in  colour  as  the  last  two,  and  its  flowers 
are  only  about  six  inches  across.  The  leaves 
are  bronzy-red.     It  is  only  a  moderate  grower. 


130 


WATER-LILIES 


Passing  to  the  other  extreme  of  colour — 
for  colour  is  our  chief  means  of  classifying 
these  kinds  —  we  have  several  pure  whites. 
The  chief  of  these  goes  by  the  name  of  Nym- 
phcea  dentata.  The  petals  of  dentata  are 
about  three  and  a  half  times  as  long  as  they 
are  wide.  In  a  fully  open  flower  they  stand 
out  in  a  ring  or  disc  exactly  at  right  angles  to 
the  petiole.  In  the  middle  of  the  flower  the 
light  yellow  stamens  stand  erect.  The  whole 
effect  is  rather  curious  and  a  little  stiffs.  It 
might  be  likened  to  a  short,  stout  candle 
standing  in  the  middle  of  a  white  saucer. 
The  leaves  are  bright  green. 

As  varieties  of  this  there  are  three  forms 
offered,  undoubtedly  improvements  in  size 
and  profusion  of  flowers:  ISfymphcBa  dentatay 
var.  grandiflora,  described  as  having  petals 
twice  as  wide  as  the  old  form.  N.  dentata, 
var.  superha  has  more  numerous  petals  than 
the  originial,  and  N.  dentata,  var.  magnificay 
a  larger  flower.  The  old  dentata  only  reaches 
eight  or  ten  inches  across. 

Distinguished  from  dentata  by  the  shape  of 


Plate  XX.— THE   FLOWER-BUD  OF  A  VICTORIA 

This  one  (V.  Cruziana)  differs  from  V.regia  in  being  less  spiny 
on  the  sepals.  At  the  time  of  opening  a  delicious  fragrance, 
like  pineapples,  pervades  the  air 


THE  NIGHT  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES     I3I 

its  flower  is  the  white  night  lotus  (Nymphcea 
Lotus).  Horticulturally  its  chief  virtue  is  its 
great  fecundity.  Both  lotus  and  dentata 
bear  big  balls  of  seed  in  great  profusion. 
And  their  hybrids  inherit  this  character  in 
more  or  less  completeness.  The  petal  of 
lotus  is  broad  and  concave,  the  outside  often 
tinted  with  pink.  The  flower  opens  only  to 
a  cup-shape.  Nymphcea  thermalis  is  identical 
with  Nymphcea  Lotus. 

From  these  we  may  pass  to  Jubilee,  of  a 
delicate  pinkish  white  colour,  and  on  to 
Smtthtana,  with  slightly  more  pink;  delica- 
ttssimay  light  pink;  Deaniana,  deep  pink; 
Kewensis,    a    little    paler    than    Sturtevantii. 

With  the  flower  colour  goes  a  bronzy  tint 
of  the  leaves.  The  leaves  of  delicatissima 
show  a  distinct  metallic  tint,  which  in  Kewen- 
sis  reaches  a  definite  bronze.  In  shape  of 
flower,  delicatissima  resembles  dentata:  it 
opens  widely,  and  the  petals  are  narrow. 
The  other  three  have  broad  ovate  petals, 
which  only  open  to  form  a  cup-shaped  flower. 

The  cup-shape  is  only  desirable  when  the 


132  WATER-LILIES 

flowers  are  looked  at  from  above.  Ordi- 
narily the  widely  opening  kinds  are  to  be 
preferred,  as  water-lilies  have  generally  to 
be  viewed  from  some  distance.  And  in 
this  group  there  is  no  odour  to  invite  a  closer 
inspection. 

Only  the  white  night  blooming  water-lilies 
can  be  relied  upon  to  come  true  to  seed. 
Our  reds  and  pinks  are  all  hybrids,  and  will 
produce  a  great  variety  of  tints  from  seed. 
Of  course  there  is  a  pure  red  species,  Nym- 
phcBa  rubra,  from  which  the  hybrids  have 
derived  their  colour.  Regarding  this  Dr. 
Conard  writes,  *'in  spite  of  the  offerings  m 
catalogues,  I  am  convinced  that  the  true  N. 
rubra  is  not  in  America.  Its  home  is  in  India. 
Will  not  some  one  import  a  pure  strain .? " 

For  the  curiosity  seeker,  we  must  mention 
here  an  odd  species  from  South  America,  the 
Amazon  water-lily  {Nymphcea  Amazonum; 
known  in  the  trade  as  N.  ampla).  It  needs 
the  same  treatment  as  those  just  described, 
though  requiring  a  Httle  more  heat.  The 
leaves  are  bright  green,  smooth  edged,  and  of 


THE  NIGHT  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES     I33 

a  graceful  oval  shape.  The  flower  is  yellow- 
ish white,  and  four  or  five  inches  across.  It 
floats  on  the  water  like  the  hardy  kinds.  The 
bud  rises  just  above  the  water  surface  to-day, 
let  us  suppose.  Between  3  and  4  a.  m.  to-mor- 
row it  opens  to  a  narrow  cup-shape,  and  closes 
again  before  six.  The  next  day  it  begins  to 
open  about  half-past  six  in  the  evening,  and 
by  eight  it  has  four  white  petals  spread  out 
around  a  firm  white  bud.  Thus  it  remains 
until  half-past  three  in  the  morning,  when  the 
whole  flower  bursts  into  full  bloom.  It  thus 
remains  spread  for  about  fifteen  minutes;  by 
six  o'clock  it  is  entirely  closed,  and  is  already 
retreating  into  the  water.  There  are  several 
other  kinds  in  South  America  of  unknown, 
but  probably  similar,  habits.  They  are  only 
likely  to  appeal  to  the  night  watchman. 

THE    GIANT   VICTORIAS 

The  queen  of  all  the  water-lily  tribe,  if  not 
of  the  whole  vegetable  world,  is  the  wonderful 
night   blooming  Victoria.     Everyone   should 


134  WATER-LILIES 

know  its  gigantic  saucer-shaped  leaves.  They 
are  often  six  feet  across,  perfectly  circular 
in  outHne,  with  the  margin  turned  up,  four 
to  eight  inches  at  right  angles  to  the  water 
surface.  Each  leaf  is  a  veritable  boat,  with 
capacity  to  float  the  weight  of  a  man.  The 
under  side  of  the  leaf  presents  a  marvellous 
network  of  girder-like  veins  for  the  support 
of  the  giant  structure.  A  strong  plant  should 
have  three  or  four  such  leaves  in  perfect  con- 
dition at  one  time. 

The  flower  is  no  less  remarkable.  It 
floats  on  the  water,  and  regularly  reaches 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  in  diameter. 
In  appearance  it  is  a  huge  and  very  double 
water-lily.  The  numerous  petals  are  delicate, 
almost  like  chiffon  in  appearance  (although 
really  having  plenty  of  substance)  and  spread 
out  widely  in  every  direction.  In  spite  of  its 
size,  there  is  nothing  coarse  about  it. 

Let  us  watch  one  open.  About  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  the  great  brown 
prickly  bud  looks  very  forbidding.  Soon 
a  most  delicious  fragrance  assails  our  nostrils; 


THE  NIGHT  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES     I35 

it  speaks  of  apples,  peaches,  pineapples  — 
what  might  be  called  a  "symphony"  of 
scents.  We  look  and  see  that  the  pale  petals 
are  showing  through  four  crevices  in  Victoria's 
bud.  As  evening  advances  the  great  creamy 
blossom  opens  fully,  and  the  odour  becomes 
almost  oppressive.  Next  morning,  about 
nine  o'clock,  the  flower  closes.  The  second 
evening  it  opens  an  hour  or  two  earlier  than 
before.  It  has  lost  all  its  scent,  but  has 
assumed  a  pink  colour.  On  the  second 
morning  it  looks  half  wilted,  and  during  the 
day  it  descends  slowly  into  the  water.  The 
Victoria  blooms  almost  continuously  after 
it  once  gets  started.  But  it  requires  a  long 
season  and  a  good  deal  of  heat. 

Nearly  allied  to  Victoria  is  the  Gorgon 
plant  {Euryale  ferox),  of  Indo-China.  It 
has  small  flowers  whose  royal  blue  petals 
make  a  brilliant  contrast  with  the  red  inner 
surface  of  the  sepals.  The  flowers,  however, 
are  not  often  seen,  and  sometimes  do  not  open 
at  all.  The  leaves  are  circular,  two  or  three 
feet   across,   without   any   upturned    border. 


136  WATER-LILIES 

It  is  cultivated  like  Victoria  Cruziaha,  but  is 
more  hardy.  These  two  plants  are  dis- 
cussed in  greater  detail  in  another  chapter. 

KEY   TO   THE   TENDER   NIGHT    BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES 

Leaves  with  upturned  margins Victoria 

Sepals  smooth  above V.  Cruziana 

Sepals  prickly  to  the  tip V.  regia 

Leaf  margins  not  turned  up 

Leaf  peltate,  entire  (not  cleft) Eur y ale  ferox 

Leaf  cleft  on  one  side Nymphcea 

Leaf  margin  smooth N.  Amazonum 

Leaf  margin  sharply  toothed Lotos  group: — 

Flowers  pure  white 

Petals  spreading  flat      N.  dentata  and  varieties 
Cup-shaped N.  Lotus 

Flowers  pink 

Delicate  pinkish  white;  cup-shaped         Jubilee 
Blush  pink;  cup-shaped  Smithiana 

Light  pink;  opening  flat  delicatissima 

Pure  pink;  cup-shaped  Deaniana 

Pink  to  red;  cup-shaped  Kewensis 

Pink;  cup-shaped  Sturtevantii 

Flowers  red 

Magenta;  10-12  in.  across  Omarana 

Red;  6-10  in.  across  Devoniensis 

Red;  6  in.  across  Columbiana 

Deep  red;  8-10  in.  across  Geo.  Huster 

Crimson;  9-10  in.  across  F.  T release 


THE  NIGHT  BLOOMING  WATER-LILIES     I37 

The  differences  between  the  water-HUes 
of  the  Lotos  group  are  too  sHght  to  express  by 
an  analytic  key.  We  never  could  do  better 
than  to  arrange  them  in  a  linear  series  accord- 
ing to  the  colour  of  the  flower.  Indeed,  of 
the  hybrid  Kewensis  it  is  positively  stated 
that  but  one  plant  was  raised  originally,  and 
it  died  without  leaving  any  progeny.  What 
we  now  know  as  Kewensis,  therefore,  bears 
the  name  only  by  courtesy.  It  is  a  new  cross 
which  came  out  so  nearly  like  its  predecessor 
as  to  be  horticulturally  the  same. 


Growing  the  Giant  Victorias 


139 


CHAPTER  X 

Growing  The  Giant  Victorias 

The    Victorias    or    giant    water-lilies    are 
natives    of   the    warmer    portions    of   South 
America,  where  they  thrive  in  lagoons  and 
in    the    quieter    portions    of    rivers.     Their 
gigantic  leaves,  often  measuring  more  than 
five  feet  across,  as  well  as  the  immense  flower, 
fully    a    foot    across,    naturally    produced  a 
profound    impression    upon    the    European 
botanist  Haenke  who,  in  1801,  first  reported 
their    discovery.     Numerous    early    attempts 
to  introduce  the  plant  into  cultivation  in  the 
Old   World   were    unsuccessful;   seeds    (sent 
both  dry,  and  packed  in  wet  clay)  failed  to 
germinate,  and  young  plants  did  not  survive 
long  enough  to  produce  flowers.     It  was  not 
until    about    fifty    years    after    the    Victoria 
became  known  that  the  first  flowering  plants 
were  grown  from  seed  in  Europe.     At  the 
141 


142  WATER-LILIES 

Duke  of  Devonshire's  estate  at  Chatsworth, 
England,  on  the  eighth  day  of  November, 
1849,  the  first  flower  opened.  During  the 
same  year  two  other  plants  blossomed  in 
England,  the  one  at  Chiswick,  the  other  at 
the  Royal  Botanic  Gardens,  Regent's  Park, 
London.  The  latter  plant  was  under  the 
care  of  Mr.  James  Gurney,  the  veteran 
water-lily  grower  subsequently  of  Shaw's 
Garden,  at  St.  Louis,  Mo.,  and  now  the  super- 
intendent of  Tower  Grove  Park  in  that  city 
where  the  annual  displays  of  water-lilies 
have  become  famous.  For  him  it  was  a 
never-to-be-forgotten  moment  when  Queen 
Victoria,  accompanied  by  the  French  Pres- 
ident, later  Napoleon  IIL,  came  to  view  the 
first  flowering  of  the  plant  that  had  been 
named  in  her  honour.  A  few  years  later 
seed  was  sent  to  America  and  the  late  Thomas 
Meehan  obtained  a  flowering  plant  in  1851, 
in  the  gardens  of  Caleb  Cope  at  Springbrook, 
near  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

At  the  present  time  there  are  recognised 
two  distinct  species  of  these  giant  water-lilies. 


*?s!^^; 


So  o 
^  c 
^  .> 


s  s 


t^  9- 


o  s; 


GROWING    THE    GIANT    VICTORIAS        I43 

One,  Victoria  regia,  is  a  native  of  the  more 
tropical  portion  of  South  America,  being 
found  principally  in  the  Amazon  region. 
The  other,  Victoria  Cruziana,  (the  V.  Trickeri 
of  the  trade)  occurs  in  the  Rio  Parana  and 
its  tributaries.  This  latter  situation  being 
comparatively  cool,  V.  Cruziana  has  shown 
itself  far  better  adapted  to  outdoor  culture 
than  the  V.  regia.  Besides  this  physiological 
difference  there  are  a  number  of  morpholog- 
ical distinctions.  Older  plants  of  the  two 
species  may  be  most  readily  distinguished 
by  the  sepals,  which  in  the  regia  are  spiny 
almost,  or  quite,  to  the  tip,  while  the  sepals 
of  Cruziana  are  smooth,  except  at  the  base. 
Further  differences  are  shown  in  the  leaf 
colouring. 

In  the  earlier  stages,  the  upper  surface  of 
the  young  leaves  of  the  Cruziana  appears 
bright  green  and  seems  to  be  divided  by  a 
network  of  depressed  reddish-coloured  veins 
into  a  more  or  less  concentric  arrangement  of 
quadi angular  elevations.  This  concentric 
arrangement  becomes  an  apparent  radial  one 


144  WATER-LILIES 

in  the  young  leaves  of  regia,  and  their  upper 
surfaces  possess  a  very  characteristic  reddish- 
purple  colour,  except  for  some  thin  lines 
of  bright  green  tissue  bordering  chiefly 
the  radial  veins  near  the  centre  of  the  leaf. 
In  the  young  leaves  of  Cruziana  this  tissue 
is  of  a  dark  red  hue. 

There  are  also  diflFerences  in  the  under- 
surfaces  of  the  leaves:  those  of  the  young 
Cruziana  being  green  with  an  occasional 
purple  tinge,  while  those  of  the  young  regia 
are  a  pronounced  red-purple.  During  the 
later  development  the  leaves  of  regia  have 
a  more  robust  appearance,  though  the  for- 
mation of  the  upstanding  margins  begins 
earHer  in  the  season  with  Cruziana. 

Even  in  our  northern  climate  both  species 
produce  fruit,  which,  attaining  half  the  size 
of  a  man's  head,  contains  numerous  seeds, 
each  about  the  size  of  a  large  pea  and  brown- 
ish in  colour.  These  ordinarily  retail  at 
twenty-five  cents  apiece  and  may  be  obtained 
from  any  reputable  seed-house.  They  are 
sent  out  in  small  glass  tubes  filled  with  water. 


GROWING    THE    GIANT    VICTORIAS        I45 

Keeping  the  seed  very  moist,  preferably  in 
water  of  not  less  than  60°  F.,  is  essential  to 
their  vitality;  and  it  is  to  the  neglect  or 
ignorance  of  this  little  detail  that  the  failures 
incident  to  the  first  attempts  to  introduce  the 
Victoria  must  be  ascribed.  The  seed  should 
be  procured  and  sown  four  months  before  the 
time  of  planting  out,  that  is  to  say,  February 
first  or  even  earlier.  It  can  be  sown  at  once, 
using  for  this  purpose  a  pan  or  pot  three- 
fourths  full  of  heavy  loam,  depositing  the 
seeds  on  top  of  the  soil.  The  pot  must  now 
be  placed  in  a  tank  in  the  greenhouse  with 
about  three  inches  of  water  over  the  top  of  the 
seed  bed.  Seed  of  regia  requires  a  tem- 
perature of  about  85-90°  F.,  to  obtain  which 
a  device  similar  to  the  one  used  for  raising 
the  temperature  in  the  tank  in  which  the  seed 
of  tropical  nymphaeas  is  germinating,  can 
be  used.  For  the  seed  of  Cruziana  so  high  a 
temperature  is  injurious,  60°  to  70°  F.  being 
sufficient. . 

Germination  may  take  place  in  a  week  or 
ten  days,  but  the  greater  number  of  the  seeds 


146  WATER-LILIES 

will  take  at  least  a  month  and  many  may  not 
germinate  at  all.  The  first  sign  of  germina- 
tion is  the  splitting  of  the  brownish  seed-coat 
from  which,  shortly,  the  young  root  is  pro- 
truded. In  a  Httle  while  the  first  thread-like 
leaf  makes  its  appearance  to  be  followed  by  a 
similar  one.  The  third  leaf  shows  an  indica- 
tion of  a  blade,  but  is  arrow-shaped. 

At  this  stage  transplant  the  seedlings  to 
two-and-one-half  to  three  inch  pots,  using  a 
heavy  loam  free  from  the  admixture  of  sand 
or  leaf-mould,  and  keeping  the  plant  under 
water  all  the  time.  Repot  when  the  first 
floating  leaf  appears  and  keep  on  repotting 
with  larger  sized  pots  or  pans  just  as  in  the 
case  of  the  nymphaeas.  Both  species  are 
treated  in  the  same  way  except  that  through- 
out V.  Cruziana  requires  a  temperature  20°  F. 
lower. 

Even  when  15-inch  pans  have  been  used 
it  will  often  happen  that  the  roots  become 
too  numerous  for  their  receptacles  and  pro- 
trude into  the  water.  While  this  is  no  cause 
for  worry,  it  is  better  in  such  cases  to  use 


GROWING    THE    GIANT    VICTORIAS        I47 

larger  pans.  Besides  this  repotting,  as  they 
grow,  the  young  Victorias  require  but  little 
care.  It  is  advisable  to  keep  them  clean  and 
free  from  insects  and  algal  growth.  Ordi- 
narily, flushing  with  a  garden  hose  will  meet  all 
requirements,  though  in  extreme  cases  the 
use  of  a  bath  sponge  of  fine  quality  —  a  so- 
called  Turkish  sponge  —  will  have  to  be 
resorted  to.  Should  the  sun  become  too 
strong,  which  is  liable  to  happen  especially 
during  the  last  days  which  the  plants  spend 
in  the  greenhouse,  shade  must  be  provided, 
either  by  whitewashing  the  glass  or  by  means 
of  cloth  or  lath  frames  which  can  be  used 
during  the  middle  of  the  day. 

If  one  does  not  care  to  take  the  risks  of 
growing  Victorias  from  seed,  young  plants 
can  be  obtained  from  the  larger  horticultural 
establishments  at  from  $5  to  ^10  each. 
Shipped  in  their  own  pots  and  protected  by  a 
packing  case,  they  arrive  in  very  fair  con- 
dition, provided  the  distance  be  not  too  great, 
a  journey  of  more  than  three  days  being 
liable  to  produce  unfavourable  results.     On 


148  WATER-LILIES 

arrival  piace  the  plants  in  a  shaded  tank, 
the  water  in  which  has  a  temperature  slightly 
higher  than  that  prevailing  in  the  interior  of 
the  packing  case.  During  the  next  few  days 
gradually  raise  the  temperature  to  the  normal 
and  the  plant  will  quickly  respond.  Under 
these  conditions  the  plants  remain  till  the 
time  of  planting. 

By  the  time  the  plants  are  about  four 
months  old,  they  will  have  passed  through  the 
stages  of  their  career  most  fraught  with  those 
dangers  which  we  can  avert  by  constant  care 
and  watchfulness,  and  are  old  enough  to 
shift  for  themselves.  In  a  cHmate  like  that 
of  New  Orleans,  La.,  planting  out  in  the  pond 
where  they  are  to  grow  during  the  summer  is 
all  that  is  then  necessary.  In  a  more  tem- 
perate region  a  few  extra  precautions  are 
yet  demanded  for  Victoria  regia,  for,  though 
both  species  may  be  grown  out  of  doors,  only 
the  V.  Cruziana  will  do  its  best  in  a  cool  pond. 
At  Philadelphia,  for  instance,  plants  of  this 
species  may  be  put  outdoors  in  shallow  sunny 
pools   in   June.     V.   Cruziana   even   perfects 


GROWING   THE    GIANT    VICTORIAS        I49 

seeds,  and  young  plants  have  been  grown 
from  self-sown  seeds  at  Riverton,  N.  J. 
They  bloomed  late  in  August  and  September 
but  did  not  again  ripen  seed. 

For  regia,  a  heated  pond,  though  not 
absolutely  essential,  is  a  desideratum  if  large 
leaves  and  numerous  flowers  are  expected. 
Seedlings  of  Cruziana  may  be  planted  out, 
in  a  climate  like  that  of  St.  Louis,  about  May 
20th,  provided  the  condition  of  the  weather 
is  favourable.  In  more  northern  regions 
planting  out  should  be  delayed  for  at  least 
two  weeks.  Such  plants  should  be  in  bloom 
by  July. 

Before  planting  regia,  the  ponds  prepared 
according  to  the  directions  given  elsewhere 
must  be  cleaned  and  levelled.  Unless  a 
concrete  pit  has  been  provided,  special 
provision  must  be  made  for  each  plant  by 
digging  a  hole  about  four  feet  square  and  two 
feet  deep  and  filling  in  with  a  mixture  of  three 
parts  old  sod-soil  and  one  part  thoroughly 
rotted  cow  manure.  Four  days  before  plant- 
ing about  six  inches  of  water  is  let  into  this 


150  WATER-LILIES 

inner  pond  and  at  once  a  beginning  is  made 
with  heating  it  to  the  required  temperature 
by  means  of  the  heating  plant  provided.  The 
temperature  should  be  80°  F.  in  the  morning, 
while  the  sun,  through  the  day,  may  raise  it 
to  90°  or  even  100°  F. 

Once  this  temperature  has  been  acquired 
by  the  water  and  provided  the  weather  is 
seasonable,  a  beginning  can  be  made  with 
planting.  The  greatest  care  must  be  exer- 
cised in  removing  the  plants  from  the  pots, 
since  the  roots  must  not  be  injured  under  any 
circumstances.  If  there  be  any  difficulty 
at  all  about  removing  the  plant,  break  the 
pot  —  it's  a  good  deal  cheaper  than  a  plant. 
Having  successfully  removed  the  Victoria 
seedling,  make  a  hole  in  the  soil  which  has 
been  heaped  up  above  the  pit  and  carefully 
plunge  the  plant  up  to  the  neck  in  the  soil, 
afterward  pressing  the  soil  firmly  on  the  roots. 
Then  a  little  sand  can  be  strewn  over  the 
surface  of  the  compost.  This  is  very  helpful 
in  keeping  down  any  vegetable  matter  which 
might  float  and  make  the  surface  of  the  pond 


GROWING    THE    GIANT    VICTORIAS        15I 

unsightly.  If  the  proper  precautions  have 
been  taken  the  plant  will  thrive. 

A  little  scum  will  rise  to  the  surface  in  even 
the  most  carefully  planted  ponds.  This 
must  be  flushed  off.  It  may  happen  that  two 
or  three  days  after  planting  the  entire  plant 
and  a  goodly  portion  of  the  soil  rises  to  the 
surface  of  the  pond!  This  is  invariably  due 
to  the  fact  that  the  manure  used  in  the  com- 
post was  insufficiently  rotted,  and  that  under 
the  influence  of  the  increased  temperature  a 
large  amount  of  gas  was  generated  by  the 
decomposing  matter.  The  only  safeguard  is 
the  use  of  the  most  thoroughly  rotted  cow 
manure.  Should  it  occur,  there  is  nothing  to 
do  but  to  repeat  the  entire  operation  of  plant- 
ing, the  young  plant  being  temporarily  re- 
turned to  its  old  quarters,  care  being  taken 
to  disturb  as  little  as  possible  any  soil  which 
may  be  clinging  to  the  roots. 

Planting  completed,  nothing  remains  to  be 
done  other  than  keeping  watch  on  the  tem- 
perature and  maintaining  the  water  at  its 
proper  level.     As  the  plant  grows  older  the 


152  WATER-LILIES 

depth  of  water  must  be  increased.  Ordi- 
narily this  amounts  to  about  one  inch  every 
three  or  four  days.  Finally  the  water-level 
should  be  about  eighteen  inches  above  the 
crown  of  the  plant. 

If  there  should  be  a  decided  fall  in  the 
temperature  of  the  atmosphere  during  the 
first  few  days  after  planting  special  arrange- 
ments, such  as  screening,  must  be  made  to 
protect   the  young   plants. 

By  the  end  of  July  the  plant  will  have 
grown  to  such  an  extent  that  it  needs  the 
freedom  of  the  outer  pond,  as  up  to  this  time 
its  growth  is  confined  to  the  inner  tank.  The 
water-level  must  be  raised  to  such  an  extent 
that  the  inner  and  outer  basin  become  as  one. 
The  heating  of  the  inner  basin  is  continued 
as  before. 

The  raising  of  the  water  level  must  be  as 
gradual  as  before.  Having  raised  it  first  of  all 
an  inch  above  the  rim  of  the  inner  basin,  it  is 
increased  till  the  desired  height  of  the  water 
has  been  reached,  that  is  to  say,  about  twenty- 
four  inches  above  the  crown  of  the  Victoria. 


GROWING    THE    GIANT    VICTORIAS        153 

The  seed  of  the  Victoria  takes  much  longer 
to  ripen  than  does  that  of  nymphaeas.  For 
this  reason  the  flower  which  is  to  produce  it 
must  be  selected  early  in  the  season.  Since 
those  first  to  appear  are  not  always  well 
formed,  it  is  best  not  to  use  them  but  to 
wait  for,  say  the  fourth  flower.  Always 
select  a  good-sized  and  perfectly  developed 
blossom  for  this  purpose.  On  the  morning 
of  the  third  day  after  opening,  surround  it 
with  a  muslin  bag  to  prevent  the  possible  loss 
of  seed.  After  this,  do  not  allow  other  seed 
pods  to  develop,  for  a  time  at  least,  cutting 
all  blossoms  after  their  beauty  has  faded. 
After  about  two  weeks  it  will  be  safe  to  allow 
another  blossom  to  perfect  a  seed  pod.  The 
seed  will  be  ripe  enough  for  gathering  in  ten, 
or  better  twelve  weeks,  after  the  flower  has 
disappeared  under  the  water  and  when  the 
flower-stalk  begins  to  decay.  But  no  harm 
will  be  done  by  deferring  the  harvesting  until 
fall,  at  the  time  of  the  removal  of  the  entire 
plant  for  the  winter  clearance. 


Lotuses,  Water   Hyacinths    and    Other 
Choice  Aquatics 


I5S 


CHAPTER  XI 

Lotuses,  Water  Hyacinths  and 
Other  Choice  Aquatics 

No  MORE  stately  plants  adorn  our  gardens 
than  the  lotuses.  Their  great,  circular,  pel- 
tate leaves  stand  three  or  four  feet  above  the 
water  on  stiff,  slender,  stalks.  The  leaf  is 
often  a  little  funnel-shaped,  so  that  it  catches 
the  rain  in  a  silvery  pool  at  the  centre.  The 
surface  is  never  wetted.  Then,  as  the  leaves 
bow  before  a  breath  of  wind,  each  empties 
its  cup  of  water  into  the  pond.  The  flowers 
stand  as  high  as,  or  higher  than,  the  leaves. 
They  are  eight  to  twelve  inches  across,  with 
many  broad  petals  which  stand  out  in  all 
directions. 

The  American  lotus  (Nelumho  lutea)  is 
native  from  New  Jersey  to  Ontario,  Minne- 
sota, and  Texas.  Leaves  bigger  around  than 
a  wash  tub  and  flowers  fully  ten  inches  in 

157 


158  WATER-LILIES 

diameter  may  be  gathered.  The  flower  is 
creamy  white  or  of  a  very  pale  yellow.  It  is 
not  a  vigorous  plant  in  cultivation,  but  will 
do  nicely  if  kept  free  from  competition.  It 
is  quickly  crowded  out  by  its  cousin,  the  pink 
or  Indian  lotus  (often  and  wrongly  called 
Egyptian  lotus),  Nelumho  nucifera,  known 
to  dealers  as  Nelumbium  spectosum. 

The  last  named  species  resembles  the 
former  in  all  respects,  except  colour  of  flower 
and  vigour  of  growth.  The  flowers  of  the 
latter  are  larger  than  those  of  the  former, 
and  each  petal  is  tipped  with  rosy  pink.  At 
the  centre  of  the  flower  is  a  big  yellow  recep- 
tacle Hke  an  inverted  cone,  surrounded  by 
innumerable  yellow  stamens.  These  great 
blossoms  are  among  the  noblest  products  of 
the  vegetable  world.  They  fairly  glow  in 
the  morning  sunshine.  In  grace,  dignity, 
and  repose  they  are  not  equalled.  No 
wonder  is  it  that  they  figure  symbolically  in 
the  ever-repeated  Buddhist  prayer,  *' Om  I 
mani  padme  hum!'' — ("O!  the  jewel  in  the 
lotus-flower!  ") 


LOTUSES,  WATER  HYACINTHS  I59 

The  pink  lotus  is  perfectly  hardy  at  New 
York.  It  once  grew  in  great  profusion  in 
a  mill  dam  at  Bordentown,  N.  J.,  where  it 
was  introduced  by  E.  D.  Sturtevant.  The 
roots  must  be  protected  from  freezing  by 
means  of  litter  or  a  sufficient  depth  of  water. 

Several  varieties  of  the  pink  lotus  have 
been  produced  in  Japan,  and  are  also  avail- 
able here.  Rosea  has  deep  rose-coloured 
petals;  there  is  also  a  double  form  of  this. 
Shiroman  is  a  nearly  white,  very  double  form. 
Kinshiren  is  also  very  double,  and  is  of 
medium  stature  and  free  flowering.  This  last 
kind  has  been  grown  successfully  in  a  half 
barrel.  It  produced  three  flowers  the  first 
year,  but  failed  to  get  through  the  winter  alive. 

Lotuses  grow  by  long  rootstocks,  which 
may  run  as  much  as  forty  feet  in  a  season! 
They  should  be  planted  in  very  rich  earth, 
under  four  to  twelve  inches  of  water.  The 
bed  should  be  well  closed  in  by  boards  or  a 
wall.  Each  year  give  the  bed  a  good  top- 
dressing  of  rotted  manure.  At  intervals  of 
three  to  five  years  the  bed  should  be  dug  over 


l6o  WATER-LILIES 

and  the  plants  reset.  In  autumn  each  rhi- 
zome produces  one  or  more  long  tubers,  much 
the  shape  and  size  of  a  banana.  These  are 
the  parts  to  transplant.  They  are  moved  in 
the  spring  when  they  are  starting  to  grow,  say 
about  the  first  of  May.  Some  of  the  Japanese 
lotuses  are  less  hardy  than  others,  but  none 
stand  the  winters  as  well  as  the  pure  species 
N.  lutea  and  N.  nucifera. 

THE    STATELIEST   AQUATIC    "  GRASS '' 

It  is  no  wonder  that  the  plant  from  which 
the  ancients  made  their  papyrus  figured  so 
prominently  in  Egyptian  art,  for  it  is  probably 
the  stateliest  "grass"  in  the  world.  (It  is 
really  a  sedge.)  This  Egyptian  paper  plant 
{Cyperus  Papyrus)  is  known  to  dealers  in 
greenhouse  plants  as  Papyrus  antiquorum. 

It  grows  with  its  roots  just  submerged, 
and  sends  up  stalks  four  to  six  feet  high, 
with  a  tuft  of  fine  grass-like  leaves  a  foot 
long  at  the  top  of  each  stalk.  It  is  like  a 
huge    umbrella-plant    with    extremely    fine 


^**->> 


.^"^ili 


Plate  XXV.— THE  BEAUTIFUL,  BUT  OVERWHELMING  WATER 
HYACINTHS 


Beginning  with  a  few  plants,  Eichhornia  azurea  multiplies  so  rapidly 
that  the  whole  Dond   is   soon  covered.     But  in  the  fall  they  all  die 


LOTUSES,  WATER  HYACINTHS  l6l 

leaves.  From  long  association  it  seems  to 
belong  beside  the  pink  lotus.  Being  tender, 
it  is  grown  in  tubs.  In  autumn  these  are 
taken  up  after  the  first  frost.  The  plants 
may  be  kept  growing  in  a  warm,  well-lighted 
tank,  or  they  may  be  stored  in  a  cool  place, 
provided  they  are  kept  wet.  The  papyrus 
needs  no  season  of  rest,  and  produces  incon- 
spicuous flowers. 

There  is  a  large  kind  of  umbrella-plant 
(Cyperus  alternifolius)  which  grows  like  the 
Papyrus  and  receives  the  same  treatment. 
It  is  wholly  a  foliage  plant.  The  common 
little  umbrella-plant  of  our  houses  (Cyperus 
alternifolius^  var.  gracilis)  will  also  do  equally 
well  in  the  water  garden.  It  is  very  easily 
propagated  by  division  of  the  roots,  or  by 
planting  the  "umbrella''  part  of  a  leaf,  with 
the  stem  cut  off,  in  wet  earth  or  in  water. 
There  are  several  varieties  of  this,  differing  in 
stature  and  in  fineness  of  leaf. 

From  Florida  comes  another  tall  plant, 
Thalia  divaricata^  which  deserves  notice. 
It  has  broad,  oval  leaves  a  foot  long.     In 


1 62  WATER-LILIES 

character  they  resemble  canna  leaves,  but 
they  are  borne  on  long  stalks  two  feet  above 
the  water.  The  insignificant  flowers  come 
in  open  panicles  on  tall  wand-Hke  stems. 
The  plant  has  a  loose,  easy,  picturesque 
appearance.  It  grows  about  six  feet  tall, 
and  will  flourish  well  in  a  tub  the  size  of  a 
half  barrel.  It  is  wintered  in  a  warm  tank, 
or,  half  dry,  in  a  cool  house. 

THE    WATER   HYACINTHS 

Of  the  plants  necessary  for  the  water 
garden,  I  should  place  next  to  the  lotus  the 
water  hyacinth  (Eichhornia  speciosd).  It 
makes  dense  beds  of  dark  green  foHage  from 
which  project  large  spikes  of  rich  violet 
flowers.  The  plant  floats  freely  on  the 
surface  of  the  water,  or  the  roots  will  gladly 
catch  in  the  mud.  It  will  sometimes  do 
equally  well  in  one  inch  or  in  two  feet  of  water. 
The  leaves  are  from  three  to  five  inches  in 
diameter,  on  stalks  two  to  eight  inches  tall. 
The  floating  plants  keep  themselves  up  by 


LOTUSES,  WATER  HYACINTHS  163 

making  a  big  swollen  air-tissue  at  the  base 
of  each  leaf-stalk,  while  rooted  plants  have 
taller  and  more  slender  stalks.  The  spikes 
are  four  to  eight  inches  long,  with  closely 
set  flowers,  each  two  inches  or  more  in 
diameter.  The  upper  petal  is  larger  than  the 
others  and  has  a  bright  yellow  eye  or  spot. 

The  water  hyacinth  spreads  very  rapidly, 
but  may  be  easily  kept  in  place  by  a  floating 
wooden  pen.  Nail  together  some  sticks  or 
barrel  hoops  in  the  desired  size  and  shape. 
They  will  float  naturally,  but  should  be 
fastened  to  stone  anchors  or  to  stakes  driven 
into  the  bottom  of  the  pond.  The  plant  is 
tender  and  must  be  wintered  in  a  warm 
tank. 

THE    BRILLIANT  YELLOW   WATER   POPPY 

The  next  plant  which  every  one  should 
have  in  his  water  garden  is  the  water  poppy 
{Limnocharis  Humholdtii).  Plant  it  in  the 
earth  at  the  edge  of  the  pond,  or  in  a  tub 
supported  on  stones  in  the  deeper  water,  so 


164  WATER-LILIES 

as  to  bring  the  roots  near  the  surface.  It 
sends  out  copious  runners,  two  or  three  feet 
long,  on  which  are  many  round,  dark  green 
leaves,  about  twice  as  big  as  a  dollar.  Over 
and  among  the  shiny  foHage  rise  innumerable 
brilliant  yellow  flowers  as  big  as  the  leaves. 
They  look  a  good  deal  like  California  poppies 
(Eschscholtzia).  Each  flower  lasts  only  one 
day,  but  the  succession  is  never  faiHng.  A 
dozen  will  often  be  seen  at  a  time  in  one 
corner  of  a  4-foot  tank.  The  water  poppy  is 
tender  and  must  be  kept  growing  throughout 
the  winter  in  a  warm  tank. 

SOME  FASCINATING  SUBMERGED  PLANTS 

Not  a  little  beauty  is  added  to  the  water 
garden  by  wholly,  or  almost  wholly,  sub- 
merged plants.  What  is  more  fascinating 
than  to  look  down  through  crystal  waters 
into  waving  tufts  of  green  and  purple  foliage 
fanned  by  the  Hthe  movements  of  orna- 
mental fishes  ?  Nearly  all  submerged  leaves 
are    divided    into    thread-like    lobes.     So    it 


LOTUSES,  WATER  HYACINTHS  165 

IS  with  the  cabomba  (C.  CaroUniana).  This 
makes  luxuriant  green  plumes,  growing  in 
great  bunches  one  to  two  feet  long.  It  is 
hardy  in  two  feet  of  water  at  Philadelphia, 
and  grows  wild  near  Washington,  D.  C. 
It  is  the  commonest  plant  sold  for  aquaria. 

The  bladderworts  are  also  beautiful  for 
under-water  effects,  especially  the  purple 
one  (Utricularia  purpurea).  It  grows  in  big 
loose  tufts,  extremely  soft  and  fine.  Each 
leaf  bears  a  number  of  tiny  bladders  which 
catch  small  insects  for  the  nourishment  of 
the  plant.  The  common  bladderwort  (U. 
vulgaris)  and  the  inflated  bladderwort 
{U.  inflata)  float  freely  in  the  water,  usually 
near  or  at  the  surface.  They  have  yellow 
flowers.  All  the  aquatic  bladderworts  re- 
quire very  still  water,  in  both  summer  or 
winter. 

FOR   BORDERING    PONDS 

A  good  foliage  plant  for  the  border  and 
for  the  decoration  of  vases  and  aquaria   is 


1 66  WATER-LILIES 

the  parrot's  feather  {Myriophyllum  proser- 
pinacoides).  It  grows  in  slender  feathery 
plumes.  The  leaves  are  very  many,  finely 
divided,  and  arranged  on  all  sides  of  the 
stem.  It  grows  rooted  in  earth  at  the  edge 
of  the  pond,  and  spreads  out  in  a  broad 
feathery  cushion  of  bright  green.  In  autumn 
take  in  a  few  sprigs  and  put  the  ends  in  a 
bottle  of  water.  It  will  grow  all  winter  like 
an  "air-plant"  without  earth,  but  will  do 
better  with  some  soil  in  the  bottle.  I  know 
a  shallow,  sheltered  pond  of  spring  water 
near  Philadelphia  where  it  lives  out  of  doors 
from  year  to  year. 

We  may  also  have  along  the  margin  of 
the  pond  species  of  MarsiHa.  It  is  a  water- 
fern,  but  does  not  resemble  any  other  fern. 
The  leaves  float  or  stand  erect  and  look  like 
four-leaved  clovers.  It  is  a  nice  harmless 
little  thing.  The  European  MarsiHa  (M. 
quadrifolid)  is  quite  hardy  in  New  England. 

A  really  fern-like  water-fern  is  the  horn  fern 
(Ceratopteris  thalictroides).  It  is  well  known 
in  European  botanical  gardens,  but  is  rarely 


LOTUSES,  WATER  HYACINTHS  167 

seen  in  America.  The  sterile  leaves  are 
divided  into  many  small  oval  segments, 
making  a  feathery  light  green  frond  ten  or 
fifteen  inches  high.  When  one  of  these  leaves 
falls  over  into  the  water,  a  young  plant  springs 
from  every  axil  and  cleft.  The  fruiting  fronds 
have  filiform  segments,  with  revolute  margins. 
The  innumerable  spores  germinate  freely  in 
water  or  on  wet  earth.  It  is  in  this  way  that 
new  plants  are  best  secured.  The  plant  is 
naturally  an  annual,  but  it  may  be  wintered 
in  a  warm  tank.  Set  it  out  in  shallow  water 
(one  to  four  inches  deep)  after  warm  weather 
is  estabHshed. 

Many  curiosities  may  be  added  to  the 
water  garden,  some  of  which  also  have  a 
real  place  in  the  general  effect  of  the  garden. 
The  golden  club  (Orontium  aquaticum)  is 
interesting  for  its  yellow  finger-like  blooms, 
which  come  out  soon  after  the  ice  melts. 
The  spotted  callas  {Richardia  alho-maculata) 
may  adorn  the  margin  here  and  there.  The 
native  pickerel-weed  (Pontederia  cordata)  and 
the    lizard's    tail    {Saururus    cernuus),    with 


1 68  WATER-LILIES 

flower  spikes  of  blue  and  white  respectively, 
are  useful  in  some  places.  On  the  water's 
surface  the  floating  moss  {Azolla  Caroliniana), 
the  duckweeds  (Lemna),  and  the  salvinia 
{S.  natans)  are  interesting. 

Where  the  lawn  dips  to  the  water's  edge 
a  clump  of  swamp  rose  mallows  {Hibiscus 
Moscheutos)  will  bloom.  This  is  well  known 
as  an  ordinary  garden  plant.  The  great 
open  flowers,  white  with  red  centre,  or  pink, 
are  often  five  inches  across.  They  bloom 
very  freely  through  the  middle  and  late  sum- 
mer. Japanese  iris,  too,  in  all  their  multi- 
pHcity  of  splendour,  flourish  near  the  margin 
of  the  pond. 

It  would  lead  us  too  far  to  speak  of  the 
riches  that  the  borders  of  the  pond  will  har- 
bour. Only  in  passing  can  we  glance  at  two 
or  three  nooks  beside  our  way.  Here  in  a 
little  bay  a  stately  group  of  cat-tails  (Typha), 
narrow-leaved  and  broad,  is  waving.  Be- 
hind them  a  bushy  brake  of  ferns  (Pteris  and 
Woodwardia),  willows  and  the  swamp  magno- 
lia  (M.  glauca)  leads  on  into  the  woodland. 


LOTUSES,  WATER  HYACINTHS  1 69 

This  boggy  place  begins  with  the  common 
arrow-leaf  {Sagittaria  latifoUa).  As  it  wades 
out  into  deeper  water  its  leaves  are  as  thin  as 
grass,  but  they  get  broad  and  oval  where  their 
stalks  are  not  at  all  submerged.  Among  the 
grasses,  and  the  curious  horsetails,  rise  the 
stalks  of  great  lobeHa  (L.  syphilitica),  the 
cardinal  flower  {Lobelia  cardinalis),  and 
their  hybrids.  What  is  more  brilliant  than 
the  spike  of  the  cardinal  flower  .^  And  beside 
them  stand  the  aristocratic  family  of  the 
flowering  ferns  (Osmunda)  —  noble  ferns  of 
great  size  and  hardiness.  Or  perhaps  in 
tropical  luxuriance  beside  our  Nymphcea 
gigantea,  the  bog  is  decorated  with  banana 
(Musa  ensete),  the  giant  rhubarb-Hke  leaves  of 
the  Gunnera  (G.  manicata  and  G.  Chilensis), 
shoots  of  Paulownia  {P.  imperial  is),  cannas 
and  the  like.  On  yonder  rocky  promontory 
a  ruddy  Japanese  maple  {Acer  palmatum, 
var.  atropurpureum)  hangs  over  the  water, 
while  in  crevices  of  the  rock  the  dainty 
maidenhair  fern  {Adiantum  pedatum)  is 
growing. 


Water  Gardens  Under  Glass 


LIBRARY. 

DiDision  o§  Horticulture, 

"  ■      -Agriculture. 


j»« 


CHAPTER  XII 

Water  Gardens  Under  Glass 

There  is  no  practical  difference  between 
growing  water-lilies  under  glass  and  in  the 
open.  Under  glass  you  can  begin  a  little 
earlier  — that  is  all.  Fortunately,  in  nearly 
all  sections  of  the  country,  there  is  a  suffi- 
ciently long  period  of  warm  summer  weather 
to  enable  us  to  grow  all  the  nymphaeas,  and 
at  least  the  hardier  of  the  two  Victorias,  in  the 
open  air.  In  the  colder  sections,  however, 
it  becomes  necessary  to  provide  greenhouse 
protection  for  the  tender  species  of  the 
former,  and  perhaps  for  both  the  Victorias. 
Naturally,  such  houses  have  to  be  built  with 
special  reference  to  the  purpose,  and  they 
are  obviously  expensive,  running  into  several 
thousand  dollars. 

Formerly    the    circular   or   octagon    shape 
was  looked  upon  with  most  favour  for  the 
173 


174  WATER-LILIES 

aquatic  house;  but  lately  we  have  broken 
away  from  this  tradition.  A  quadrangular 
greenhouse  is  more  economical  in  construction 
and  is  really  more  convenient,  as  besides  the 
central  main  pond  or  tank  its  form  allows 
for  the  addition  of  numerous  smaller  tanks 
which  can  be  utilised  for  the  growing  of  bog- 
plants,  floating  aquatics,  etc. 

The  size  of  the  largest  houses  which  exist 
at  the  present  time  is  such  as  to  give  a  floor 
space  of  about  4,000  square  feet.  This  is  a 
good  size.  Water  plants  never  appear  to 
advantage  when  crowded  together  in  a  small 
space,  and  moreover  they  require  ample 
room  for  their  development.  They  are  more 
sensitive  in  this  regard  than  terrestrial  plants. 
The  Amazon  water-lily  ( Victoria  regia)  is  the 
one  species  that  may  call  for  the  special 
house,  and  a  building  in  which  the  width  is 
to  the  length  as  8:13  will  be  of  proper  relation, 
and  the  smallest  tank  that  should  be  made  for 
one  plant  is  20  x  20  feet.  The  arrangement 
of  the  interior  requires  considerable  foresight. 
Convention  places  the  large  Victoria  basin  in 


WATER  GARDENS   UNDER  GLASS  I75 

the  centre  and  smaller  basins  around  the  sides. 
The  latter,  since  they  are  to  accommodate 
plants  of  small  stature,  need  be  but  fifteen 
inches  deep,  though  it  is  well  to  have  some 
thirty  inches  deep  to  accommodate  Nelumbi- 
ums,  etc.  The  central  basin  has  at  the  sides 
a  depth  of  thirty  inches,  and  slopes  toward 
the  centre,  where  there  is  a  pit  to  accommo- 
date the  roots  of  the  Victoria.  Give  this  pit  a 
capacity  of  about  two  hundred  cubic  feet. 

For  heating  purposes  either  steam  or  hot 
water  can  be  used,  the  pipes  being  made 
to  pass  along  the  edges  of  both  the  larger  and 
the  smaller  basins.  The  Victoria  pit  has  a 
special  coil,  to  provide  extra  heat  for  the  roots 
and  to  permit  the  heating  of  the  small  amount 
of  water  which  must  surround  the  Victoria 
for  the  first  few  days  after  planting.  At 
first  the  water  temperature  must  be  QO^F. 
but  later,  when  the  plant  is  well  developed, 
and  the  tank  filled  with  water,  a  temperature 
of  8o°F.  will  sufl[ice.  The  air,  which  must  be 
kept  at  70°F.,  should  be  heated  by  a  pipe 
passing  under  the  ridge  of  the  roof.     Such  an 


176  WATER-LILIES 

arrangement  also  greatly  facilitates  rapid 
ventilation. 

For  the  water  supply  there  should  be  at 
least  two  taps  in  the  main  basin  both  fitted 
with  a  screw  attachment  for  hose  connection. 
Fountains  are  not  to  be  advocated.  They  take 
too  much  space  and  the  water  drops  are  likely 
to  cause  spotting  in  the  Nymphaea  blossoms. 

For  drainage  an  automatic  cone-Hd  pipe 
is  of  greatest  advantage.  At  least  two  lower 
holes  must  be  provided  so  that  in  the  early 
stages  the  water  level  can  be  kept  low,  and 
yet  the  pond  can  be  flushed.  A  large  drain, 
to  be  closed  during  the  summer,  is  placed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  Victoria  pond.  This 
enables  one  to  clean  the  pond  thoroughly 
after  the  removal  of  the  water  plants.  In- 
stead of  simply  running  off  the  water  from 
the  tanks  into  drains  it  will  be  found  advan- 
tageous to  allow  it  to  supplement  the  water 
in  an  out-of-door  pond  or  an  artificial  bog, 
both  intended  to  accommodate  hardier  plants 
and  which  can  be  located  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  greenhouse.     Even  the  hardier 


V-      C 


O    n 


^::= 

:^-^ 


f^te; 


WATER  GARDENS  UNDER  GLASS  1 77 

water   plants   are   very   grateful   for   a   little 
extra  heat  about  the  roots. 


AN    EARLY   BEGINNING 

Planting  under  glass  can  be  done  far  earlier 
than  in  the  open.  Even  in  Apn  a  beginning 
can  be  made,  though  only  with  the  nymphaeas. 
Since,  however,  the  Victoria  is  but  seldom 
ready  for  planting  out  earlier  than  the  first 
of  May,  it  is  well  to  wait  until  then.  First 
plant  the  Victoria,  and  when  you  are 
sure  it  has  a  good  start,  put  in  the  rest  of  the 
water-liHes.  SeedHngs  and  also  plants  raised 
from  tubers  and  root-stocks  that  have  been 
wintered,  can  be  started  into  growth  in  the 
side  tanks  in  the  growing  house. 

Concrete  walks  are  better  than  gravel 
walks  though  the  latter  may  present  a  better 
appearance.  But  it  is  a  good  deal  easier 
to  keep  the  former  clean  and  dry.  Never 
make  the  walks  too  narrow;  three  feet  is  a 
minimum,  and  in  larger  houses  they  can  well 
be  double  that  width.     It  is  very  necessary 


178  WATER-LILIES 

to  arrange  for  drainage  of  the  walks,  espe- 
cially if  of  concrete. 

For  the  best  type  of  aquatic  house  two 
doors,  one  at  each  end,  are  desirable.  One 
only  need  be  used  while  the  plants  are  in 
flower,  and  should  be  provided  with  a  vesti- 
bule, not  only  for  the  protection  of  visitors 
from  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  but 
also  for  the  protection  of  the  plants  themselves 
from  sudden  gusts  of  cold  wind.  The  other 
door,  because  it  is  to  be  used  in  the  spring  for 
the  bringing  in  of  the  soil  and  in  the  fall  for  the 
removal  of  the  old  plants,  etc.,  must  be  at  least 
six  feet  wide.  Though  perennial  in  its  native 
haunts,  the  Victoria  must  be  treated  as  an 
annual  when  grown  in  our  climate.  At- 
tempts to  keep  the  plant  a  second  year  have 
thus  far  been  most  unsatisfactory. 

During  the  fall  and  winter  the  Victoria 
house  offers  an  excellent  opportunity  for  the 
storing  of  perennials  and  woody  plants,  such 
as  crotons,  standard  fuchsias,  lantanas,  bay 
trees,  etc.,  which  during  the  summer  have 
graced  the  garden. 


Enemies  and  Friends 


179 


CHAPTER  XIII 
Enemies  and  Friends 

Water-lilies  growing  in  natural  ponds 
are  greatly  subject  to  the  attacks  of  various 
enemies,  especially  of  those  belonging  to  the 
animal  kingdom.  The  one  most  to  be 
dreaded  is  the  muskrat,  who,  if  unrestrained, 
will  feed  on  the  rhizomes  during  the  winter. 
He  has  a  preference  for  those  species  with 
the  least  fibrous  roots,  such  as  the  odorata 
group.  The  nelumbiums  also  fall  a  prey 
to  his  voracity.  And  what  they  use  for  food 
is  but  a  small  part  of  what  they  destroy,  for 
a  muskrat,  after  gnawing  off  a  large  piece 
of  the  rh-'zome,  will  drag  it  to  the  bank,  there 
to  eat  it  at  his  leisure,  and  leaving  it  thus 
exposed  it  is  surely  killed. 

So  great  a  plague  is  the  muskrat  that  one 
has  to  choose  between  harbouring  this 
criminal  or  growing  nymphaeas.     The   best 

i8i 


1 82  WATER-LILIES 

way  to  get  rid  of  him  is  by  means  of  traps, 
though  it  will  pay  anyone  with  many  water- 
lilies  to  employ  the  services  of  a  professional 
trapper.  Yet  even  then  a  few  muskrats 
may  be  left  or  come  in  from  the  outside,  just 
when  one  is  reasonably  satisfied  that  the  pest 
has  been  ehminated.  This  is  especially 
liable  to  be  the  case  where  the  ponds  are  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  other  natural  ponds  or 
of  a  river.  An  absolutely  safe  means  of  pro- 
tection against  these  marauders  is  to  place 
the  roots  in  large  shallow  boxes,  say  three  by 
four  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  which  are 
sunk  in  the  proper  places.  Having  filled 
the  boxes  with  soil  the  plants  are  placed  in 
their  proper  position  and  wide  slats  are 
nailed  over  the  top,  at  a  distance  of  about 
two  inches  from  each  other.  This  allows  the 
leaf  and  flower  buds  plenty  of  room  to  pass 
through,  while  it  prevents  Mr.  Muskrat  from 
getting  in. 

Another  enemy  to  be  guarded  against, 
though  at  a  different  time  of  the  year,  is  the 
snapping    turtle,    who,     delighting    in    the 


ENEMIES    AND    FRIENDS  183 

young  leaves  and  flower-buds,  eats  them  off 
nightly.  The  small  mud-turtles,  if  not  numer- 
ous, are  harmless,  though  it  is  well  not  to  let 
their  number  increase  too  greatly.  The  best 
method  of  guarding  against  them  is  seining, 
though  a  bounty  offered  to  the  small  boys  in 
the  neighbourhood  will  prove  very  efficacious. 

Sunfish  in  too  great  numbers  are  harmful 
because  they  eat  the  snails  which  do  not 
harm  the  older  plants  and  are  also  beneficial 
in  keeping  down  the  growth  of  algae.  The 
latter  may  become  obnoxious  in  the  summer. 
The  best  way  to  get  rid  of  them  is  by  tying  a 
bag  of  copper  sulphate  to  the  end  of  a  boat 
and  rowing  up  and  down  the  pond,  trailing 
the  bag  till  the  salt  is  entirely  dissolved.  For 
this  purpose  one  should  use  one  pound  of 
copper  sulphate  for  every  million  gallons 
of  water.  Where  the  pond  is  too  small 
to  allow  the  use  of  a  boat,  the  salt  can  be  tied 
in  a  bag  at  the  end  of  a  stick,  which  is  worked 
about  in  the  water  until  the  contents  are 
dissolved. 

Since  the  amount  of  copper  sulphate  (blue 


184  WATER-LILIES 

vitriol)  to  be  used  depends  upon  a  number 
of  factors,  such  as  the  particular  kind  of  or- 
ganism to  be  destroyed,  temperature,  tempo- 
rary hardness  of  the  water,  etc.,  the  reader 
had  best  consult  Bulletin  No.  76,  Bureau  of 
Plant  Industry,  U.  S.  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture, in  which  the  method  is  treated  in  detail. 
In  puddled  ponds  the  crawfish  may  be  a 
source  of  great  annoyance,  not  only  because 
they  cut  off  the  young  leaves  and  even  the 
buds,  but  also  because  they  bore  deep  holes 
through  the  bottom  of  the  pond,  practically 
turning  it  into  a  sieve.  Here  an  ounce  of 
prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of  cure.  At  the 
last  minute,  that  is  to  say,  six  or  seven  days 
before  planting,  nearly  empty  the  pond. 
Thousands  of  crawfish,  both  young  and  old 
will  be  seen.  It  is  sufficient  to  sprinkle 
tobacco  dust  plentifully.  This  is  effectual  in 
killing  all  crawfish,  and  all  other  animal  life, 
which  later  may  advantageously  be  replaced 
by  a  generous  supply  of  goldfish.  In  a  couple 
of  days  flush  the  pond  and  empty  it  once  more 
to  clean  it  out  and  to  repuddle  where  neces- 


ENEMIES    AND    FRIENDS  185 

sary.  If  this  operation  is  repeated  each  year, 
the  crawfish  never  become  a  source  of  serious 
danger  to  the  well-being  of  the  water  garden. 

In  other  artificial  ponds  none  of  the  above 
mentioned  enemies,  algae  perhaps  excepted, 
are  liable  to  become  serious.     But  there  are 
others,    particularly   those   belonging   to   the 
insect  world,  which  may  cause  trouble  in  any 
kind  of  pond.    One  of  these  is  the  leaf-miner, 
the      larva   of  which   channels   through   the 
leaf  between  the  upper  and  lower  skins.     It 
may  be  destroyed  by  spraying  with  kerosene 
emulsion    made    according   to   the    standard 
formula.     This  is  best  done  in  the  evening 
after  the  flowers  are  closed.     Unhappily,  the 
same  method  cannot  be  used  to  combat  the 
leaf-cutter  who  cuts  off  portions  of  the  leaves 
and  makes  a  sort  of  tent  of  them,  inside  of 
which  it  moves  about.     Later  in  the  season, 
especially,  this  larva  can  do  much  damage. 
The  remedies  suggested  are  lamp-traps  and 
picking  off  by  hand.  Dragonflies  and  frogs  are 
their    natural    enemies.     The    latter    should 
be  encouraged   by  every  means. 


1 86  WATER-LILIES 

Frequently  a  fungus  attacks  the  leaves  of 
water-lilies,  causing  the  leaf  to  become 
spotted  after  which  it  finally  decays.  A  fun- 
gicide, such  as  a  very  weak  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture, has  been  recommended  to  overcome  this. 

There  is  quite  another  fungus  that  attacks 
the  young  seedlings  just  after  they  have  been 
transplanted.  Here  again  prevention  is  better 
than  cure.  Strong  and  healthy  seedHngs 
appear  to  withstand  the  fungus  which  seems 
to  be  especially  prevalent  where  manure  has 
been  mixed  with  the  soil. 

The  snails  which  seem  so  greatly  to  enjoy 
their  existence  in  the  greenhouse  tanks  set 
aside  for  water-lilies  are  among  the  worst 
pests  during  the  earlier  stages  of  growth. 
Picking  off  by  hand  is  perhaps  the  best  remedy 
though  it  will  be  found  beneficial  to  keep  a 
few  fish  in  the  tanks.  Not  only  do  the  fish 
make  war  on  the  snails  but  they  also  destroy 
a  large  number  of  the  aphides  which  are 
found  in  large  numbers  on  the  young  plants. 
Syringing  the  plants  is  probably  the  best 
remedy. 


ENEMIES    AND    FRIENDS  187 

There  are  certain  water  plants  which 
have  a  tendency  to  take  possession  of  an  entire 
pond  and  need  keeping  within  bounds. 
Such  a  plant  is  the  water  chestnut  {Trapa 
natans).  Its  fruits,  provided  with  strong 
prongs,  lodge  in  the  debris  at  the  bottom  of 
the  ponds.  Often,  in  the  spring,  the  entire 
surface  of  a  large  pond  will  be  covered  with 
young  plants.  Even  their  removal  in  boat- 
loads will  not  suffice  to  get  rid  of  the  plant 
which,  of  comparatively  recent  introduction, 
has  now  become  a  pest  in  some  localities. 
Removal  does  no  good  as  there  are  always 
more  seeds  on  the  bottom  of  the  pond. 

It  is  inadvisable  to  use  this  particular  plant, 
as  a  cultivated  one,  in  any  but  concrete  ponds, 
which,  at  least,  can  be  thoroughly  cleaned 
when  the  need  arises. 

During  the  winter  the  tubers  of  the  various 
water-lilies  that  are  stored  in  the  greenhouse, 
must  be  carefully  protected  from  the  depre- 
dations of  rats  and  mice  that  find  them  most 
delectable  morsels. 


Pond    Surroundings,   Windbreaks   and 
Accessory  Plants 


189 


CHAPTER  XIV 

Pond    Surroundings,   Windbreaks    and 
Accessory  Plants 

The  aquatic  garden  must  be  protected 
from  the  wind  and,  unless  some  form  of  wind- 
break is  already  in  existence,one  must  be  made, 
especially  if  the  site  is  near  the  sea  or  a  lake,  or 
on  an  open  plain.  The  windbreak  also  pre- 
vents the  too  rapid  evaporation  of  the  water 
which  is  likely  to  be  very  injurious  to  plants 
near  the  margin. 

HEDGES  FOR  SMALL  PONDS 

For  smaller  ponds  a  low  hedge  of  privet  will 
answer  all  requirements,  but  for  a  large  pond, 
or  where  there  is  a  series  of  successive  ponds, 
the  windbreaks  must  be  composed  of  trees, 
supplemented  by  groups  of  shrubbery.  In 
any  case  the  hedge  must  be  placed  so  that  the 
191 


192  WATER-LILIES 

ponds  are  in  no  way  shaded.  A  distance  of 
at  least  five  hundred  yards  from  the  pond  is 
necessary  for  the  windbreaks. 

CONIFERS    FOR  WINDBREAKS 

Evergreens  form  the  most  important  class 
of  windbreaks.  Among  them,  the  Norway 
spruce  {Picea  excelsa)  is  universally  recog- 
nised as  the  best  for  this  purpose.  Not  only 
is  it  perfectly  hardy  in  the  northern  United 
States  and  adapted  to  almost  any  soil,  but 
its  symmetrical  proportions  and  rapid  growth 
recommend  it  especially.  Provided  the  trees 
are  trimmed  yearly,  this  spruce  can  be  used 
equally  well  as  a  hedge. 

Left  to  itself,  the  Norway  spruce  may  attain 
a  height  of  150  feet,  but  long  before  this,  at  the 
age  of  about  thirty  years,  it  will  be  advisable 
to  replace  the  trees  since  they  become  open  at 
the  bottom.  There  are  dwarf  varieties  to  be 
had. 

P.  politay  on  account  of  its  slow  growth,  is 
well  adapted  to  use  in  small  gardens. 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  1 93 

Other  hardy  spruces  which  make  a  pleas- 
ing appearance,  are  P.  pungens  and  P.  alba. 
The  latter  endures  heat  and  drought  very  well, 
differing  in  this  respect  from  the  Sitka  spruce 
{P.  Sitchensts),  and  which,  though  very  orna- 
mental, cannot  be  recommended  on  this 
account. 

Another  evergreen,  well  adapted  for  a  wind- 
break, because  of  its  density  and  symmetry, 
is  the  arborvitae  (Thuya  occidentalis),  though 
in  beauty  and  rapidity  of  grow^th  it  is  surpassed 
by  the  Thuya  gigantea.  This  is  not  quite 
hardy  in  the  East,  though  able  to  stand  the 
winter  on  the  Atlantic  Coast  as  far  north  as 
43°  lat.,  in  which  it  agrees  with  the  Siberian 
arborvitae  {Thuya  orientalts).  T.  orientalts 
and  T.  occidentalis  are  readily  distinguished 
by  the  position  of  the  branchlets;  in  the 
former  they  are  arranged  perpendicularly,  but 
less  so  in  T.  occidentalis.  The  latter  tree 
may  become  sixty  feet  high;  the  former  never 
attains  a  height  of  more  than  twenty-five 
feet. 

Though  well  adapted  for  planting  singly  in 


194  WATER-LILIES 

formal  gardens,  the  thuyas  give  more  satis- 
factory results  in  hedges  or  groups. 

For  light,  sandy  and  well-drained  soil,  pines 
form  the  best  windbreaks.  Among  them  the 
Austrian  pine  (Pinus  Laricio,  var.  Austriaca) 
is  especially  recommended  as  it  will  flourish 
under  the  most  adverse  circumstances  and 
survives  in  cities  where  others  die  from  the 
influence  of  smoke.  It  becomes  a  tree  lOO 
feet  high.  The  Swiss  stone  pine  (Pinus 
Cembra),  with  a  very  dense  growth  and  ordi- 
narily attaining  a  height  of  seventy  feet  is 
quite  hardy  and  very  handsome. 

The  Bhotan  pine  (P.  excelsa)  is,  in  a  shelt- 
ered position,  hardy  as  far  north  as  Massa- 
chusetts and  may  attain  a  height  of  150  feet. 
It  is  of  special  value  as  a  windbreak  because  it 
retains  its  lower  branches.  The  drooping 
leaves,  six  to  eight  inches  long,  with  their 
blue-grey  sheen,  make  the  trees  particularly 
attractive,  not  only  when  planted  singly  but 
also  when  grouped. 

The  Korean  pine  (Pmus  Koraiensis),  be- 
cause of  its  slow  growth,  is  recommended  as 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  I95 

a  hardy  pine  for  smaller  gardens.  It  may 
reach  a  height  of  100  feet  ultimately. 

The  mountain  white  pine  (P.  monticola)  is 
hardy  as  far  north  as  Massachusetts  and  may 
become  100  to  150  feet  tall.  It  resembles  the 
common  white  pine.  The  Mountain  pine 
(P.  montand)  with  the  varieties  pumilio  and 
Mughusy  is  a  hardy,  low  shrub,  suited  for 
planting  in  clumps  or  singly.  Pinus  parvtflora 
is  not  only  a  very  handsome  tree,  but  because 
of  its  dense  growth  it  is  also  very  successful  as 
a  windbreak.  It  is  quite  hardy  and  reaches 
a  height  of  about  eighty  feet.  Pinus  Pence  is 
hardy  and  recommends  itself  by  its  regular 
and  dense  habit;  it  is,  however,  of  slow 
growth.  The  white  pine  {Pinus  Strohus) 
is  hardy  far  north  and  a  rapid  grower,  reach- 
ing a  height  of  from  100  to  150  feet.  It  is  a 
great  favourite  because  it  possesses  a  very 
regular  habit  when  young.  There  are  a 
number  of  dwarf  forms. 

The  hemlocks  constitute  quite  another  class. 
They  are  exceedingly  graceful  trees,  not  stiff, 
yet  imposing,  retaining  their  lower  branches. 


196  WATER-LILIES 

They  do  well  almost  anywhere  provided  the 
soil  is  not  too  dry.  Ordinarily  the  native 
common  hemlock  (Tsuga  Canadensis)  is 
used,  singly  or  in  groups.  It  is  also  well 
adapted  to  hedge  purposes,  but  reaches  a 
height  of  about  eighty  feet  if  left  alone.  Taller 
and  more  beautiful,  but  less  hardy,  is  Tsuga 
Mertensiana,  a  species  of  Western  North 
America. 

On  a  moist,  well-drained  soil,  plant  the  firs. 
Foremost  among  them  is  Nordmann's  {Abies 
Nordmanniana),  a  tree  reaching  a  height  of 
150  feet  and  which  is  much  in  demand  on 
account  of  its  hardiness  and  beautiful  foKage, 
dark  green  and  shining  above,  silvery  white 
on  the  lower  surface.  Abies  concolor  takes 
equal  rank  with  this  tree.  It  is  recommended 
especially  for  the  Eastern  States,  not  only  be- 
cause of  its  rapid  growth  and  great  hardiness 
but  also  because  it  suffers  less  from  heat  and 
drought  than  do  the  other  firs. 

Other  desirable  firs  are  A.  Cilicica  and  A. 
Cephalonica  (of  which  the  variety  Apollinis 
is  more   hardy  in   the  North),  A.  homolepis 


Pickerel  weed   {Pontederia  cordata)   at  its  best,  showing  how  well  this  common 
native  looks  in  cultivation.     Flowers  pale  blue.     Needs  checking  occasionally 


Hardy  ferns  as  a  border  for  a  shady  pond.    How  much  better  than  the  hard,  straight 
shore  line  that  is  commonly  allowed  to  show! 

Plate  XXVIIL— THE   EASIEST  MARGIN  PLANTINGS 


Oh    *- 


^  s 


s  s 


o  ^-' 


>    c 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  I()J 

and  A.  Veitchii,  the  latter  two  especially  when 
young. 

Some  of  the  cypresses  may  be  used  for 
hedges,  particularly  the  Monterey  cypress 
{C.  macrocarpa)y  which,  however,  is  not  hardy 
in  the  northeast.  Cupressus  is  closely  re- 
lated to  Chamaecyparis.  The  white  cedar 
(C.  sphcBroided),  is  a  hardy  tree,  reaching  a 
height  of  some  seventy  feet.  C.  obtusa,  a  Jap- 
anese species,  becomes  much  taller  but  is  not  as 
hardy  as  the  Sawara  cypress  or  retinispora 
(C  pisifera).  Of  the  latter  two  species 
variegated  and  dwarf  forms  exist,  all  highly 
ornamental  and  hardy.  Finally  the  various 
forms  of  juniper  may  be  added  to  the  list. 

To  break  the  lines  of  evergreens,  deciduous 
trees  are  planted. 

SHRUBS    FOR    FOREGROUNDS 

As  shrubbery  in  the  foreground,  the  rhodo- 
dendrons claim  first  attention.  Unfortu- 
nately, they  do  not  do  well  in  the  warmer,  in- 
land  regions,   being   best  adapted   to   moist 


IQO  WATER-LILIES 

atmospheres.     Under  similar  conditions  the 
deciduous  azaleas  will  also  grow. 

Other  shrubs  are:  Cotoneaster,  Cratae- 
gus, Daphne,  Kalmia,  Ptelea.  The  red  osier 
dogwood  for  its  red  bark  in  winter,  and  Ilex 
verticillata  for  its  berries  are  desirable,  but  be 
sure  to  plant  both  staminate  and  pistillate 
trees  of  the  latter. 

WHAT    PLANTS    TO    USE 

Just  what  plants  to  use  for  the  immediate 
surroundings  of  the  ponds  depends  somewhat 
on  the  size  of  the  latter.  For  water  gardens 
made  of  barrels,  none  but  low  plants  can  be 
employed.  Around  larger  ponds,  taller  plants 
find  a  place.  For  ponds  of  large  dimensions, 
bold  effects  can  be  aimed  at,  and  indeed  the 
landscape  effect  of  the  surroundings  must 
never  be  lost  sight  of.  Willows,  especially  the 
weeping  willows,  are  most  appropriate  here. 

Everyone  must  be  his  own  judge  as  far  as 
border  planting  is  concerned,  and  the  follow- 
ing  lists    of    plants    (aquatic,  swamp,    and 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  I99 

terrestrial),     include     a     host     from     which 
selections  may  be  made  according  to  fancy: 

HARDY    SWAMP    PLANTS 

Sweet  flag  {Acorus  Calamus)  does  well 
when  planted  along  the  borders  of  ponds.  It 
is  perfectly  hardy  and  has  splendid  yellow 
blossoms.  It  may  be  collected  in  wet  grounds 
and  along  streams  in  the  Eastern  and  Central 
United  States.  It  has  the  disadvantage,  in 
.common  with  all  other  species  of  Calamus, 
of  having  the  leaves  die  at  the  top  after  the 
spring  growth.  This  often  necessitates  cut- 
ting down  the  whole  plant.  It  reaches  a 
height  of  from  three  to  four  feet.  Dwarfer 
are  A.  gramineus  and  A.  gramtneus,  var. 
variegatus. 

Baneberry  {Actcea  alha),  whose  tall  spikes 
of  numerous  white  flowers  show  up  well 
against  the  dark  green  background  of  the 
leaves,  is  a  native  of  North  America  and 
Hke  A.  Japonica  perfectly  hardy.  Its  fruit 
all  summer  is  also  very  effective. 


200  WATER-LILIES 

Unlike  the  bamboo,  the  giant  reed  {Arundo 
Donax)  does  not  make  young  growth  from 
the  lower  portions  of  the  stalks.  Hence, 
though  very  desirable  for  its  bold  effect,  it 
must  always  be  grown  with  other  plants,  to 
hide  the  bareness  of  the  lower  portion  of  the 
plant.     There  exists  a  variegated  form. 

The  brilliant,  red-pink  flower  of  one  of  the 
milkweeds  {Asclepias  incarnata)  offers,  dur- 
ing the  early  summer  months,  a  bright  spot 
among  the  green  of  the  border.  The  plant, 
however,  has  the  disadvantage  of  presenting 
a  miserable  appearance  in  the  latter  part  of 
the  season. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful,  hardy  swamp- 
plants  is  the  flowering  rush  {Butomus  um- 
bellatus).  The  flower  stem  grows  as  high  as 
three  feet  and  bears  pink  flowers.  The  plant 
likes  a  wet  soil. 

The  water  arum  {Calla  palustris)  is  quite 
hardy.  It  is  a  dwarf  calla  with  creeping 
rhizome.  On  account  of  the  similarity  in 
name  it  is  frequently  confused  with  the  marsh 
marigold   {Caltha  palustris),  which,  with  its 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  201 

many  varieties,  will  be  found  quite  satisfactory 
in  wet  places,  especially  on  account  of  the 
brilliant  yellow  flowers.  There  is  a  double 
flowered  variety  (C.  palustris,  var.  flore- 
pleno)  a.  dwarf  form,  also  double  flowered 
(C.  palustris,  var.,  minor  flore-pleno),  and  a 
form  possessing  double  flowers  larger  than  the 
species  (C  palustris,  var.,  monstrosus  fl.pL). 
Other  hardy  species  of  caltha  are  C.  hi  flora  and 
C.  leptosepala. 

There  are  a  number  of  species  of  sedge  of 
ornamental  appearance.  Preferable  are  Carex 
acuta,  var.  alho-variegata  and  C.  gallica,  var. 
variegata.  C.  plantaginea  is  also  to  be  recom- 
mended, as  are  C.  pendula  and  C.  riparta, 
var.  variegata. 

The  button  snake  root  {Cimicifuga  race- 
mosa)  is  a  close  relation  of  the  baneberry  and 
is  very  similar  in  appearance. 

The  water  hemlock  {Cicuta  maculata)  is 
a  hardy  perennial,  a  native  of  the  United 
States,  and  found  everywhere  along  ponds 
and  in  marshy  places.  While  tall  and  grace- 
ful and  requiring  absolutely  no  care,  it  must 


202  WATER-LILIES 

be  remembered  that  it  possesses  poisonous 
properties,  as  does  poison  hemlock  (Coniuni 
maculatum),  but  on  account  of  its  fohage 
which  appears  very  early  in  spring,  it  is 
however  to  be  recommended.  Both  plants 
reach  a  height  of  six  feet  or  more. 

Cyperus  longus  is  a  hardy  and  ornamental 
swamp  plant. 

The  turtle  heads  (Chelone)  are  plants  very 
fond  of  moist  soil  and  possess  white  to  reddish 
flowers,   blooming  in   autumn. 

The  horsetail  rushes  (Equisetum)  are  very 
satisfactory  plants  for  the  vicinity  of  water. 
Their  straight  stems  form  a  great  contrast 
with  the  cotton  grass  (Eriophorum)  a  grass 
whose  tall,,  nodding  plumes,  are  more  than 
graceful.  This  appearance  it  has  in  common 
with  eulalia,  of  which  there  exist  two 
variegated  forms. 

The  Pampas  grass  {Gynerium  argenteum), 
with  its  most  graceful  plumes,  greatly  appre- 
ciates the  neighbourhood  of  water.  This 
plant,  together  with  its  numerous  varieties, 
needs   protection   during  the   winter.     This, 


POND    SURROUNDINGS 


203 


too,  is  required  by  the  Gunneras,  beautiful 
foliage  plants.  Two  species  are  in  cultiva- 
tion, G.  manicata  and  G.  scahra. 

Hibiscus  yields  a  number  of  species  which 
naturally  thrive  under  swamp  conditions  and 
are  absolutely  hardy.  H.  militarise  H.  Mos- 
cheutos  and  H.  palustris  are  the  species  ordin- 
arily grown.  Their  large  flowers,  often  ten 
inches  across,  are  white,  or  pink,  or  white  with 
a  pink  centre.  The  plants  reach  a  height  of 
four  to  six  feet. 

The  different  species  of  day  lily  (Hem- 
erocallis)  do  excellently  under  almost  any 
conditions.  Once  escaped  from  cultivation 
they  manage  to  maintain  themselves  without 
trouble.  The  large  orange  or  yellow  flowers 
are  very  attractive,  especially  from  a  distance. 
There  is  a  variegated  variety  of  i/.  fulva. 

Of  the  numerous  species  of  Iris,  the  Jap- 
anese (/.  Icevigata,  or  /.  Kcempferi  of  the 
trade),  with  numerous  varieties,  is  the  most 
satisfactory.  Unfortunately  these  irises  cease 
blooming  by  the  middle  of  July.  Less  beau- 
tiful but  thoroughly  satisfactory  is  the  Iris 


204  WATER-LILIES 

Pseudacorusy  with  beautiful  yellow  flowers. 
Iris  versicolor,  a  swamp-loving  plant,  with 
large  blue  and  yellow  flowers,  may  also  be 
used.  Iris  Germanica  does  not  do  well  in 
wet  soil,  preferring  a  dry  situation. 

A  large  number  of  rushes  (Juncus)  are 
ordinarily  listed  for  swamp  planting.  Es- 
pecially to  be  recommended  are  J,  Holo- 
schcBuuSy  var.  foliis  variegatis  and  y.  effusus, 
var.  vittatus.  J.  spiralis  has  curiously  twisted 
stems. 

The  cardinal  flower  {Lobelia  cardinalis)  is 
one  of  the  most  eflFective  plants  used  in  the 
border  of  the  pond.  The  tall  spikes,  loaded 
with  brilliant  scarlet  flowers,  are  surpass- 
ingly beautiful.  It  flowers  from  July  to 
September. 

LOW-GROWING    PLANTS 

Among  the  low-growing  plants,  the  lysima- 
chias  are  the  favourites  for  planting  immedi- 
ately adjacent  to  the  water,  especially  the 
moneywort    {L.   Nummular ia)y  which  when 


O    ■' 


c  2 


1>      C7~ 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  205 

once  planted,  soon  runs  over  the  ground  and 
stones.  There  is  a  golden  leaved  variety. 
These  plants  are  grovs^n  entirely  for  foliage 
effect,  but  L.  clethroides  possesses  long 
spikes  of  v^hite  flov^ers  reaching  as  high  as 
three  feet. 

The  common  loosestrife  {Lythrum  Sali- 
caria)  is  a  plant  which,  though  it  will  grow 
under  even  the  most  adverse  conditions,  is 
very  grateful  for  moisture.  It  bears  numer- 
ous tall  spikes  loaded  with  whorls  of  brilliant 
red  flowers.  Different  shades  of  red  are 
possessed  by  its  varieties,  atropurpurea  and 
rosea  superha. 

The  water-mint  {Mentha  aquatica)  is  a 
low-growing  form  which,  like  the  American 
pennyroyal  {Mentha  Pulegium),  does  ex- 
cellently on  low  ground  and  is  to  be  recom- 
mended for  use  on  the  edges  of  ponds. 

In  the  same  class  is  the  forget-me-not 
{Myosotis  palustris),  of  which  there  are  several 
varieties,  such  as  var.  semperflorens,  which 
blooms  throughout  the  summer,  and  a  fasci- 
nated form  which  bears  an  exceedingly  large 


206  WATER-LILIES 

number  of  flowers.     A  large-flowered  variety 
is  var.  Stahiana. 

TENDER   PLANTS    FOR    BORDERS 

For  the  dryer  parts  of  borders  plant 
bamboos,  cannas,  hibiscus,  and  bananas. 
Tender  plants  suitable  for  moist  situations 
are  callas  and  xanthosomas.  The  beautiful 
foliage  of  the  latter,  with  its  violet  sheen, 
is  particularly  attractive.  The  same  is  true 
for  the  foliage  of  the  Calathea  zehrina; 
alocasias  and  colocasias  (to  the  latter  belongs 
the  well-known  elephant's  ear)  are  greatly 
to  be  desired. 

PLANTS    TO   AVOID 

There  are  two  water  plants,  both  hardy, 
which  must  be  warned  against.  The  one 
is  ditch  moss  or  water  weed  {Elodea  Cana- 
densis), which  will  take  possession  of  a  pond 
unless  the  most  rigorous  methods  are  taken 
to  prevent  such  a  contingency.     The   other 


POND    SURROUNDINGS  207 

is  the  water  chesnut  {Trapa  natans).  This 
plant  is  all  right  in  cement  ponds  which  are 
cleaned  out  every  year,  but  its  introduction 
to  natural  ponds  must  be  strongly  advised 
against.  The  plant  produces  numerous  fruits 
which,  during  the  winter  remain  at  the  bottom 
of  the  pond,  germinating  in  spring.  Fre- 
quently it  will  happen  that  in  May  an  entire 
pond  is  covered  with  the  young  plants  which 
choke  out  the  water-lilies.  Though  it  might 
be  supposed  that  if  at  this  time  the  plants  were 
gathered  with  a  dipnet  and  destroyed,  it  would 
tend  to  overcome  the  evil,  this  is  not  so. 
Unfortunately  new  plants  appear  on  the  sur- 
face and  repeated  gathering  of  these  plants 
only  will  overcome  the  trouble.  The  propor- 
tion of  their  cost  to  their  advantage  is  far  too 
great  to  allow  them  to  be  introduced  in 
natural  ponds. 

ADJUNCT  PLANTS   GROWN   FOR  THEIR   LEAVES 

Bear's  breech  Acanthus  sp. 

Baneberry  Actcea  alba 

Red  baneberry  Act<ea  spicata,  var.  rubra 

Hercules'  club  Aralia  spinosa 

Giant  reed  Arundo  Donax 


208 


WATER-LILIES 


Plume  poppy 

Gunnera 

Jointweed 

Rhubarb 
Saxifrage 
Meadow  rue 
Colt's  foot 
Arrow  arum 
False  hellebore 


Bocconia  cordata 

Gunnera  man  teat  a  and  G.  scabra 

Polygonum    Sacchalinense  and  P. 

cuspidatum 
Rheum  sp. 
Saxifraga  peltate 
Thalictrum  sp. 
Tussilago  Farfara 
Peltandra  Fir  gin  tea 
Veratrum  album 


SOME   ACCESSORY   PLANTS    OF   VARIOUS    HEIGHTS 


Less  than  one  foot  high 
Water  arum 
Moneywort 
Water  mint 
American  pennyroyal 
Buckbean 
Forget-me-not 
Orange  milkwort 
Mandrake 

One  to  two  feet  high  : 
Small  flag 
Marsh  marigold 
Golden  seal 
Ground  lily 

Two  to  three  feet  high  : 
Baneberry 
Flowering  rush 
Turtle  head 
Bugbanc 
Day  lily 
Irises 

Loosestrife 
Arrow  arum 
Arrowhead 

Three  to  four  feet  high: 
Sweet  flag 
Variegated  sweet  flag 


Calla  palustris 
Lysimachia  Nummularia 
Mentha  aquatica 
Mentha  Pulegium 
Menyanthes  trifoliata 
Myosotis  palustris 
Polygala  lutea 
Podophyllum  peltatum 

Acorus  gramineus 
C  alt  ha  palustris 
Hydrastis  Canadensis 
Trillium  grandi forum 


Actcea  alba 
Butomus  umbellatus 
Chelone  sp. 
Cimicifuga  racemose 
Hemerocallis  fulva 
Iris  spps. 

Lysimachia  ckthroides 
Peltandra  Virginica 
Sagittaria  sp. 


Acorus  Calamus 

Acorus  Calamus,  Yar.  variegatus 


POND    SURROUNDINGS 


2«9 


Swamp  milkweed 
Horsetail 
Woolly  rush 
Pampas  grass 
Gunnera 
Cardinal  flower 
Eulalia 
Pickerel  weed 

From  five  feet  high  or  more: 
Giant  reed 
Papyrus 

Swamp  rose  mallow 
Purple  loosestrife 
Cat-tails 


Ascleptas  incarnata 
Equisetum  sps. 
Eriophorum  sps. 
Gynerium  argenteutn 
Gunnera  manicata 
Lobelia  cardinalis 
Miscanthus  Sinensis 
Pontederia  cordata 

Arundo  Donax 

Cyperus  Papyrus 

Hibiscus  Moscheutos 

Lythrum  Salicaria 

Typha  latifolia  and  angustifolia 


Water-lilies  for  Special  Purposes 


CHAPTER  XV 
Water-lilies    for  Special  Purposes 

The  following  lists  are  designed  to  help  the 
amateur  in  making  selections  of  varieties  to 
suit  his  own  peculiar  requirements. 

[Editor's  Note  :  No  two  people  will  always 
think  alike,  and,  therefore,  there  may  be  some 
slight  differences  of  opinion  about  the  make-up 
of  some  of  the  following  lists,  but  we  believe 
that  they  may  be  accepted  as  reasonably  true 
for  a  majority  of  cases.  There  is  some  con- 
fusion concerning  the  names  of  a  few  of  the 
water-lilies,  and  possibly  there  are  totally 
distinct  plants  distributed  under  one  name. 
This  is  certainly  the  case  with  N.  pulcherrimay 
a  hybrid  raised  by  Mr.  Tricker  which  is  re- 
corded by  him  as  being  sterile.  Other 
cultivators,  on  the  other  hand,  say  that  this 
water-lily  produces  seed  freely  with  them.  It 
is  known  that  there  are  two,  probably  three, 
213 


214  WATER-LILIES 

distinct  plants  distributed  under  this  title. 
On  the  other  hand,  there  is  the  possibility 
that  hybrids  which  are  sterile  in  one  section 
of  the  country  may,  under  other  and  more 
favourable  conditions,  become  fertile.  These 
are  things  about  which  one  cannot  yet  speak 
positively.  More  particular  details  about 
each  variety  will  be  found  in  the  preceding 
pages.] 

THE    MOST   FLORIFEROUS 

Hardy: 

N.  alba,  var.  candidissima white 

N.  W.  B.  Shaw pink 

AT'.  James  Brydon red 

N.  Laydekeri,  var.  rosea small  pink 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  chromatella yellow 

Tender: 

N.  dentata,  var.  magntfica white  ) 

N.Omar  ana magenta     Y    night  blooming 

N.  rubra,  var.  rosea red  ) 

A'',  favo-virens white    J 

N.  William  Stone blue     [•    day  blooming 

N.Mrs.  C.W.Ward pink    ) 


THE    MOST   DOUBLE 

Hardy: 

N.  tuberosa,  var.  Richardsoni white 

N.  James  Brydon red 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  chromatella yellow 

Tender: 

N  ckntata,  var.  magnifca white    |    ^.^^  j^j^^^j 

N.  Sturtevanttt pmk     )        ^ 

N.  Zanzibariensis blue  ....  day  blooming 


WATER-LILIES  FOR  SPECIAL  PURPOSES    215 


FRAGRANT    FLOWERED    WATER-LILIES 

All  the  tender  day  bloomers 
N.  odorata,  and  varieties 
N.  odorata  rosea  and  hybrids 
N.  tetragona 

THE    BEST   RED    WATER-LILIES 
Tender: 

N.  gracilis,  var.  rubra day  blooming 

N.  Omar  ana magenta  ^ 

N.rubra-rosea largest   red  | 

N.  Columbiana )  )■     night  blooming 

N.  George  Huster  ....     >-   deepest  color     j 
N.Frank  Trelease )  J 

Hardy: 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  ignea deepest  colour 

N.  James  Brydon strongest  plant 

THE    BEST   YELLOW    WATER-LILIES 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  chromatella ) 

N.  odorata,  var.  sulphurea         I    day   blooming 

N.  tetragona,  var.  helvola  J 

THE    BEST    WHITE    WATER-LILIES 
Hardy: 

N.  alba,  var.  candidissima ") 

N,  Gladstoniana  I     day  blooming 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  albida J 

Tender: 

N.  dentata,  var.  grandifora night  blooming 

A^.  favo-virens day  blooming 

THE    BEST    BLUE    WATER-LILIES 
Tender: 

N.  Zanzibariensis ~j 

N.Pennsylvania I    day  blooming 

N.  William  Stone J  ^ 


2l6  WATER-LILIES 


WATER-LILIES    WITH    LARGEST   FLOWERS 
Hardy: 

N.   Gladstoniana white 

N.  William  Doogue pearl 

Tender: 

N.  dentata,  var.  magnifca white  ) 

N.  Omarana magenta  \    night  blooming 

N .  ruhra-rosea red  J 

N.  Zanzibariensis deep  blue  1      ,       .  , 

N.  gigantea light  blue  /    ^"^  ^^°"™'"g 

EARLIEST    BLOOMING    WATER-LILIES 
Hardy: 

N.  alba,  var.  candidissima white 

N.  W.  B.  Shaw pink 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  chromatella yellow 

N.  James  Brydon red 

WATER-LILIES    FOR    WINTER    FLOWERING 


N.  Pennsylvania blue 

N .  Zanzibariensis blue 

N.  William  Stone blue 

N.  Stella  Gurney pink 

N.  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward pink 

N.  dentata white 

N.  Devoniensis red 


day  blooming 
V    night  blooming 


WATER  LILIES-WITH    SMALL   SPREAD   ON  THE   WATER 

Hardy; 

N.  odorata,  var.  minor white 

N.  tetragona white 

N.  tetragona,  var.  helvola yellow 

N.  Laydekeri,  var.  rosea pink 

WATER-LILIES    THAT    SPREAD    SIX    FEET   OR   MORE 

Hardy: 

N.  odorata,  var.  gigantea white 

N.  tuber osa,  and  varieties white  and  pink 

All  tender  kinds  except  A^.  Mexicana  and  N.  elegans 


WATER-LILIES  FOR  SPECIAL  PURPOSES    21/ 

FOR   CUT   FLOWERS 

Hardy: 

N.  odorata white 

N.  odorata,  var.  rosea pink 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  rosea pink 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  chromatella yellow 

N.  W.  B.  Shaw pink 

N.  James  Brydon red 

N.  Rohinsoni red 

Tender: 

N.  rubra,  var.  rosea red  \ 

N.  Omarana magenta  >•    night  blooming 

N.  dentata,  and  varieties white  ) 

N.  Pennsylvania blue  ^ 

JV.  William  Stone blue  1      day  blooming 

N.Mrs.  C.W.Ward pink  | 

N.  Stella  Gurney pink  J 


SIX    RECOMMENDED    FOR    BEGINNERS 

Hardy: 

N.  Gladstoniana white 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  chromatella yellow 

N.  W.  B.  Shaw pink 

Tender: 

N.  dentata white         "I       •  .    . , 

■KT  n  ^      r    night  bloommg 

N.  Omarana magenta    S 

N.  Zanzibariensis blue day  blooming 

WATER-LILIES      THAT      SEED      THEMSELVES,      AND      COME 
TRUE    FROM    SEED 

Hardy: 

N.  odorata  and  varieties white,  etc. 

N.alba ^ 

N.  Candida 1      white 

N.  tetragona [ 

N.  tuberosa J 

N.  Mexicana yellow 


2l8  WATER-LILIES 


Tender: 

N.  carulea blue 

N.  Capensis " 

iV.  Zanzibar ien sis "       \     day  blooming 

N.  elegans " 

N.  favo-virens  {gracilis) white 

N.  dentata " 

N.Lotus " 

Victoria  Cruziana  . .  .  white,  then  red       \    night  blooming 

V.regia " 

Euryale  ferox red 

WATER-LILIES    WHICH    SEED     BUT    LITTLE    AND    CANNOT 
BE    EXPECTED    TO    BREED   TRUE 

Hardy: 

N.  W.  B.  Shaw pink 

N.  Gladstoniana white 

N.  odorata,  var.  Caroliniana pink 

Tender: 

N.  Omarand^ magenta 

N.  Sturtevantii pink 

N.  Kewensis* " 

N.  Deaniana " 

N.  delicatissima pearl 

N.  Frank  Trelease crimson 

N.  Smithiana " 

N.  Jubilee'^ « 

A^^.  Devoniensis red 

N.  rubra,  var.  rosea* " 

*  Mr.  Gurney  says  these  seed  liberally  at  St.  Louis 

WATER-LILIES    THAT   NEVER    PRODUCE    SEED 

Hardy: 

N.  alba,  var.  candidissima 

All  yellows  or  yellow  tinted,  except  AT'.  Mexicana 

All  pinks  or  reds  except  N.  odorata,  var.  rosea,  and  N.  alba,  var.  rubra 

All  Marliac  and  Laydekeri  hybrids 
Tender: 

N.  Pennsylvania blue   ^ 

N.  pulcherrima "        I 

N.  William  Stone "        f 

N.  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward pink   J 


WATER-LILIES  FOR  SPECIAL  PURPOSES    219 

TENDER     WATER-LILIES     WHOSE     MATURE     PLANTS     WILL 
MAKE  WINTER  TUBERS   IN  THE   CELLAR 

N.  favo-virens  {gracilis) ^ 

N.  William  Stone 1        „    .       , , 

N.  Mrs.  C.  W.  Ward \    ^"  ^^'^  bloomers 

N.  elegans J 

WATER-LILIES    FOR   WATER    MORE   THAN  TWO   FEET  DEEP 

Hardy: 

N.  alba,  var.  candidissima white 

N.  odorata,  var.  gigantea « 

N.  tuherosa « 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  albida « 

JV.  Marliacea,  var.  rosea pink 

N.  Marliacea,  var.  carnea " 

WATER-LILIES  FOR  WATER  LESS  THAN   ONE   FOOT  DEEP 

Hardy: 

N.  odorata,  var.  minor white 

N .  tetragona « 

N.  tetragona,  var.  helvola yellow 

N.  Mexicana « 

N.  Laydekeri,  var.  rosea pink 

N.  Laydekeri,  var.  fulgens magenta 

Tender: 

N.  Zanzibariensis blue      ) 

N.William  Stone "        [•    day  blooming 

N.Mrs.  C.W.Ward pink    ) 

All  kinds  will  do  well  in  one  to  two  feet  of  water 


INDEX 


INDEX 


Accessory  plants,  191,  213. 
Acorus,  199. 
Algae,  50,   183. 
Aquatic  grass,  160, 
Aquatics,  choice,  157. 
Arrow-leaf,  169. 
Arundo  Donax,  200. 
Azolla  Caroliniana,   168. 

Barrel  ponds,  3,  6. 
situations  for,  7. 
Baskets,  planting  in,  48. 
Bed  of  pond,  11. 
Beginners'  water-lilies,  217. 
Bladderworts,  165. 
Blue  vitriol  for  algae,  183. 
Blue  water-lilies,  215. 
Bog  garden,  16. 
Bordeaux  mixture,  186. 
Border  plants,  165,  206. 
Boxes  for  planting,  47, 
Brick  and  cement,  21. 

Cabomba,  165. 

Calla  palustris,  200. 
Caltha  palustris,  200. 
Cape  Cod  water-lily,  95. 
Cardinalflower,  17, 169,204. 
Caspary,  Professor,  83. 
Cattail,  168. 


Ceratopteris    thalictroides, 

166. 
Chelone,  202. 
Chinese  water-Hly,  89. 
Cicuta  maculata,  201. 
Cimicifuga  racemosa,  201. 
Clay  puddling,  32. 
Cleaning  the  pond,  35. 
Compost,  48. 
Concrete,  24,  26. 
Construction,  pond,  12,  21. 

cost  of,  23,  26,  30. 
Copper  sulphate,  183. 
Crawfish,  9,  184. 
Cut  flowers,  17,  217. 

Dates  for  planting  out,  41. 
Day-blooming  water-lillies, 

89,  107. 
Depth  of  pond,  13,35. 
Ditch  moss,  206. 
Double  water-lilies,  214. 
Drainage,  176. 
Draining  a  pond,  35. 
Duckweeds,  168. 

Earliest    blooming    water- 

Hlies,  216. 
Egyptian  lotus,  118,  158, 
paper  plant,  160. 


223 


224 


WATER-LILIES 


Eichhomia,  5,  157,  162. 
Elodea  Canadensis,  206. 
Euryale  ferox,  135,  136. 
Evaporation,  loss  by,  15. 

Ferns,  166,  168. 
Floating  moss,  168. 
Floods,  prevention  of,  36. 
Floriferous  water-lilies,  214. 
Flowering  rush,  200. 
Flowers,  young  and  old,  17. 
Foster,  B.  G.,  notes  by,  26. 
Fragrant    flowered    water- 
lilies,  215. 
Fungus  growth,  186 

Garden  in  a  tub,  5. 
Giant  Hly,  113. 

reed,  200. 
Golden  club,  167. 
Gorgon  plant,  135,  136. 
Growing  under  glass,  173. 
Gurney,    James,   84,    142. 

Hardy  swamp  plants,  199. 

water-lilies,  89. 

water-lilies,  key  to,  100. 

water-lilies,wintering,  53. 
Heating  ponds,  175. 
Hedges  for  small  ponds,  191. 
Hibiscus   Moscheutos,    17, 

168. 
Horn  fern,  166. 
Horsetail  rushes,  202. 
Hybridisation,  75. 

Jussieua,  45. 


Kerosene  emulsion,  185. 
Key,  hardy  water-lilies,  100. 

tender  day-bloomers,i2i. 

tender   night-bloomers, 
136. 

Large     spreading     water- 

Hlies,  216. 
Leaf  cutter,  185. 

miner,  185. 
Lemna,  168. 
Limnocharis,  45,  163. 
Lizard's  tail,  167. 
Lotos  group,  the,  136. 
Lotus,  American,  157. 

Egyptian,  118. 

Indian  (see  Nelumbium), 
46,  158. 

night,  II. 
Lysimachia    Nummularia, 

204. 
Lythrum  Salicaria,  205. 

Magenta  water-lilies,    126. 
Maidenhair  fern,  169. 
Mallow,  17,  168. 
Marginal   protection,  win- 
ter, 12. 

treatment,  9. 
Marsh  marigold,  200. 
MarsiUa,  10,  166. 
Meehan,  Thomas,  142. 
Mentha  aquatica,  205. 
Moss,  ditch,  206. 

floating,  168. 
Mould,  28. 
Muskrat,  181. 


INDEX 


225 


Myriophyllum    proserpina- 

coides,  166. 
Natural     ponds,  42. 

springs,  13. 
Nelumbium,  158. 
Nelumbo  lutea,  157,  160. 

nucifera,  158,  160. 

planting  time  for,  46. 

rosea,  159. 
Night-blooming  water-lilies, 

.125-. 

wmtermg,  54. 
Nymphaea  alba,  loi. 

var.    candidissima,    100, 

lOI. 

var.  maxima,  loi. 
var.  plenissima,  loi. 
var.  rubra,  96,  103. 
Amazonum,     117,     132, 

136. 
ampla,     70,     116,     121, 

132. 
Andreana,  103. 
Arc-en-ciel,  103. 
Arethusa,  103. 
Aurora,  98,  103. 
caerulea,    56,    70,    118, 

119,  122. 
Candida,  loi. 
Capensis,  70,  119,  122. 
Caroliniana,  102. 
chrysantha,  103. 
Columbiana,  129,  136. 
Mrs.    C.   W.   Ward,   61, 

no,  116, 122. 
Deaniana,  131,  136. 
delicatissima,  131,  136. 


Nymphaea  dentata,  84,  130, 

136. 

var.  grandiflora,  130. 

var.  magnifica,  130. 

var.  superba,  130. 
Devoniensis,  11,  82,  128, 

136. 
elegans,  70,  117,  122. 
EUisiana,  103. 
exquisita,  92,  96,  102. 
flavo-virens,  54,  61,  in, 

115,  116,  121. 

var.  rubra,  11,  122. 
Frank  Trelease,  84,  127, 

136. 
Froebelii,  103. 
fulgens,  103. 
fulva,  103. 

Geo.  Huster,  129,  136. 
gigantea,    70,    113,    114, 

122,  169. 
Gladstoniana,  93,  loi. 
gloriosa,  102. 
gracilis,  70,  in,  115. 
James  Brydon,  97,  103. 
James  Gurney,  97,  103. 
James  Gurney,  Jr.,  129. 
Jubilee,  131,  136. 
Kewensis,  83,  131,  136, 

Laydekeri,  92. 

var.    lilacea,    102. 

var.  rosea,  91,  102. 

var.  rosea  prolifera,  102. 
purpurata,  97,   103. 
Lotus,  II,  82,  131,  136. 
lucida,  103. 


226 


WATER-LILIES 


Nymphaea  Marliacea,  var., 
albida,  94,  loi. 
var.  carnea,  94,  102. 
var.    chromatella,    92, 

lOI. 

var.  flammea,  102. 

var.  ignea,  102. 

var.  rosea,  95,  102. 

var.  rubra,  103. 
Mexicana,  90,  97,  100. 
odorata,  99,  100,  loi. 

var.  gigantea,  100,  loi. 

var.  Luciana,  102. 

var.  minor,  99,  loi. 

var.  rosea,  99,  102. 

var.  sulphurea,  93,  loi, 
Omarana,  84,  126,  136. 
Pennsylvania,  120,  122. 
pulcherrima,     120,     122, 

213. 
Robinsoni,  76,  98,  103. 
rosacea,  102. 
rubra,  82,  132. 
sanguinea,  97,   103. 
Seignoreti,  98,  103. 
Smithiana,    131,    136. 
Stella  Gurney,  no,  116, 

122. 
stellata,    var.    versicolor, 

112,  122. 
Stuhlmannii,  121. 
Sturtevantii,   11,  62,  84, 

127,  136. 
sulphurea,  121. 

var.    grandiflora,    loi. 
thermalis,  131. 
tuberosa,  99,  100,  loi. 


Nymphaea   tuberosa,   var., 

Richardsonii,  loi. 

var.  rosea,  102. 

var.  rubra,  85. 

var.  superba,  102. 
versicolor,  70. 
Wm.  Doogue,  95,  102. 
Wm.  Falconer,  97,  103. 
Wm.  Stone,  61,  no,  116, 

122. 
tetragona,   89,    loi. 

var.   helvola,  90,   100. 
Zanzibariensis,    70,    84, 

108,  122. 

var.  azurea,  no,  122. 

var.  rosea,  no,  122. 

Orontium  aquaticum,  167. 
Outline  of  pond,  34. 
in  relation  to  size,  8. 

Papyrus  antiquorum,   160. 
Parrot's   feather,    166. 
Pickerel-weed,    167. 
Pink  water-Ulies,  1 12. 
Planting,  boxes  for,  47. 

in  baskets,  48. 

in  concrete  ponds,  44. 

in  natural  ponds,  42. 

out,  dates,  41. 

out,  methods  of,  42. 

time  for,  41,  46,  177. 
Plants,  wintering,  61. 
Pond  bed,  n. 

cleaning,  35. 

concrete,  24,  26. 

construction,  12,  21. 


INDEX 


227 


Pond  bed,  depth  of,  13,  35. 

draining,  35,  176. 

heating,  175. 

Gudines  of,  8,  34. 

two  feet  square,  3. 
Pontederia  cordata,  167. 
Propagation,  forcing,  59. 

methods,  59,  60. 
Protection  for  winter,  53. 

from  wind,  191. 

of  margins,  12. 
Puddling,  clay,  32. 

Red  and  yellow  blends  in 
water-lilies,  97. 
water-lilies,  96,  128,  215. 
Repairs  to  ponds,  35. 


Sagittaria  latifolia,  169. 
Salvinia,  168. 
Saururus  cernuus,  167. 
Scum,  50. 
Seed  development,  67. 

growing  from,  61. 

mixing,  how  to  prevent, 
68. 

ripening,  68. 

time  to  sow,  69. 
SeedUngs,      curious      facts 
about,  119. 

how  to  plant,  43. 

transplanting,  70. 
Sides  of  pond,  slope  of,  21. 
Sium  cicutaefolium,  45. 
Small  spreading  water-liUes, 
216. 


Snails,  186. 
Snapping  turtle,  182. 
Soil,  48. 

Sorting  tubers,  57. 
Springs,  13. 
Sturtevant,  E.  D.,  159. 
Submerged    plants,    164. 
Sunfish,  183. 
Swedish  water-lily,  96. 

Temperature,  of  water,  62, 

145- 
Tender   day-bloomers,   70, 

day-blooming  water-lilies, 
io7._ 

wintering,   54. 

water-lilies,  to  make  win- 
ter tubers  of,  219. 
ThaHa  divaricata,  161. 
Transplanting,  58. 

seedlings,  70. 
Trapa  natans,  187,  207. 
Tricker,  W.,   12,  83. 
Tub  garden,  5. 
Typha,  168. 

Utricularia,  165. 

Victoria,  133,  136,  141,178. 
Cruziana,  37,  136,  143. 
regia,  136,  143,  149. 

Walks,  177. 
Water  arum,  200. 

chestnut,  187,  207. 

clover,  10. 


228 


WATER-LILIES 


Water,  depth,  13,  35. 

gardens,  situations  for,  3. 

hemlock,  201. 

hyacinth,  5,  157,  162. 

level,  in  tanks,  63. 

loss  by  evaporation,  15. 

poppy,  45>  163- 

supply  for  ponds,  22, 176. 

temperature,  62,    145. 
Water-lilies,  blue,  215. 

day-blooming,  89,  107. 

for    beginners,    217. 

for  cut  flowers,  217. 

for  deep  water,  219. 

for  shallow  water,  219. 

night-blooming,  125. 

pink,  112. 

red,  96,  128,  215. 

small    spreading,   216. 

that  never  produce  seed, 
218. 


Water-lilies  that  seed   but 
little,  218. 
that  seed  themselves,  21 7. 
under  glass,  173. 
white,  215. 

winter  flowering,  216. 
with      largest      flowers, 

216. 
yellow,  97,  121,  213. 
White  water-lilies,  215. 
Windbreaks,     191. 
Winter     flowering     water- 
hlies,  216. 
protection,  53. 

of  margins,  12. 
quarters,  55. 
Wintering,  61. 

Yellow  water-lilies,  97,  215. 

Zanzibar  water-lily,  io8» 


